Fitting & weight fluctuations

[gem]

I'm wondering if anyone else is like me, and fluctuates in weight (and size) throughout the year. How do you manage fitting, particularly when Renaissance-era garb is *so* close-fitting? Multiple sets in different sizes? Adjustable garb?

My problem is that the first place I gain weight is always the bust, so that measurement might go up a whole dress size... but the rest of me stays pretty much the same. And since the bust size more or less determines the fit of the whole gown...? Do you find that just changing how big the lacing gap is is sufficient? Or is there a particular place where the lacing is more useful for adjusting fit (like side-back lacing vs back lacing, or something)?

Right now I'm about 5-6 lbs heavier than I normally am at Fair season, and because I'm pretty smallish to begin with, that's enough to throw off the fit of everything in my closet. I have time right now and am ready to sew, but I'm not sure how to go about fine-tuning the fit, knowing (or hoping) I could go down a full size by September. But I don't think trying to guess my fall size and making it smaller automatically is a wise choice, either.

I am thinking of using the Simplicity corset pattern (the one I made last year) and adapting it for the bodice of a kirtle. But I think that the size I made last year (12, which fit perfectly at the time, but which is likely a little snug now) might be too small this year. I was thinking I might cut a size larger overall, and transfer the back lacing to the side-back seams. But I'm not sure if that will fit nicely, or be way too big.  Obviously I'll do mockups, but I'm looking to see if anyone has brilliant tricks or tips for planning for minor adjustablilty in garb.

I'd really like something I'll be able to wear, no matter what my weight (well, within reason, obviously!).

Gramercy!

[LadyElizabeth]

I'm medium sized or so and all my bodices lace up in the back.  I just make sure to have a large privacy panel back there to allow for adjustements.  I can fit in the same garb with a change of 20 lbs!  The gap will go from fully closed to about 4 or 5 inches separating it.  No biggie though with back lacing bodices, no one ever can tell the difference or comment about it.

[operafantomet]

I'm wondering if anyone else is like me, and fluctuates in weight (and size) throughout the year. How do you manage fitting, particularly when Renaissance-era garb is *so* close-fitting? Multiple sets in different sizes? Adjustable garb?

My problem is that the first place I gain weight is always the bust, so that measurement might go up a whole dress size... but the rest of me stays pretty much the same. And since the bust size more or less determines the fit of the whole gown...? Do you find that just changing how big the lacing gap is is sufficient? Or is there a particular place where the lacing is more useful for adjusting fit (like side-back lacing vs back lacing, or something)?

Oh, tell me about it! Every time I finish a new project it fits very well, but if I try it on some months later you'll be sure it's either too loose, too tight, shoulder straps wrong etc. My body seems to change all the time. Annoying!

I don't remember if you have it already, but a side-laced dress makes size adjusting very easy. Reason is that it is spiral laced, which means you can adjust the bodice both at the top and at the bottom. From most views the lacing will be hidden by your arm/sleeve too, which means that a small gap either up or down (or all the way) won't matter that much. It also seems to have been of less importance historically to lace it all tight:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/ghirlandaio1486e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/vasari1559.jpg

Front-laced dresses in Venetian style is also highly adjustable - though you can't expand it more in the bottom than on top, as a V shape is the goal. But the actual V shape seems to have been both narrow and wide, as seen in these dresses:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/baliademedici1540s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese156070.jpg

Especially for expanding the bodices over the bust these methods/constructions are useful. Though I'm sure there are other ways too!

[Valencia]

My weight fluctuated ONCE, it doesn't seem to be going back down. : /  I'm afraid to try on my french gown, I'm hoping I can still get into it.  I am in the process of making an Italian gown that will be more forgiving of the extra pounds.

[FortuneRose]

Gem its so strange you posted this... I was about to post about this very thing (and I had actually hoped YOU had the answer, cause I know you struggle with going up and down too)

Most of my stuff is SO tiny and then when I got pregnant I had stuff made to accomodate that, then had two bodices which fit just after having my son...  but two years later, I am EVEN bigger (slowly going back down now) but have nothing that fits properly and I don't want to make anything that will fit me only right now seeing as the weight is finally coming off.  It took TWO YEARS to finally be diagnosed with hypothyroidism which is why I could never lose the baby weight and also now having what my doctor is calling borderline diabetes...so the combo of meds are FINALLY balancing things out and I am dropping sizes...but...don't know where I will wind up in the end...so...eh...this will be a no garb year unless some brilliant ideas pop forth.   

[sealion]

This is the main reason that I haven't made anything new since last spring! I've only gained ten pounds but it's all in the chest. I recently got fitted for some new modern bras and have gone up to an H cup! But I don't really want to put the effort into making things to fit my new body because I have finally been "officially" diagnosed with fibromylagia and found medication to alleviate the constant pain so that I am getting out more and more active and losing weight.

[gem]

I'm going to come back and re-read the responses and give a more on-topic response... but I had a moment of clarity today, and remembered that I have a handful of mundane projects I really wanted to do this year, and I think I will work on those while I'm working on dropping a couple pounds here... and save the garb for closer to Fair season. I really just feel like sewing (which is really rare for me!!), and I bought all this stash to learn to sew knits back around New Year's, and never got around to it.  But now that I'm off work for a few weeks (finished a book, don't start a new one for a bit), I am going to try tackling some of those projects.

I'm wanting to make a couple of knit jackets from this pattern (well, I couldn't find the pattern on the McCall website, but here's the image. I have some pewter grey velour and turquoise/purple/silver trim):

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

In the last 10 years, my weight hasn't fluctuated all much. My garb tends to still fit well.

But fluctuations can be that time of the month, what foods causes water retention, taking in too much salt, not drinking enough water, not getting enough exercise, too big of portions, medications, etc.

Back lacing bodices with Modesty panels are a godsend when those fluctuations do occur.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I've started back at Weight Watchers to try and shed the two stone I gained again, so my latest corset effort (18th C stays!) are being made a leeeetle on the small side so they can close up round me as I go down.  Shed 3.5lbs this week.  Onwards and downwards!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I have been a little lax lately myself, Kate. The Cataract surgery I had a few weeks ago, I had some Steroid medication shot directly into the eye cavity to control inflamation, there was some water weight gain that I need to get off before mid May when we go to Janesville and Chiipewa Falls Ren Faires.

It's always something.