Margo Anderson sizing question/problem

[gem]

I've posted this to Margo's Yahoo list, but I thought I'd also post it here, because if I'm online posting to the forum, I don't have to actually go *sew* something.   Hee!

Anyway, I have all of the Margo Anderson patterns, but one of the things that's held me back from starting them is that I am confused about what size/s to use for bodices/smocks/etc.

Here's the problem. The critical measurements for tops are the front-across-shoulders and the bust. According to the diagram (which I can't find online), front-across-shoulders means from the bony point of one shoulder, across the front, to the bony point of the other shoulder.  I've had this measurement taken three times, by people who know what they're doing, and they *all* come up with 12.5"

... Which is so small as to be off the sizing chart. A size 2 is 13.75"!

I can tell you right now I'm not a size 0. LOL  My bust measurement is 37, my waist 28, hips 38. Those measurements would put me in a 10 or a 12.

Last summer I made the freebie partlet pattern, and I made the 12, based on comparing the shoulder seam to a fitted mundane shirt. It fits *perfectly* around the neck, but it's a trifle wide in the shoulders (peeks out from beneath my corset straps).

If this were a mundane pattern, I'd probably go by my high-bust measurement, which is 33"--but that's only a Margo size 4! I think that would still be too small.

I understand her instructions on merging two pattern sizes--I've used them before, and they work great--but before you do that you need to know which sizes to start with!

Can anyone give me a starting place? Or other advice? I know there are several of you on the boards (Lady K of O, Lady Rosalind, et al) who've made these patterns several times for different people, so I'm hoping to appeal to your expertise!

Gramercy!!

[Lady Rosalind]

The good thing about smocks is that you can pretty much take in any extra when you gather the bust or neck (depending which version you make). If you are making the low-necked smock, make a paper mock-up of the neckline to determine which size to use, then just use the pattern size needed for your bust size. Gather any extra into as needed.

Another thing to double-check would be the sleeve length. Both times I've made the high necked smock, I've ended up with sleeves shorter than I'd like, even with adding an extra 2 inches to sleeves on the second one.

Have fun!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Because Margo's clothing patterns are designed with the wearing of a corset, I often ask a client to be measured wearing one's corset over a t-shirt, braless. That gives me a better idea as to what size to use for the bodice. Making a muslin does help as well. That way, everything hits where it is supposed to hit and the measurements for Bust, Midriff, Waist, across the back, Back Neck to Waist, Bust Height, Bust Length are as accurate as possible. If no corset, using the measuring tape in a T-shirt, braless for a snug, yet comfortable fit.

I also request, if a client has a farthingale, to get the skirt lengths wearing a farthingale. That aids me in determining the proper finished skirt lengths while allowing for a 2" hem.

[act2redux]

...you're taking this measurment from the bony point that your arm hangs from???  (...admitteddly, I'm fatter than you are...but even as a guess, mine would end somewhere in the land of 17 - 18 inches..  ) ..and its from one side all the way over to the other??

I guess what I'd do in that situation is start with one that eyeballs slightly larger than where you believe yourself to be and do a cheap muslin mock up...even if you have to start over cuz the alterations are too drastic to work  you'd know.

[sealion]

I haven't used Margo's pattern for smocks so I can't answer that question. (I've used the Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator.)
You will definitely want to use your corseted measurements to determine your bodice size since larger breasts compress more. We share some of the same body issues though I am larger than you overall. My shoulder measurement is 14", my uncorseted bust measurement is 45-46" while my compressed corseted bust is 40", my uncorseted waist measurement is 33.5" while my corseted waist is 36". When I made the bodice you see in my avatar I cut the back neckline and shoulders at size 12*, smoothed the armseye from the size 12 to size 16 to match my bust measurement, then drew a line from size 16 out to the size 20 waist measurement for the side and side-back seams. The bodice wasn't too difficult but I had to redo the side seams on my corset several times before it fit right because the average woman only gets about 2" of bust compression.
(*My shoulder measurement suggests smaller than 12 but that is what I used because it was the smallest on the 12-20 pattern I was using. It worked by fiddling with the attachment points of the straps to get the edges of the straps in the right spot.)

[gem]

Thanks.

And Cindy gets an award for giving me the most responsive reply to my question!  The people on the Yahoo list could only say, "Follow the fitting advice given in the patterns."  But I don't have a *fitting* question, I have a SIZE question! I understand that it's confusing; I'm confused, too!

I think I'll just go ahead and start with the 12 and take Lady Rosalind's advice to add extra sleeve length. Happily, I just bought an entire bolt of Tru-Grid, so I can trace out the patterns on something drapable!