Back Fitting Problems

[LadyStitch]

I'm going to post this here and ask for some constructive advice instead of being told I'm stupid for not noticing it in the first place.  ::grumble grumble::

I have an actress that we found AFTER I had made her a very fitted pleather barbarian outfit  that she had a shoulder that was 1/4" higher than the other, an hip that was 1/4" higher, and that she had a shoulder blade that stuck out an inch farther than the other.  I've worked with very bony actresses before and seeing slightly protruding shoulder blades is nothing new.  But after I had her bend forward to check to see how much slack I needed on a decorative trim that was going from her collar to her low back top I noticed something wrong.  Her back didn't arch right. Turns out she had scoliosis.  Wish I had known that 4 weeks ago when we went over the question "Do you have any medical conditions we need to be aware of ?"  But regardless I didn't catch it , My goof, but a goof that I could fix with darts and other finagling. It was not a big issue.  Yes, I was a little irked but mostly upset with myself that I didn't catch it.  (She still said she is going to buy me a bottle of wine to say she is sorry for being a difficult fit, and a thank you for how much she loves the dress. But that is besides the point.)

What is the point is that going forward what can I do to make sure that I take this into account when working with other people?
So far I have :
1) Add Scoliosis to one of my list of possible medical conditions to ask about in my Actor/client profile
2) When I do fit some one with the condition I need to make two back pattern pieces and alter them to fit each side to account for the different changes.

What should I look for when I am measuring my people? (Due to privacy issues I'm not allowed to measure people in their skivvy's.  I have to measure the girls in in a Cammi and biker short, and the boys in biker shorts and a T-shirt.  Not ideal but workable)

For all the custom work I do I have never had a professional fitting class. I have just learned from books, and trial and error. I am looking for constructive advise.  Thanks.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Measuring over close fitting items like this shouldn't be a problem as any minor excesses can be taken out at the fitting.  Scoliosis can still be disguised by this, so yes, do ask.  And a shoulder that is only 1/4" higher probably won't show until the fitting anyway...  The protruding shoulderblade can only be deslt with by fitting and then making separate back pattern pieces, or a custom single where there is no center back seam.

When I have to send out measurement charts to be filled in, I also send a diagram of how and where to take the measurements and ask about the following:

One shoulder higher?  Which one?
Shoulders of different slopes?
Protruding stomach? Protruding breastbone?
Protruding shoulder blades
Bra cup size
One hip higher than the other?
One leg shorter than the other?
Any surgery that has caused differences?

Always ask which side of the body the differences are.  After they have gone through all this, THEN there is the 'any other figure anomalies?' question.

I usually walk right round the customer and look for anomalies and note them down before I start measuring.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Lady Stitch!!

With a Chiropractor for a daughter, she is quick to spot Scoliosis.

When measuring as you do, asking someonme if they have had problems with their backs is appropriate to assure proper fit to stage costumes..

I notice that a lot when fitting clients for Alterations. When raising shoulders on dresses because the front droops, I can tell if one has a shoulder that droops. Same with the hips.

[LadyStitch]

Thank you for the advice.  When I asked the question elsewhere I was told I was stupid and since I sew professionally I "should know better".  I'm sorry but no matter your level sometimes you are thrown a curve ball that you don't expect.  Live and learn. /sigh

Kate: I'll add the questions you gave onto my profile for my actors. I already do Protruding stomach and bra cup size but the other's would be good to add as well.

Again thank you for help.   

[gem]

Thank you for the advice.  When I asked the question elsewhere I was told I was stupid and since I sew professionally I "should know better". 

Gee, that's helpful.   

I think Kate's questionnaire is brilliant, and I want to say that IIRC, the book Fit For Real People addresses this issue (what to do when one shoulder/hip/breast/whatever is smaller/higher/slopier/etc than the other). I know for sure they address a woman with a serious dowager's hump from osteoporosis, and I want to say they also fit a woman with one breast substantially smaller than the other.

[LadyStitch]

Yeah those other people were "Most helpful." 

Everytime I go to get the book at the local book store they sell out before I get there.  I just keep forgetting to order it when I have some spare cash.  I was also told that "Fast Fit" was another one I should look into getting. I need to work on my 'wrinkle reading'.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I use the list as a kind of mental checklist when I'm measuring the customers.  If they DO have a problem, I warn them that they will need extra fittings to allow the best fit.

Sometimes, when I'm entering all the measurements into the computer, it tells me that I need to check a measurement because it might be wrong.  For some reason it doesn't believe in G bra cup fittings!   

I start with a symmetrical pattern and cut extra wide seam allowances, and fit from there.  Sometimes all you need is something like an extra slim shoulder pad added too one side to make a jacket hang properly.  Sometimes you need a whole different pattern piece on one side.  Sometimes you have to compromise and disguise the figure problem rather than fit to it because fitting to well emphasizes the problem.  You learn which is most appropriate to which persona and which garment as you go.

My shoulders LOOK perfectly even.  Measuring with a tape reveals no anomalies.  I KNOW they are different as some garments persist in falling off my left shoulder!  In cases like this, a Strap Trap (http://www.straptrap.co.uk/) is the best solution.

[LadyStitch]

I've only had one actress who balked at doing fittings.  And she called me at home during an intermission wanting to know why her dress wouldn't fit her right.  The previous night she had complained so much about her costume - a halter top dress- that she demanded a rebuild on her dress.  Thankfully I had more than enough fabric to redo her bodice.  So I did it with princess seams so that if I needed to take it in I could.  When I returned with it she just took it from me and ran.  She felt she didn't need me to check the fittings, and she was backed up the director.  I told her be it on her head because she didn't want to do fittings.  Then I got the call.  I went over to the theater after the show.  I MADE HER do a fitting after the show.  (She wanted to just hand me the dress and tell me to fix it.  That was NOT going to happen.)  She griped the whole time, but it took 5 minutes. 4 darts later and it fit like a glove.  I returned again the next night with the dress. No more problems.  Since then the actress has not worked at our theater.

I have started puting something simular to the strap trap in some of my dresses.  The actresses love them.  I also have started putting bra band straps in the backs of the low back dresses.  Just a couple loops of  elastic to run the band through.  The actresses have said they love it. They feel more secure that way.