Skirt question?

[PrincessSara]

I've been looking at skirt patterns and I have a question - why is the top edge curved if the skirt is being attached to a straight-edged bodice?

Like this:

[LadySeasan]

I honest don't know, but whenever I have used patterns, I just pinned it to the bodice moving along the curve

btw-what pattern is this?

[Jessi]

I don't know the answer, but I always assumed it was so the skirt would hang properly. If the top was cut straight across wouldn't you have a scalloped egde bottom?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

This may have to do more with knife pleating, thus having less bulk at the waistline.

[operafantomet]

I don't know the answer, but I always assumed it was so the skirt would hang properly. If the top was cut straight across wouldn't you have a scalloped egde bottom?

Yes, that's pretty much the effect. I've tried both ways, and the curves in the waist don't appear curved when sewn together, while an all straight one have extra fabric I need to trim down.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I don't know the answer, but I always assumed it was so the skirt would hang properly. If the top was cut straight across wouldn't you have a scalloped egde bottom?

Indeed you would.  Measure that pattern from a straight line to the hem and from the curved waist to the hem.  On the curved one the panel is the same length in the middle.  On the straight top, it's longer in the middle, leading to wonky and scalloped hemlines.

[Jessi]

YEAH!! What do I win??

[Kate XXXXXX]

Cyber pins!

[gem]

Wow!!!  I thought this to account for a contoured waistband (my favorite skirt pattern has curved tops like that). 

So... you're saying I should recut the tops of my skirt panels I just cut straight so I could cartridge pleat the top?!

[PrincessSara]

Indeed you would.  Measure that pattern from a straight line to the hem and from the curved waist to the hem.  On the curved one the panel is the same length in the middle.  On the straight top, it's longer in the middle, leading to wonky and scalloped hemlines.

Even if I was cutting the pattern with a straight hem at first, then cutting the hem to length later?

[Kate XXXXXX]

If you are cutting the skirt in gores, as in the diagram, cut a curved top at the waist.  If you are cutting in straight sided oblong panels rather than flared gores, cut the top straight.

[Dayna]

I don't know why, but if the bottom is curved, the top needs to be curved.  To this day I cannot explain why when you sew gores together the bottom isn't scalloped, everytime I do it I am sure that it won't work, yet everytime, I get a lovely smooth bottom.  How does it work??  I don't know, it's a mystery.

[Kate XXXXXX]

The curved sections form part of a circle.

[PrincessSara]

Ok, second skirt question: this pattern creates 8 skirt panels, and since I'm assuming it's on 45 inch wide fabric and that the pattern is to scale, the panels would be around 42 inches wide at the bottom.  Does that sound right, or do you think the pattern is not drawn to scale?

And, um, third skirt question:  I'm using this pattern as a basic for a lower middle class persona - kirtle and gown.  I was thinking I'd make the kirtle skirt out of 4 gored panels and 1 straight panel (in the back for extra fullness), and then the gown with a bit of a fuller skirt.  My natural waist to floor measurement is 39 inches and my waist is 37 inches.  What proportions should I use for the skirt pattern pieces, for a 5 panel and 6 panel skirt?  I have no sense of measurement and proportions - I always over or underestimate everything. 

Many thanks and cyber-cookies!

[Dayna]

Kate,

Thanks, I know the explanation, I know that it works, I simply can't get my head around WHY it works :-)

[Kate XXXXXX]

Like me and money, then...   

[Dayna]

Money, I Know how that works. 

[Tink]

I think my money's magic- it keeps disappearing *doh!*

[Kate XXXXXX]

Mine's Fairy Gold: turns to dead leaves when I look at it! 

[gem]

I am bumping this thread up with dramatic photographic evidence of why you need that curve at the top of the panels! Because if you DON'T have it, you get this:



See that curved wrinkle/draped effect in the middle of the skirt? Not understanding why the curve was there, I cut the tops of the gored panels flat b/c I intended to cartridge pleat them. But when I went to drape the skirt, I got that weird pull/wrinkle. I took that photo to my sewing studio tonight, and the instructor and I puzzled over the wrinkle, positing various theories, until she said, "And the top of the skirt was straight across like that?" DING DING DING!!

I'm still not sure WHY it works, but for those of you like me who need to see things to understand them, here you go.

[ArielCallista]

the simple answer is that people are round...lol...

[Rani Zemirah]

I am bumping this thread up with dramatic photographic evidence of why you need that curve at the top of the panels! Because if you DON'T have it, you get this:



See that curved wrinkle/draped effect in the middle of the skirt? Not understanding why the curve was there, I cut the tops of the gored panels flat b/c I intended to cartridge pleat them. But when I went to drape the skirt, I got that weird pull/wrinkle. I took that photo to my sewing studio tonight, and the instructor and I puzzled over the wrinkle, positing various theories, until she said, "And the top of the skirt was straight across like that?" DING DING DING!!

I'm still not sure WHY it works, but for those of you like me who need to see things to understand them, here you go.

But... I think that drape is kind of... beautiful.  In fact, with a matching bustle on the back and a bit of a draped sash there in front it would make a lovely bit of Steampunk!  Particularly with a nicely fitted Eton jacket over it!!!  Ohhhh, the possibilities!