Draft-to-your-measurements smock/chemise pattern?

[gem]

I'm trying to make a high-necked smock, and I'm having trouble with the pattern/s I've been using, because my shoulders are very slight, but the rest of me, not so much. I keep having way too much width in the shoulders, causing the shoulder seams to drop... but not enough width in the bust to get the thing over my head.

I'm wondering if I'd have better luck drafting my own (which is pretty much what I'm ending up doing anyway!). Can anyone recommend an online tutorial?

I know I've seen draft-to-your-measurement instructions for low-necked smocks, but I need the extra material in the bodice to gather into the collar (the fullness and gathering are key to the look of the project). Could I use one of the Italian tutorials, do you think? I really just need something that will help me reconcile wildly different shoulder and bust sizes.

Gramercy!!

[Kate XXXXXX]

Have you tried this one:  http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_shirt.htm

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I am not so fussy. I use the Alter years Pattern for Nobleman/Noblewomen wobbles  and Chemises.

I will eventually use the Margo Anderson pattern as well.

[gem]

Thanks for that, Kate! I've printed it out and if this current mockup fails, I'll try one of these methods.

I've also found two more sets of draft-to-your-measurements instructions, using the search terms "Elizabethan shirt pattern:"

Red Dawn's (non-H/A) version

Grace Gamble's .pdf instructions

One thing that's actually appealing about Red Dawn's version is that she shows how to gather the extra width *along the shoulder,* so that it's not all bunched up in the collar (which I was advised against by the folks on Margo Anderson's list).

[Kate XXXXXX]

The other thing you can do is cheat.  Cut it flared so you get the extra you need in the body without having too much in the neck.

[Cilean]

Gem,

After you finish this Smock? I could send you what I am working on for a class, would you like it?

Cilean

[Genievea Brookstone]

A little late but I found this the other day
here on the Elizabethan Costume page.