Need some tips/ direction for first garb sewing project

[JJames]

My wife and I have decided to look into possibly sewing her first garb vs. buying (well she does the sewing, lol). She purchased a pattern, I included a link below, she certainly does not want to attempt anything to complex, being this is her first project...  I was hoping that maybe some of you could give a few tips; being this is new to her. She does have a Singer sewing machine, its about 4-5 years old. She does a little sewing here and there, but never has really tackled a project like this. From what research i've found, the bodice may be the trickiest part of the garb? Our thought was even if she could do the layered dresses and chemise that would still help out even if we had to purchase a bodice. Unless it is suggested on here otherwise, I believe we are going to go and look for fabric this weekend. We've found pictures to reference the colors she likes, does it matter were we get the fabric from? i.e. hobby lobby, wal-mart, etc? Is there certain types to avoid, or that may be too challenging for a beginner to try and work with? Of course and as always, any suggestions/input ideas are always appreciated. Thanks much.

http://www.ecrater.com/p/5042514/simplicity-renaissance-costume-pattern-5582-womens

James

[Bonny Pearl]

I am a beginner myself in the art of sewing.  It looks as if the outfit on the pattern package is made of cotton broadcloth.  I do know the pattern package will suggest material types to use for the pattern.  If it is cotton, then yes that is very easy to work with!  It's the only fabric I have used so far in my practice/mundane projects.

The skirt pieces look like you should have good success with.  I'm not skilled enough for a top yet so can't say.  As far as a bodice, wow, I am clueless on those as far as sewing, boning, etc.


Have fun and post pics of progress! 

[Higgins]

Do stick to natural fiber fabrics (ie. cotton, wool etc.) These will breath, plastic will not. Simplicity tends to run a little large on thier pattern sizes. As for where to get fabric there is a nice list of on-line stores available here but I know I like to actually see and feel what I am buying so just look for something you like and at a good price. I have learned so much from the many talented people here. If you run into a problem just post it up and sombody will chime in to help. Good luck!

[gem]

I buy a LOT of my fabric from Hobby Lobby. I especially like their cotton broadcloth for skirts like the one in your pattern, and that's also where I buy most of my canvas (for lining/backing bodices).

I agree with Higgins on the issue of bodice sizing. Before your wife cuts out her good fabric, have her tissue-fit the pattern to herself, or cut a test version from inexpensive muslin. A bodice should be SNUG. If it's too loose, it will be uncomfortable (she may need to go down one or two sizes from what the pattern suggests). The chemise and skirts will be more forgiving, size-wise.

I make reversible bodices out of sturdy fabrics--usually one side an upholstery fabric (like this), and the other side in corduroy (see here.) It makes a nicely versatile piece, since you essentially get two different looks. Check the remnant bins for discounted pieces of upholstery fabric (you'll need just about 1 yard). Sometimes you can find great stuff there!

There are SEVERAL very good threads on this board on bodice construction; I will see if I can hunt them down for you.

Good luck!

[isabelladangelo]

The bodice is the most confusing part, mostly because of the directions and the way they have design them.  Honestly, the more "advanced" looking patterns tend to have far more simpler bodice patterns (and probably more correct if you want to go that route).  

My suggest is this: Cut two sizes small than the pattern says you should cut.   As Higgins pointed out, they do run large.   You want the bodice to be "uplifting".   Cut the pattern out of cotton lining, cotton canvas, and whatever you like for the facing (outside) fabric.   Sew up the front pieces to make two "front" pieces, but don't sew the layers together yet.   Sew the front pieces of the cotton lining to the back piece of the cotton lining.  Do the same for the cotton canvas and the facing (ie, don't sew the layers yet, just sew the like materials).   Once you have a the pieces sewn in each of the fabrics, minus sewing the sides (never sew the underarm seam, that comes last!) put the canvas sewn piece on a flat surface.  Cover it with the cotton lining piece facing up and then put the facing piece upside down (meaning the facing piece is facing the lining piece.   The lining piece is sandwiched between the facing piece and the canvas.  Basically, you should see the "wrong" side of the facing piece.)   I like to pin all three layers together at the shoulders, under arms, and any "corners" so they will all be nice together.  

Sew the "crescent" part of what will be the arm hole but not the sides.   Sew the front from the "point" in the front, up the front, around the neckline, and back down again.   Take out your pins.  

Now, from the back piece, pull the front piece through the shoulder straps to turn it right side out.   This may take a bit and can be tough if you make the shoulder straps too narrow.  

Once you do that, you can sew up the side seams by putting the right sides of the facing fabric together -sewing only them- and then putting the right sides of the lining together -sewing them and the canvas facing-.  You sort of do this in one step even though it sounds like two.   It's hard to explain without pictures!    

You should have something that looks like a bodice now.   For the front, sew one straight line maybe about a 1/4" in on either side for a piece of boning.   You might want to sew another couple of lines on the other side of where you want to put the eyelets.   Remember, stick the boning in before you close the bottom with bias tape or turn it and whip-stitch it!

I hope that helps a bit.   I know it probably is still confusing since I can't post pictures of each step right now.   It really does get easier as you create bodices more often.

For a skirt, really, you don't need a pattern.  Get a little over 4 yards of fabric.  Cut of about 4" of the fabric, widthwise, for a waist band.   Pleat the rest of the fabric to the waistband and sew up the seam.  You have a skirt!

[ArielCallista]

I'm throwing this out there just in case...as a beginner do not try to use knit fabrics or anything with too much stretch to it. first off its way not HA, even those who don't care about HA will usually suggest against it because it strecthes as you sew which makes weird things happen if you arent experienced with it. Also a bodice won't fit right with stretchy fabrics.

As for difficulty, chemises and skirts are so much easier because they are simple shapes and fitting is very easy because they are supposed to have lots of extra space in them. Bodices are meant to FIT your shape completely. If she wants one thats going to support the girls its gonna take some extra work. you'll definitely want to do a mock up, to make sure it will fit. Basically just make it out of muslin and make any fitting adjustments on those pieces to figure out the exact size pieces you'll need.

There's no right or wrong answer whether you should buy or make a bodice. If theres one out there thats perfect, color fit everything. you might as well buy it. but with making it you can make it exactly what you want.

[Tammy]

I have that pattern. The skirt was a good two sizes too big, but with a drawstring waist, that didn't bother me (just means some friends can borrow it). The construction of the skirt was SO easy!!
The blouse (we call it a chemise on board) was easy, and also a bit big.
I didn't make the vest (bodice), as I have a bodice already.

Cotton broadcloth is inexpensive, and wonderful for a skirt!! Hobby Lobby is my FAVORITE store!!!!

[Marietta Graziella]

Of course you should try to sew this!   You won't ever learn if you don't dive in.   

I'm a novice sewer.  Sewed my first bodice (very not H/A) when I lived in North Dakota and didn't have anyone telling me how easy or difficult it was so there was no fear (the ultimate cripppler!).   It's just fabric.  Go for it! 

Don't buy that $60 per yard silk for this project.  Stick to the cotton broadcloths and keep it simple.  Your first garb isn't going to be a masterpiece but you'll feel fantastic wearing it because YOU made it!

[DonaCatalina]

The lining might be the trickiest part of the bodice. A tootal of 3 layers of cotton broadcloth will help give her the smoth front look with support for the puppies.
If there is a shoe repair nearby (Messina Shoe?) then she can have them put the lacing grommets in and save her hands.
I couldn't sew a sticth until I started making garb. Good luck with your new addiction. LOL

[operafantomet]

Apart from all the good advices given so far, I would suggest online tutorials for specific parts.

For example, the pattern you linked to use contrasting bias tape on all bodices. Look up an online tutorial, like this YouTube instruction video: http://angrychicken.typepad.com/angry_chicken/2008/03/bias-tape-tutor.html

I think you can find tutorials, either in write-ups or video form, for most techniques and elements. And some of them are extremely helpful, especially when people have step-by-step pictures.

Also, and I can not stress this enough: for each seam you sew, you should press it. I read somewhere that when making a garb, half the time should be spend ironing. It might seem unnecessary, but if you press each seam you will manipulate the fabric into the shape you want it to have, and this in turn will help the next seam come out better. I only recently started doing this, and I definitely see the value of it. Especially for bodices and garbs with lots of seams. With skirts and garbs with long, straight seams I'm still a bit lazy...

[gem]

Also, and I can not stress this enough: for each seam you sew, you should press it. I read somewhere that when making a garb, half the time should be spend ironing.

Anea, that's a great tip! In fact, the Simplicity Simply the Best Sewing book actually has a chapter called "Sewing with Your Iron."  I actually know some sewers who only use their irons for sewing!

[Kate XXXXXX]

All good advice.  I'll just add that a good basic sewing guide will help a great deal with many things.  I like the Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing, and the Dorling Kindersly one with the same name.

[JJames]

Thank you all for replies! My wife and I found it your information very helpful! We managed to purchase most of the faberics this weekned, if it turns out, I will certainly post some pictures, thanks again!

[JJames]

Okay, so my wife completed the skirt part of the project. And it turned out pretty well, lol, so the project called for a piece of "ribbon" for the tie at the waste line... She is not satisfied w/ the ribbon she got, seems too thin and will likely break if pulled on too hard. Any suggestions on a specific ribbon best for this application,or something totally different. Thanks!

[Valencia]

I ran into the same problem with the ribbon, so I used a thin corded rope sewn to the garment. You can usually find it in the ribbon / lace section of fabric stores. Ultimately, I switched to using waistbands that overlap at the waist, and attach with a button or hook and eye, I felt like that would hold better.

[gem]

My favorite material for drawstrings is cotton twill tape, which is what a lot of commercial pants drawstrings are made of. It can be hard to find the all cotton stuff; it's NOT the flat-packaged Wright's twill tape, which is polyester and not good for anything, from what I can tell. I recently found it on rolls/spools at one of our local JoAnn's (you buy the whole spool for about $3), but before that I bought it from ebay.  Or scavenged it from Milord's pj bottoms. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

Polyestr ribbon is really quite strong, but if I want something fine but less slippery than standard poly satin ribbon for things like corset lacing, but more decorative than actual corset lacing, I use narrow grosgrain ribbon.