Good Doublet Pattern

[LadyStitch]

Many of you know I made matching out fits for the "Flamingo brothers.- Jean-Paul and Tristan." AKA my husband and his best friend.  My DH, known at scarby as The Pink Pirate, aproached me with another challange. (I should learn by now that when he get's that twinkle in his eye I'm in trouble.)   The other Flamingo brother doesn't care for Pirate coats, but would look dashing in a nice doublet.  I'm thinking of making him a doublet from simular fabric and trims to the Pink Pirate's coat.   The only thing is I'm on the hunt for a good doublet pattern.  Big 3 is fine, since I'm not going for historically accurate, but I still want one that will look nice.  So, any suggestions?

[CenturiesSewing]

I am looking over the current Big 3 doublet pattens and they all leave a lot to be desired.

So I'm going to suggest the Mcalls civil war pattern, http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493

I don't have the pattern and have no used it but looking at the flats it will make a good starting point.

It will need to be fitted, but then any of the offered doublet patterns would need that too. Yay for mockups!
But what it has going for it is the side back seams which will give another place to take things in rather then just the side seams.

View A, just leave off the coat skirts, raise the height of the standing collar, drop the front of the waist line into a point and add tabs or what have you around your waist and armhole.

[LadyShadow]

I used Simplicity 4059 http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-costumes.aspx pattern to make my husbands doublet.  I liked the outcome of it.  This is what it looked like finished...

[gem]

Every doublet I've seen made from Simplicity 4059 (esp view B, the shorter one) has looked *really* sharp. There's an entire Royal guard on cast at KCRF outfitted in it, and several forum members have made it, as well. If I ever make one for Milord, it will be from that pattern.  (And bonus: it also appears to have the side-back seams Centuries mentioned.)

[Gauwyn of Bracknell]

Could that be made small enough for a average sized 10 year old?

[Butch]

I've used the Simplicity 4059.  Pretty straightforward.  I don't like the lack of collar.

I also have used the Reconstructing History Elizabethan Sea Dogs.  I made two from this pattern, and must say that I prefer it.  Although, please note that the RH pattern runs small.

[LadyStitch]

Thanks, that is what I wanted to know. It is hard to find good pattern reviews by garb makers.   I thought this would be the best place to ask.

[LadySeasan]

simplicity 4059, i love it

and this is coming from someone who HATES patterns lol

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

This is a Doublet pattern that has been my main go to for Doublets I have done for the Earl and others over the years...http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FF03 From Fantasty Fashions. I need to order this one agaon. The one I have is 9 years old and getting ratty.

This pattern can be tweaked for many designs and sizes. I redrafted this pattern on paper grocery Bags for two Doublets for Toki Bloodaxe. The most recent in the Royal Blue velveteen.

I did the same thing for the sleeves.

[Lady Rebecca]

When one of my friends wanted me to make him some garb, he brought me Simplicity 5574, which is now out of print. This is the pattern: http://betsyvintage.com/images/medium/simv5574_MED.jpg
and this is how it turned out:

[LadyStitch]

We decided on 4059. The Pink Pirate approved of it.  He is already plotting what to do with it for his Flamingo. 

Simplicity 5574  is useful, but I really don't care for it.  I've made 5+ from it but there is something about the loops that make the front closure that just don't work right.  Everytime I have made it they don't come out correctly.  Several bad reviews out there on it.

[Goody]

Could that be made small enough for a average sized 10 year old?

Absolutely! I made a size small for my 5 year old Godson knowing he'd grow into it. I left it long but could have shortened it at waist for a better fit. This will be his third yr wearing it and still has plenty of grow room! Tried to find a pic to link but no good ones. Will keep looking tho.

[gem]

I've used the Simplicity 4059.  Pretty straightforward.  I don't like the lack of collar.

Oh, very good point! I hadn't noticed that. But it should be pretty easy to add a basic stand collar (and if I think something's easy, it has to be dead simple.  )

[Lady Caroline]

 I also wanted to add that I love this pattern!  Had no problems with it, and turned out wonderful

[Kate XXXXXX]

The neck looks as if it is cut rather wide.  If you are adding a collar, you'll need to take this into account and cut it closer...

[Sorcha]

I have made that pattern as well.
DH actually wanted it EXACTLY like in the photo.  So that's what I made.  Same fabric and all.
You can see it here in my DD:
http://coamrey.livejournal.com/1004.html#cutid1
I did not add a collar and I think it looks okay with a high necked chemise.  I think there's a photo with a shot of the neck area too.

[DragonWing]

Glad to hear this pattern works well. I am doing two doublets, long and short, from it. Well frankly I am doing all the pieces. Two full sets.

gaadsss...I've got to get busy. (runs off to plot my sewing)

[DragonWing]

Sorcha, thank you for posting your project as it progressed that will help me a lot.

[Cilean]

I am still going to give you Margo's Patterns for Gentlemen.  Because it has a boatload of information and suggestions and so you can follow these because they don't speak "Sewingese" and they do speak basic English. 
www.margospatterns.com


It is an all in one type of thing and you can use it all of the time!

Cilean

[Butch]

Hmmm, I'll probably need to make the leap over to her patterns someday.

[LadyStitch]

The 50 buck price tag is one I'm still having trouble swallowing but considering all you get with it, and it is HA.... it isn't THAT bad.

[gem]

...And considering how often you in particular are apt to use a pattern, it does cushion the blow somewhat. Make the doublet 5 times--in wildly different sizes--and it's almost a bargain.

[Cilean]

I iron the iron on interlining and my pieces are around since the first shipment of the Patterns and some of my patterns I had from way back before Margo I also have them when they came out from the big 3 and they are some of them anyway almost 18 years old.

I have my Margo's in Binders that I keep all of the groupings together.  They do have such useful information, and no they are more H/A than others.

Cilean

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The Margo Anderson pattern packages are a good deal if they are going to be used a lot. The Instruction booklet that comes with the pattern is worth the money spent!