Bodice Boning novice!!!

[gem]

I've made McCall's 4107, but if you're looking to make something with really great boning, it wouldn't be my first choice. The princess seams distort the fit so that the bodice curves over the bust. A "properly" boned Ren bodice does the exact opposite--squishing and lifting the bust.  Lorraine one posted fabulous comparison pix of a bodice with princess seams vs one without, and I'll see if I can find those for you.

ETA: Ok, this thread has Lorraine's pictures of two similar bodices--one from McCall's 4107 with princess seams and featherweight boning, and one from an Alter Years pattern with no princess seams and spring steel boning. The difference is dramatic.  (And this other thread is another good resource for all things bodice. Four fabulous pages of information!)

You've mentioned you're confused about the whole bodice/corset thing.  You first need to decide what it is you want/need.

A corset is UNDERWEAR. Heavily boned, meant to give the proper silhouette under a gown. There are lots of variations, but this is a good example:



See all those closely-spaced parallel boning channels?  They're there to give the ideal, flat-front/conical Elizabethan shape, and you probably won't need one unless you're also planning to make a full gown ensemble.

A bodice is OUTERWEAR, and when we talk Renfaire bodices, we usually mean something that isn't always necessarily historically accurate. I *think* this is probably what you want, since it's sort of the quintessential woman's garb for Fair. Worn with a chemise and peasant skirts, it will give you the fun wench look.



They typically have a little less boning than a corset, and are often designed to flatter (not flatten!) your assets.  

This is actually a decent pattern (Simplicity 5582) because it lacks the princess seams and darts that a lot of the commercial bodice patterns have. IIRC, this is the bodice pattern used in Baroness Doune's link I posted earlier.

Now, the construction of bodices and corsets is pretty similar, and corsets don't have to be made out of plain fabrics. I made one from some gorgeous damask linen, and it's so pretty that I *do* wear it as outerwear (scandal!). I actually really like that pattern--it went together relatively easily and it fits beautifully. It's http://Simplicity 2621, and you can see from the pattern photo that she's clearly in her underwear. The pattern calls for a busk (a wide strip of wood down the center front to give the flattest shape possible), but I didn't use one--just boned the whole thing with cable ties.

My bodices, OTOH, are made from a pattern copied off a well-fitting bodice I had bought at Fair but that had worn out.

My suggestion is to look at lots of pictures before you run out and buy a pattern/fabric. Get an idea of what you want and then buy the materials to match. OR buy any pattern and follow the instructions and don't second-guess yourself.

Good luck!!

[operafantomet]

Great post, Gem!

[Valencia]

Great post, Gem!

No kidding! That was great information, Gem!

[gem]

(blush)    Gramercy!

[Cilean]

Okay, so I knew a girl who would use old saw blades as boning, it was free and she would make sure the blades were dull, and I used to use the ties that HD would hold the wood for transfer.  Again cheap and easy.

So with this said I do have steel boning from this store and Lacis, however Lacis is not carrying from what I can see    Grannd Garb had lovely things as well but they are sadly out of business.
http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMShome.html

Also there is Richard the Thread:
www.richardthethread.com

Cilean

[Valencia]

I live in Los Angeles, and just found Richard the Thread.  I drove down yesterday, the manager is SO nice. I bought busks and boning, and felt up all the fabrics. The only bad thing is the boning has to be bought by the dozen for each size, which I don't mind, and if an order is place online, it has a minimum of $35 (easy enough to do with busks!) I haven't had a chance to go through the catalog yet, but they have GREAT stuff.

[Cori]

I thought this might be a good thread to ask my question. I'm new garbing and to sewing so I might be be in over my head. 

I like the look of a bodice without the lacing in the front however (for the most part) I won't have help for lacing up the back.  I have seen a few photos where the lacing is only on the side but a) is this completely non-h/a  b) would this be appropriate for upper middle class and  c) would I place the boning similar to the above posting by Gem?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.