Three finishing detail questions (pleats, skirt openings, and lacing)

[gem]

These are sort of different questions, but I didn't want to add three different posts for something so short!

1. How do you finish off those last cartridge pleats at the very beginning/end of the row? I've been sewing a narrow hem on the opening edges, but it won't lie properly to make an entire pleat, and it looks a little, erm, half-@ssed. How does everyone else do it?

2. I know we've talked about this before, but how do you hide/handle the skirt opening in a front-closing gown (where the bodice & skirt are attached), so there's no embarrassing gap for your chemise to peek through?

3. How do you tie off the ends of spiral lacing? Right now, in my mockup, I have one end of the lace tied around the bottom hole, but I presume I'll want to sew that down to the inside? But I'm not sure how you tie off the lace at the top. A short length of lace sewn in, to tie it to, maybe? Any other suggestions?

Gramercy!!

[CenturiesSewing]

"How do you finish off those last cartridge pleats at the very beginning/end of the row?"
Do you mean at the ends of the waistband where the skirt eventually goes down into a seam? If I find I have extra I either make a smaller pleat to use up the excess even if it isn't a full sized one. If the skirt has a lining I might unpick the upper section until the seam of the skirt starts and then fold the extra fabric in and then slip stitch it shut. Of I might just make a wide hem and leave some of the extra fabric sticking out to make a self placket.


How do you hide/handle the skirt opening in a front-closing gown?
Front closing gown but the skirt isn't split all the way down? Working Class, Apron, Upper middle, really really nice lace edged apron, or just pin is shut with a straight pin.


How do you tie off the ends of spiral lacing
Tudor tailor shows a large knot in the ends of the cord? but I always tie mine off. To start at the lacing I tie it to the bodice through the eyelet, and then just turn the knot in toward me. I lace up it up and then to finish it off, I go back through the top eyelets again and then loop the lacing around itself but I don't pull it tight I then make a slip knot in/through? that looped lacing and then tuck in the loop and excess lacing into the bodice.

I hope that made sense, I'm away from my garb at the moment other wise I'd take some photos or a video to show it.

[ladyharrogate]

1.  I may not do the 100% accurate way but I stitch the top of my cartridge pleats down and on each end I leave a few inches unpleated and sew it to my band at the same level as the top of the cartridge pleats.  I like the 4-6 inches over my tummy to be flat as opposed to sticking out like cartridge pleats do. 

2.  what kind of front closing do you mean?  In an irish dress where it laces in front and splits all the way down I wear a skirt underneath.  For my court gowns I started cutting the overskirt so it lays in the upside down V but you can also pin or use ties to hold it in place

3.  I have problems with this one myself and would love to hear what others have to say.  I like to do a loop knot with ladder or spiral lacing but my daughters usually help me dress and a nine and ten year old aren't always the best at loop knots.