advice for a newbie sewer

[LadyCatharine]

Planning on making a nobles skirt with an overskirt.

Going to be  a major project., any ideas appreciated..also which pattern are good?

Gramercy!

LC

[operafantomet]

I have no advices on patterns etc. But some general sewing tips, from my own history of trying and failing!

*How historical accurate do you want it?
Decide on this before making the dress/outfit. This way you can choose your sources more carefully, if you want it to be H/A, and it will also influence the choice of fabrics, colours etc. Good books to check out are anything by Janet Arnold, especially her "Patterns of Fashion" books and her "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd". Another good source is Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costumes for Stage and Screen". If you're into Italian, "Moda a Firenze" is fantastic.

*Choose good fabrics
Yeah, what does that mean? Well. Some synthetic fabrics will be all over the place when sewing, no matter how well it's pinned down. They're slippery and vile! Some will also be unbearably hot when worn, especially for chemises, as they don't breathe. This doesn't go for ALL synthetics, though. I think you'll get a general idea when feeling them. Most will tell you to go for natural fibres. In general I agree, but I've used some lovely cotton/poly mixed brocades for projects, and they've been wonderful. Also, if you're making an underskirt or similar, synthetics might be as good as natural fibres. It depends on the quality. Also, let the fabric have some "body", it should be a tad heavy. Too lightweight fabrics usually aren't up to the task. A money-saving advice is to check out upholstery fabrics, bed linens, brocaded curtains etc. Often you'll get many yards for a fairly cheap price, compared to buying by the yard. And the textures are usually good.

*Think layers
Just like today, women wore multiple layers, depending on weather, fashion and whatnot.

Next to the body they wore a washable chemise. It was usually made of linen, which takes up a lot of moist. Most of the linens you get today are coarser, and might need multiple washes before you can wear them. Many stick to cotton, which I think is a good alternative. but choose a natural fiber for your chemise. Depending on the style, the next layer would sometimes be a corset (certain areas didn't adapt it before the late 16th century, some even later). In period they were called stays, and contrary to Victorian corsets, they weren't pinching the waist to make an hourglass figure. Instead they narrowed the whole torso, pushing the bust upwards, giving the torso a cone shape. On top of that they wore one or multiple underskirt, sometimes stiffened all around (farthingale), sometimes with a stiffened hem (Italian), sometimes "plain". In some dresses they were meant to be seen and hence decorated.

The bumroll also depends on the fashion and time period chosen, but it would go over or under the stiffened underskirt (people disagree on this, maybe they did both in period clothing as well).

This would give your dress the right fundament. But once in the dress, remember the small details: head covering of some sort, socks, shoes, jewellery, belt, that kind of stuff. Period portraits will give you lots of ideas on this!

Boning the bodice?
Most period sources tells that the bodice was stiffened in one way or another. Various methods were used; whalebones, linen cardboard, felt padding, multiple layers... The benefit of stiffening the bodice is that the dress will keep it's shape after some wear. Sometimes it'll also mean you don't need a corset (Italian). The two main methods are: 1. using a double layer of lining, and sew straight seams that'll create channels. This is where you insert the boning, be it rigilene, metal boning, thicker cords or real whalebone, 2. using layers of fabric, sometimes padded, sometimes reinforced with linen cardboard, cut in the same shape as the rest of the bodice.

Here's link to two ways of stiffening bodices; one being hemp cording, the other being padding and layers:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/FLSOTTANA_mid1550s_Guilia_Medici.html

Which brings me to my last advice: Check what others have done. Both costume diaries, websites and this forum is full of good info on how others have done it. Some includes patterns and diagrams too.

It's a start... And I'm sure there'll come lots of good advices on patterns and the actual sewing process!

[Lady Kett]

As another newbie sewer, I will share what we have learned thus far from the wonderful sewers on this forum. We haven't tried making nobles garb yet, so I really don't have any thoughts on patterns or materials or anything like that, just some things we've learned that a more experiened sewer probably doesn't need to think twice about. I sew with my husband and it is completely a joint project requiring both of us, so when I say "we", I'm not using the royal "we"!

A mock up is invaluable. We got a bolt of el cheapo muslin to use for mockups. Helps us figure out what the heck the instructions in the pattern are attempting to tell us, when the lingo used may as well be a foreign language. Side note: we use a contrasting color of thread on a mockup. I actually like to use two different colors (one for top thread and one for bobbin thread), and use long stitches. That way I can see what is supposed to go where. Plus it's easier to pick out when you mess it up! Don't forget to change your thread and stitch length when you work on your "real" fabric!

Try your mockup on at various stages. Helps to see if something is wonky or too large or too small. Keep notes of such size adjustments. We have a tailor's pencil and a ruler handy to mark the fabric appropriately. We have managed to extend 1 half of a pattern but not the other. This usually results in a cocktail break and a good laugh.

Depending on your fabric, if you can't tell right-side from wrong-side, pin a new safety pin to it before you toss it in the wash. Of course you have to remember your own "system" for what the safety pin is telling you. Toss the pin when done, as they will rust. Maybe not on wash #2 but they WILL rust eventually and Murphy's Law says it will be on the fabric, or piece thereof, least suitable for working around it.

We also write the pattern piece # and a "W" (for "Wrong" side) as well as the pattern marks. I am easily confused. It's best not to let me take chances on what I'm sewing where. I have been known to royally screw that up when given command of the sewing machine.

Interfacing is a tool of the devil. However, we now have an appreciation for sewn in interfacing and have now vowed to avoid at all costs, iron on/in interfacing. Several people have mentioned using a layer of canvas duck in lieu of interfacing. Haven't tried that yet.

You really can pre-wash any fabric even if it says dry clean only. There's at least 1 post on that topic here (started by me). There may be another but search-fu couldn't find one, which is why I started one.

You will iron a lot. After the fabric is out of the wash, and then after practically every seam. And even to prep some seams. It's a pain in the tushie, especially as I make a pouty face at my trusty Sidekick to have him to the ironing, but it is a valuable step.

If your pattern has a new stitch it wants you to do, use your scraps and practice a bit. This also works great with contrasting thread so you can see what the stitch is attempting to do.

Be sure to use needles appropriate to the type/thickness of your fabric. The people at the fabric store who hang around the sewing machines generally have a clue. Our sewing machine manual actually has a pretty good chart of needle type to fabric.

Good luck! And don't be intimidated. Our motto is that no piece of paper (pattern) is going to out-smart us. At least not for long. And everyone here is wonderfully helpful so if/when you get stuck, I am firmly convinced someone here can help!

[Merlin the Elder]

hehheh...Ladies and Lords...rather that refer to yourselves as "sewers," I might suggest "tailor" and "seamstress."  The term "sewer" just kind of...well...stinks... 

[Lady Kett]

Sorry, it's shorter I babble enough online to make it even longer LOL.

[Dustin]

hehheh...Ladies and Lords...rather that refer to yourselves as "sewers," I might suggest "tailor" and "seamstress."  The term "sewer" just kind of...well...stinks... 

I'll admit the first time I saw the thread title, I thought of the sewer under the street where the Ninja Turtles live.

[LadyCatharine]

opera, thank thee M'Lady!

went to jo anne's on sunday, perusing brocade drapery fabric
If I we, start soon, mayhaps it will be  complete by years end.

By all means breathable fabric..

comments and suggestions appreciate.

[Cilean]

Planning on making a nobles skirt with an overskirt. Going to be  a major project., any ideas appreciated..also which pattern are good?
Gramercy! LC

Welcome to the Madness!!!

So the first thing I am going to ask you to do is Research, in Google Images please check out Elizabethan Gowns, Renaissance Gowns and 16th Century Gowns, then regular Google type in the same, as well as Elizabethan Portaits, also 16th Century Portraits. Also, take the time to check out other people's faire pictures for the royals.  Save all you love in your Inspiration Folder. Find a sewing partner! It is always good so you can fit each other and work towards goals.

Also, I am not one to suggest the Simplicity/Butterick/McCalls patterns, to me people are too cookie cutter with these they tend to follow them too much and well I can tell which pattern was used for which gown. 

Margo Anderson Patterns
MArgos patterns are some of the best on the market, it gives you a lot of versitility and loads of information. All done in basic language not sewingese. While a little more expensive, I think they are a very good value.
www.margospatterns.com

Tudor Tailor

If you have not picked up this book? I suggest you do so! It is such a find and really will help you pick out good fabrics, and well hints on what really went on during the Tudor Life style.  The ladies of Tudor Tailor also have patterns.
www.tudortailor.com

Reconstructing History
Kass McGann has some really great pieces, and some really awesome embroidery samples to use.
www.Reconstructinghistory.com

Good Luck
Can't wait to see what you will do!

Cilean