Sewing suede binding--tips?

[gem]

Gimli is almost ready to be bound! Huzzah! 

I will be binding all the edges with (genuine) suede binding (by machine). I have a leather needle. Is there anything else I need to know? The tunic is one layer of wool flannel and one layer of med. weight linen/cotton, and the suede binding is 1.25" wide with glued seams.

For reference, here's the real costume:



I'm talking about the binding at the edges/hem.

Gramercy!

[LadyStitch]

Do everything in your power to make sure that the binding doesn't slip because once you poke a hole in it, it is there forever. 

I wish I had the email from my friend in NZ.  She might be able to ask her friend in Weta costumeing. 

Good Luck

[gem]

Hmmm. I wonder if I should glue it in place (I have a quilter's basting glue stick around here somewhere)....

[Kate XXXXXX]

Use a longer than normal stitch, and a roller foot.

[ArielCallista]

Roller foot?

[Auryn]

if you have some of that hemming tape (like double sided tape use to hold the bias tape to the garment) - I think thats what its called- I would definitely use that to hold the suede in the correct place, and then sew it on,
because like LadyStitch said- once you make the hole- there is no taking it back.

I would try to stay away from the hemming glue for 2 reasons- it can gum up the needle/thread faster
sometimes glues that work fine on fabrics can seep or stain suede to the point where it comes through. Suede is porous and fibrous so things can get messier easier.

[LadyStitch]

Roller foot?

It is as it sounds.  It is a foot that has rollars on it.  It allows the fabric to move under the foot much smoother.  When doing leather or pleather you either use a rollar foot, tissue paper, or a teflon foot to allow for easier movement under the presser foot.  I wouldnt' use a lubicant because the repair guy I talked to said even the sillicon based stuff can gumm up the interior workings pretty good.

[gem]

I have a Teflon foot that I'd forgotten about, so thanks for that!

[Kate XXXXXX]

The roller foot for your machine is not expensive.  It works better on leather and suede and vinyl than the teflon foot.  BTDT...

[gem]

Yes, but the Teflon foot is here. The roller foot could tack the suede down and sew it in place by itself, and it still wouldn't matter, 'cause I don't have one. Ha!

Would the walking foot aid in this case? I'm guessing not, since either it would grab the fabric, not the binding, or leave poky little tooth marks in the suede?

Auryn, do you mean the iron-on seam tape? I use a lot of that, but I've never tried it on binding. I'm *assuming* you can iron suede, carefully (?). I'm getting ready to test-fit the binding, to see how much I have left over to practice with. I have 12 yards, and it has to go all the way around the tunic + armholes. Which I just realized I forgot to sew. Ha!

[CenturiesSewing]

Gem I don't think a walking foot would leave holes in the suede but it would leave a faint mark on it, rather like when you sew velvet with it.

Also yes you can iron suede and leather, I'd use a press cloth just in case if you use a high heat. If you need a crisp line in the leather at a bend or turn you can give it a few light wacks with a rubber mallet.

[DragonWing]

  I think they covered it.  When I sewed leather I made sure to go slow as well.   Sometimes I hand turning the needle up and down. So take it slow.

[gem]

Ok, so I did a test swatch, and things look promising. I used masking tape to hold the binding down as I sewed, which worked brilliantly! Of course, how the full-size version is going to behave is another story entirely, but so far so good!

[Auryn]

gem
be really really really careful with masking tape on leather.
Did you put it on the "good" side of the suede that will show??
If you did I suggest you don't do it anymore.
I used regular old scotch tape on the back of leather pieces that I was making a corset with (to see if I like the grain and color combinations)- I figured itd be no big deal since it barely holds paper together it wouldnt ruin leather- well  its stuck like super glue- pulled out tons of fibers from the suede side of the leather when I tried to remove it.

[gem]

There's a suede-y (right) side and a smooth leathery (wrong) side, and it's going on the leathery bit, which then gets turned round to the back. On the back, where it doesn't matter much, it is stuck to the suede.  Anyway, it's masking tape, which is meant to peel off without damaging the surface it's stuck to (like a wall you're painting). I've been using small pieces and peeling them off straightaway, so I think I'm OK.