How fussy are you about fit?

[gem]

I think most of us are probably interested in getting the best fit possible in our garb, starting with the proper undergarments, etc, etc. But Lady Stitch's recent thread, plus some sightings at Fair the last two weeks, make me wonder if I'm obsessing a little too much. Is there a point where you go, "Ok! This could be better if I kept tweaking for six months, but it's pretty and wearable, so I'm calling it good."

Most of you know that I work really hard at achieving the perfect fit for my hard-to-fit self (Catherine has teased me about my endless mockups!), and have abandoned several projects that I couldn't get to fit the way I wanted them to. But at the last couple fairs I've been to, I've seen cast members in gorgeous gowns that look absolutely beautiful on them... but which have little gaps in the bodice neckline or whatnot, which I would have considered unacceptable in my OWN garb. And I wish I could find the link again, but last week I stumbled onto a recreation of Raphael's Unicorn gown, where the costumer had put tiny tucks in the neckline of the bodice to make it fit more closely to her chest--and then covered them up with guards! It was sheer genius, and yet it still seemed a little bit like cheating. I feel like I should be able to get a perfect fit on a bodice and not have to resort to something like that... but on the other hand, I'd love to have the courage to do it!

Last year I got so fed up with a project (Promenade kirtle, for those who remember) that I cast it aside and decided I would make something out of a pattern, and wear it whether it fit 100% perfectly or not. And that's how I made my pink damask corset. It has issues (the straps are way too long, for one thing), but I'm d@mn proud of that thing and wear it happily. Right now I'm trying to decide whether I should go ahead with my curved front kirtle as is, or tweak the fit some more. Sigh.

So. For the rest of you, where do you draw the line?

[LadyFae]

I am most definately NOT a perfectionist when it comes to my garb fit.  Perhaps I would be if I haf more experience, knowledge and time- but I don't.  I am definately in the "wear as is and tweak her and there" group!  =)

[LadyStitch]

Sometimes you just have to say, "Ah fudge it and go on."  Trim can hide a multitude of sins.  99% of what I make I make for theater.  Am I picky about fit?  Oh yes.  I have seen WAY to many bad fitting garments on our stage to let serious stuff slip, BUT  I also know that sometimes you just got to go with it. 

A year ago a photographer told me to "Stop it!"  I was panicking over the little things.  I mean I was having a freak out that the CB seam on a doublet I made for a guy was 1/2" inch out of perfectly hitting his waist.  Never mind that I had made this pattern from scratch and they guy looked "darn" good in it, but I was obsessing over the little things. Soon as I started telling myself to take care of what you can and do your best.  My stuff started looking a lot better.  I wasn't making stupid goofs because of  late nights trying to make something "perfect".  If someone notices that a trim is 1/4"  from perfect from 6 feet away, then god bless them, otherwise would it really matter.

All in all if something is shouting at me that it doesn't look right, then by gosh I'll fix it.  If it is just poking at me then I can usually just say "Nothing is perfect, but it is 'darn' close"  and keep going.  Granted I think this answers my question on the other topic.  I'll just do it, and if something is STILL gaping, then we will just get creative! 

[Artemisia]

You calling me fussy? Anal retentive perfectionist is more like it. I'm so obsessed with fit that I make a new duct tape dummy every year.  I never throw away ugly "oh what possessed me to buy that" fabric because it makes great mock-up fabric and is cheaper than buying more cotton muslin. You know my orange florentine? I'm still upset that I think I ended up cutting the bodice a couple inches too high.

I've made a few Truly Victorian corsets in different sizes and still cannot come up with a corset size that fits correctly. I can't wait to make my newest dressform so I can custom design my own corset. Yeah, you heard me.

I'm of the mindset that if I'm going to put so much energy and time in to this garment it better damn well look as close to perfect as possible. This is only with historically correct clothing and corsets because they have to fit correctly.  I'm much easier on myself when I make steampunk clothing. The fit still has to be good but if it doesn't fit perfectly it doesn't really matter because it is all fantasy anyway. Like Ladystitch said, "Trim can hide a multitude of sins."

[Lady Kett]

In my day job I'm a perfectionist. I like things to work smoothly with a minimum of fuss and be most efficient. If I were a professional seamstress and made my living that way, I would probably BE that way. But this far in my newbie sewing, I'm very much a "close enough" and if trim or a bodice or belt or simply being 5 feet away and it won't be noticeable - it's good enough. Of course I'm still only sewing things that are very forgiving but plan on my first bodice attempt in the near future which may change my mind considerably!

If being a perfectionist makes you happy, there's not a thing wrong with it. If it causes undue stress and isn't your primary profession, I go for the 90% rule of "close enough".

I find your questions and the various responses very enlightening though, so whichever way you find the path to happiness, I hope you keep posting questions! 

[Hoowil]

I'd say, make it fit. If you can get it spot on without driving yourself batty, all the better. But, this (for a good number of us) is supposed to be for fun, so if you start to hate projects, you're going too far. And, we all change size and shape, just a little, every day. get it as close as you can comfortably, and enjoy. We're not manequins. I remember hearing something about quilters doing a 'humility square' in every piece, to remind themselves that nobody is perfect, but if you do your best, you've done good.

[Lady Rebecca]

I'm still sort of in the beginning stages of serious sewing, so I'm only starting the "fit" adventure. At this point, though, especially with corsets/bodices, it's more like, "does it look good/make me look good" as opposed to "does it fit perfectly." I've really never had much patience, so while sewing for myself, I feel like this policy works well for me.

And for the sewing that I've done for others recently, I took the measurements, made the garment, did a fitting, altered the garment, and had the finished product. From the stage, it certainly looked like it fit well, though I'm sure it was far from perfect.

All that said, when I start work on my new ren garb (for myself - a navy velvet skirt, doublet bodice, and alternate noble bodice) I'm definitely going to be more attentive to fit, since it's something that will show.

Now on a separate note, I don't have a dress form, and as I've said, I really don't have to much patience, so I don't do mockups. Instead, I draft and/or alter patterns using all the math I feel like I know, based off my measurements. So far, it seems like it's been working really well. Does anyone else do this instead of muslins?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When it comes to my personal garb and that of clients. the better the fit, the happier the wearer.

I am fussy about Bodices fitting well. No puckering or binding on the body. Smooth, clean lines. Which is why I use at least 2 layers of Cotton Canvas Duck as an underlining for bodices.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I'm PAID to make things fit!   

Quarter of an inch can make the difference between 'fit' and 'perfection'.  Patterns and measurements can only take you so far...  Then you have to do a fitting.

And I've seen little tucks in necklines made to make them fit and then covered with trim that are over 300 years old.  So there!     (Usually in things that were remodeled at some point, but not always.)

[Genievea Brookstone]

On a gown I just recently made, the skirt kept slipping down and peaking out from under the bodice, so I put additional grommets in 4 places on the skirt and 4 in corresponding locations under the bodice ( I am sure there is a correct name for these thingys, I have seen the photo's in JA POF books) but anyway, I was just going to stick some ribbon through the holes and tie them....my boyfriend how ever was mortified and went crazy searching on the correct way to tie them....

So for me, if I can get it to fit and am comfortable in I am all good little oddities and all...my boyfriend...if there is a gap, an off spaced grommet, anything out of sync, its off to research on how to make it correct.

[DonaCatalina]

I am just this side of anal retentive. However since most of what I make is ren-related, I can leave a tolerance of up to 1/2" depending on where it is. Neckline, pretty much has to be spot on.

[Lady Rosalind]

I really prefer that my ren-clothes fit properly. In fact, when I see an otherwise gorgeous gown with fit issues, it bugs me, and I want to go help fix it, even if I don't know the person! Proper fit means comfort as well.

For example, I had someone tighten my spiral-laced, side-back opening bodice last week. She hadn't done that type of bodice before, and ended up leaving things way too loose at the top. I couldn't figure out why my shoulder straps were wonky, and why my corset straps were showing. It was bugging me like crazy, as I knew that things fit the day before. We happened to go into a shop with a mirror, and I about cried, as I could see that the back of my corset was pushing out the back of my bodice! It wasn't laced tightly enough! Goodness knows how many photos were taken with it looking that awful! Luckily, one of the girls who usually helps me dress adjusted things properly, and my bodice fit perfectly again.

Just that minor thing really made a difference to the fit and look of the garment.

That said, I usually make only one mockup, figure out where the issues are, and modify the pattern. I have little patience for mockups, even though I know how important they are.

[ArielCallista]

I normally stop when I can't find issues from about 6 feet away, and it feels like it fits properly. That is unless its for class then it is perfect, cuz I'm getting graded on it. Also if its for a client I try way harder. I want them to feel like they got their money's worth and to recommend me to others. Now if its garb for me, it usually gets thrown together. I almost always make a mockup and tweak it then transfer those tweaks into whatever fashion fabric, use the mockup as lining or interfacing or something and call it done. Luckily when it comes to the kinds of garb I make I don't have to worry about my problem fit areas. I have broad shoulders but usually avoid sleeves unless they are  on a loose comfy chemise.

[flidais]

For me, I like my garb to fit well.  H/A or not.  Bad fitting garb seems to find a way of making a good day at faire go bad.  Nothing is worse to me than spending the whole day re-adjusting and tugging, or being poked somewhere.  Not that all my garb fits perfect.  But I am always trying.  And I think fit issues is why I've had a hard time getting myself to make new garb this year.  I've gained weight and I wouldn't be able to use any patterns I've drafted in the past and feel a little overwhelmed at the thought of starting from scratch again. 

[Dinobabe]

I only make garb for me and hubby.  I have NO sewing patience which means NO mock-ups!
So far I have been pretty lucky.  I drafted my own bodice and I guess at the proper big three correct measurements for me since we know they are all off.  But I'm not anal about fit either.  For my noble bodice I just put a HUGE modesty panel in the back and figured that would work with whatever gap happened to emerge!  I know some of you are cringing right now.   But I love what I have made and have been really lucky on good fits.

[CenturiesSewing]

Fit is the first thing I notice when looking at clothing, and the first thing I address when working on a project.

Every project usually gets a mock up if I am doing something new. Yes it takes time, but that is time well spent if I have a limited amount of fabric that I can't risk messing up. It forces me to slow down think things through and often problem solve in a slightly more period mindset.

Fit I've also found is something that evolves over time. You learn how different fabrics behave and adapt with the body.
And there is a certain magic when everything falls in place. You take in a side seam or shorten a sleeve so it is in proportion and it goes from just "good" to "fabulous".

[Marietta Graziella]

I like things to fit but there's that point of diminishing return.  For the extra 3 hours it'll take for me to recut/tweak/etc, will it look *that* much better?

As previously stated, this is supposed to be fun so for me close enough is good enough, but ultimately you have to make yourself happy.  Tweak and obsess away my friends!  It's your sanity. 

[ladyharrogate]

PERFECTIONIST, (unfortunately for my sanity sometimes)  I was trained in couture sewing and have worked in costume shops and doing clothing for Miss America, etc.  Needless to say I've learned to be a perfectionist on fit.  In pageants not only does it keep the customer happy it can mean the difference between winning and loosing, especially in evening and swimsuit.  That's just carried over into sewing.  A little secret though, fit is not just determined by how the garment "fits".  It is also determined by the inner structure of the garment.  Good interlinings and proper structure go a long ways in making a garment fit just right.  Next time you see a pucker, it might not be your fit as much as how you've worked with the fabric.  I always tell new seamstresses to take the time to work on their technique first then speed.  Then as you get faster you'll still do good work.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I do so agree with you!  It's the hidden stuff that makes the difference, so often, and the bits people skip as 'boring'.

[Anna Iram]

I've made the mistake of wearing something that fit *very* poorly and having a miserable day, but still I admit I don't take the time to get things just right. That's one of the reasons I buy corsets/bodices and make skirts and sometimes underpinnings. I can get those right enough to be seen or hidden.

[LadyStitch]

I do so agree with you!  It's the hidden stuff that makes the difference, so often, and the bits people skip as 'boring'.

I don't know how many times I have had to tell me people "yes interfacing and canvaes ARE nessasary to make this look good. And yes using the correct one matters!"

[gem]

I do so agree with you!  It's the hidden stuff that makes the difference, so often, and the bits people skip as 'boring'.

Well, this is the part where I work on fit, too. I have trouble moving on from this stage, though. I'm getting ready (right this moment) to tweak the innards of my corded curved-front dress (which at the moment is ONLY innards--the corded canvas interlining). I would really like to end up with an actually DRESS by the end of this, and I'm concerned I won't ever get there b/c I won't ever be happy about the fit... and I'd rather have A dress that almost fits perfectly than NO dress at all.