Smock/Partlet idea

[Lady Rebecca]

I am attempting to make one garment that is sort of a smock meets partlet combination. Has anyone tried something like this before? What I'm doing is using a men's shirt pattern (the kind with the high collar and yoke), but instead of doing the regular yoke, I'm going to finish off the top of the body (the sea at the bust) with bias tape, and finish off the bottom of the yoke front as well. That way, the yoke front can be worn open (but closed at the neck like a partlet) or closed (like a shirt), while still providing the coverage of a normal smock or chemise. In addition, I have increased the length of the shirt by 20", and added gussets at the sides, so that the total circumference at the hem is 100-120" (I haven't quite decided yet). Also, I'm using the sleeves from an old chemise pattern whose sleeves I love, but with the gathered shoulders of the shirt pattern (so they match up). I'm trying to decide if I should tie off the sleeves at the wrist, or use buttons and loops.

What do you all think? Any tips/advice?

[gem]

This is pretty much what I've done with my Frankensmock--using the embroidered linen for the partlet/sleeves/collar, but sewing the bottom of the smock with plain linen.

I just read on the Margo Anderson list where someone had made a partlet with sleeves and said it was more trouble than it was worth. I do know at least one garb merchant who used to sell a partlet with sleeves (essentially a cropped chemise).

[Lady Rosalind]

For the cuffs, I recommend either hooks & eyes, or buttons. Laces are more trouble than they are worth, and they wear out fast. They also don't like to stay closed very well, and are hard to get out of at the end of a long day. My son would invariably end up with a knot instead of a double-bow in all laces, sometime leading to a frustrated me cutting the stupid lace to get him out of his shirt. End lacing rant, LOL!

Your idea will probably work. I've also started pleating the top of the sleeves, instead of gathering, as it looks nicer, and is way easier to add more fullness to the sleeves (okay, I hate gathering, too!).

[Hoowil]

Your idea will probably work. I've also started pleating the top of the sleeves, instead of gathering, as it looks nicer, and is way easier to add more fullness to the sleeves (okay, I hate gathering, too!).

I'd second that. Rather do small box pleats that gather any time.

[Cilean]

Um guys? You all are reinventing the wheel!!! It is called a High Neck Smock.  It was the real Elizabethan as the square necked ones were worn with a partlet as Henrician moved to Elizabethan....





There are tons of patterns out there at this moment, so I would suggest checking out those first before trying to make something up!

Cilean

[Lady Rebecca]

That's different than what I'm doing, though. Mine has a seam just above the bust line, and the neckline area can open up, so that it can look like a partlet or a high-necked smock. It's still in the in-progress phase, missing the neck details and a sleeve, but it's on hold at the moment, while I finish a few costumes for the show I'm doing.

[gem]

Same here. I'm doing this b/c there was no reason to use the expensive embroidered linen for the *entire* smock, but I wanted the ease of a one-piece smock instead of the fuss of 3/4 pieces: smock + partlet + sleeves.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When doing Chemises and shirts, I use White Middy Braid(when I can find it) or White Soutasch for loops. Buttons and loops work better anyway than ties.

Ties are a pain in the rear.

[Aunty Lou]

Cilean, those chemises are exactly what I was thinking of when I wanted new garb!
     I saw a couple paintings by Sofonisba Anguissolla of her sisters playing chess and grinning at the artist (and us!)  Her girls are wearing kirtles and short-sleeved gowns over the most amazing blackworked chemises, all high-necked with very modest ruffs.  I have a shirt pattern that will do.  I will add godets and length for a chemise-length shirt, and embroider patterns.found on aeg.atlantia.sca.org/projects/howto/blackwork/index.htm. 
     Now to figure out how to make the straight lines stay straight! 
     OR! or! or!, as the others have thought, use the pattern, make the upper body and sleeves of an embroidered linen, and the bottom of a plain...  If similar weights can be found...  Hmm!

[DonaCatalina]

That's different than what I'm doing, though. Mine has a seam just above the bust line, and the neckline area can open up, so that it can look like a partlet or a high-necked smock. It's still in the in-progress phase, missing the neck details and a sleeve, but it's on hold at the moment, while I finish a few costumes for the show I'm doing.

It sounds like you're usimng a pattern similar to this one'

Which I don't recommend for women because of the way the front lays.
Are you hoping for something that looks like this?

[Lady Rebecca]

Somewhat, but instead of having a full seam in the front, the yoke can flap open or shut. And it's full length. I'll try to post some pictures soon.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Dona Catalina!!!

I use that Alter Years pattern a lot for Noble Men and Women. I vary the fabrics used, decorative stitching, Lace,  and embellishments a bit to make them look different from one another while using the same pattern.

Nobleman's Shirt...







Noblewoman's Chemise...

[isabelladangelo]

What is sounds like is this:
http://jeffpost.org/sckaye/Costume/Images/Extant/2costume8.jpg

but with a high neck...which was done and is period.   

[gem]

...And that's exactly what I'm doing (but with the high neck). 

[Lady Rebecca]

After having to put off finishing the smock all summer, it's nearly complete. Check out the gallery of in progress projects for pictures of the neckline.