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Bodice help

Started by WindChime, January 09, 2011, 10:13:31 PM

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WindChime

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions of how to make a stomacher for a bodice that is about 8 inches to small. I got a great deal on a Moresca bodice for $25 and it is a size large. I wanted small for the reason that I will shrink down to fit it. I have alerady lost 105 pounds and am slowly reaching my goal, but I would love to show off my precious new peice and have it look great too.
Chime'n Penny / Cheiftess Clan O'Maille
Irish Penny Brigade
Guppy #90
Castleteer
IWG #3740 Local #57
Lost Viking
FOKTOP
Booth Owner @ KyRF & ORF
Keeper of All Bells & Chimes
RESCU Rally Captain ORF &  KyRF

Lady Rebecca

I assume you want the stomacher to be boned? It should be pretty easy (though not necessarily Ren). But all you need is to sandwich the cable ties for the boning in between two layers of cotton duck, and put fashion fabric on top to correspond with the colors of the bodice, then lace over it.

My 18th cent corset laces over a stomacher in the front, and this is what it looks like: 

That front piece is just held in by the lacing of the bodice.

operafantomet

Lady Rebecca, that is very nice!

Option number one is to make a panel matching the bodice. Option number two is to make a decorated stomacher, for example with embroidery, gold lace, rich brocade etc. The top of the stomacher should follow the lines of the existing bodice, but the lower part can be slightly pointed (=longer).

The easiest way to make one is to draft one directly on the bodice. Use two layers of steady cotton or linen, sew boning channels and bone it (for example three vertical lines, and a couple of angled lines at the sides). You can either attach a decorative fabric on top, or a plain fabric serving as basis for the decorations.

Like Lady Rebecca said, you more or less lace the stomacher in place, so it's "stuck" under the existing lacing. You can make holes in the top corners and lace it together with the bodice to secure it - that is, if your bodice currently lace up! You might have to add small eyelets to the inside of the bodice opening if you're closing it with hooks and eyes or another patent. You can also pin it to the bodice. Here's some dresses with decorative stomachers:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/bordone1530svioletta.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese1560s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese1570s.jpg

For a theatrical flamenco/18th century dress I had a decorated stomacher in the A shaped opening. It was attached to the bodice with hooks and eyes, and that worked pretty well too. The important thing is to bone the stomacher, so it is as supportive as the rest of the bodice. You can see the theatrical one here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/aminta/stomacheraminta.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/amintadkgoblet.jpg

gem

I have a couple "Triangle Bodices" from Ophelia's that essentially have a lace-in stomacher panel in the center. One is a teensy bit too small for me at the moment, and you can really see how the panel laces in:



(That's RF forum member Butch there with me!)

Unlike Rebecca's (gorgeous!) corset, this has no overlap--it just laces edge-to-edge. If your bodice laces up the front, it would be *really* easy to make an insert panel like this. Just trace the shape you want onto paper; it should be at least as long as the bodice's lacing edges, so you can have the same number of grommets, and then whatever width you're comfortable with.  Select a coordinating fabric (the fun part!!), and then construct a three- or four-layer insert piece. I would use two layers of canvas for stability and for the boning channels, three or four bones (both lacing edges and one or two more along the rest), then two layers of fashion fabric that coordinate with the current bodice. That way it can be reversible for even more fun. You can either bind your center panel with bias binding or turn and topstitch it (your preference). Then the last step would be adding the grommets.

It'll be a little bit of effort, but it won't be that difficult.

Good luck!

Dinobabe

Not trying to be too personal or anything, but, I have always wondered if the placement of the lacings would pinch your boob?  Or at least make it poke out weird or something!  Sorry!  Just curious! ;D

Also, do you think this could be done with an underbust bodice?  I have this really great underbust that my grandma made for me MANY years ago but now it is too small.  This might be a way that I can wear it again!  I think it would look really cute as part of a bellydance outfit.  Kinda Ghawazee style or something.
Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com

gem

Well, I will just say that when I bought my first Ophelia's bodice, I was told to wear a bra with it.  ;)

WindChime

Thanks everyone. I have the S B Brocade style that has the lacing on the sides and 2 panels in the front. I was hoping it would be something like Gem said because that is what I'm trying to do, but I didn't know how to do all the layers and channels. I would have to be able to lace it in place because I own a booth and am constantly moving around helping customers try on jewelry and gypsy belts and I was afraid the other option might slide down during the day. Since I am in it for about 8 + hours a day when I wear it.
Chime'n Penny / Cheiftess Clan O'Maille
Irish Penny Brigade
Guppy #90
Castleteer
IWG #3740 Local #57
Lost Viking
FOKTOP
Booth Owner @ KyRF & ORF
Keeper of All Bells & Chimes
RESCU Rally Captain ORF &  KyRF

gem

I think it should be totally doable, and pretty straightforward. You probably know this already, but just in case: the easiest bones to work with for this project will be heavy duty cable ties (the really thick ones, like this, the ones on the left). You find them at Home Depot (you may have to ask), and they come in 24 or 36 inch lengths. You can cut them to length with scissors (not your good sewing ones!) and then sand, melt, or Dremel down the cut edges. Very user-friendly!

Dinobabe

Since this is supposed to be temporary maybe you could sew in some snaps to keep the panel in place (maybe 3 on each side), then lace over it for the look.  You can change the placement of the snaps as you lose weight then get rid of them completely!
Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com

gem

Natasha, I just saw what you said about underbust bodices.  I think it should be possible; there's an OOP Simplicity pattern of an underbust bodice made of multiple panels:



It's harder to see the multiple panels laced together on the purple underbust version, but you can see how the bodice goes together in the "Scottish dairymaid" view. I don't see why you couldn't try something like that.

Dinobabe

I had forgotten about that pattern.  Thanks for the reminder!
Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com

WindChime

The dairymaid is what my bodice looks like. at least how it is laced in the front
Chime'n Penny / Cheiftess Clan O'Maille
Irish Penny Brigade
Guppy #90
Castleteer
IWG #3740 Local #57
Lost Viking
FOKTOP
Booth Owner @ KyRF & ORF
Keeper of All Bells & Chimes
RESCU Rally Captain ORF &  KyRF