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Piping a bodice (or, is the Margo bodice lined?)

Started by gem, February 04, 2011, 04:24:07 PM

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gem

I am ready to construct the bodice of my kirtle project (I'm taking my corset pattern and adding a skirt to it). I want to pipe the edges, as shown in the Margo Anderson Elizabethan Lady's pattern, but I've never made a bodice like this before. I've bound a corset, but every other bodice I've made has been lined and turned. I'm ready to learn a new technique, and add a little embellishment to the project while I'm at it.

So I think I need VERY BASIC instructions for lining a bodice when the edges are piped, or very basic instructions for constructing a piped bodice.

Gramercy!!


Kate XXXXXX

You can do it by the stitch and turn method in exactly the same way.  You just sandwich the flange of the piping between the lining and the outer fabric.  Clip the flange at the corners and along any curves, and go from there.

gem

Hmmm... interesting. Thanks, Kate. The Margo instructions actually say that one of the benefits of using piping is so that the entire bodice can be assembled flat, without turning. That really appeals to me; I'm hoping somebody can elaborate on how that's done!

Kate XXXXXX

I may have to go and look that up.  I can't visualize it being neat on the inside...

theatrekat

#4
I do it all the time.

It's a similar idea to how you bound your corset.  How they have you bind the corset is what my costuming prof. called "bias binding to show"  while the piping technique is similar to what she called "bias binding to face".

I assemble all my layers individually, and then sandwich them together, and baste all my raw edges together (trick: stitch your basting at the stitching line-it's a guide to help you place you piping)

Then using your zipper foot or a cording foot you stitch your piping on so the flange is on the same side of your stitching line as your seam allowance.  When you've sewn your piping around all your edges you use the flange of your piping to bind the raw edges of your seam allowance to the inside of your bodice by folding it over seam allowance, folding it down, and then hand stitching it in place.  

I"m not at a point in my current project for step by step pictures, but if you would like I can post some when I get there, probably sometime tonight or tomorrow morning.  But the finished project looks like this:

outside of bodice:
[img]/Users/Kathy/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/bodice piping/IMG_1601.JPG/img]


inside of bodice:
[img]/Users/Kathy/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/bodice piping/IMG_1602.JPG/img]

-kat

theatrekat

Sorry, I don't think my computer wants to cooperate right now, and I have to leave for the theatre, but I will post photos later.
-kat

gem

Kate, I also remembered that the bodice is fully boned, like a corset, so I'm not sure turning it is even possible. I suppose I might be able to do it through one of the side backs...? But that's a lot of long boning to manipulate through any smallish space.

Kat, thanks!!  For your pictures, if they're already somewhere online, I think you just need to add a bracket before your end tag:

[img]/Users/Kathy/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2011/bodice piping/IMG_1602.JPG[/img]

Theoretically, that should make the picture visible. It should also make it visible in *this* post, but that doesn't seem to be happening, at least in the preview! Although it looks like you might also need a URL (http:// or www. or whatnot). I don't believe we can actually upload pix directly to the BB...?

Based on your instructions, though, I'm wondering if I don't even need a lining. I was planning on it covering up raw skirt edges &c, but maybe it's just a superfluous extra layer...?


Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

What I do when I pipe a Bodice, I use an old zipper foot to sew it down around all  outer edges of the neckline, underarms, and straps. The I sew in wide, single fold bias, slip stitching on the inside to hold it down. The lining, which is a replica of the bodice fabric in a linen or Quilter's weight broadcloth, is folded over, pinned onto the piping, then sewn using the invisible slip stitch. I make my linings a bit longer all about to get a nice finish.

When sewing waist treatments as well as piping,I use bias tape to hold things down. The instructions in Margo's handbook that come with her patterns explain the process better than I just did.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

theatrekat

http://s1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/theatrekat/

The pictures of the blue bodice are what i tried to post yesterday.

the black and burgundy pictures are kind of a step by step process, of course they appear backwards in the album.

basically as follows, from right to left<

1. baste layers together (which for me is more like stitch together on normal stitch length without backstitching)

2a. using previous stitching as a guide, place my cording on using my zipper foot

2b.  same thing, but using my double cord foot instead

3a.  view from wrong side of how to bind with the flange: burgundy is the first fold, black is the second fold.  I normally roll my fold straight into the black and silver version,  i wouldn't normally pin the burgundy version.

3b. view from right side of garment at same point.

From here, all you do is slip stitch/catch stitch/hem stitch/ somehow hand sew the folded edge to your inner fabric.

Gem,  in regards to the lining,  in my sandwiching of layers the layer that will be closest to the body is the "lining",  and I tend to use a layer of quilting cotton there.

-kat



gem

Thanks, everyone!!

Kat, those pictures are *really* helpful. The finishing on the inside of the blue bodice is really lovely.

Lady K, are you talking about applying the lining by hand after everything is constructed, sort of like she shows at the Tudor Costuming Pages? I've actually considered that, since I think it gives me a lot of flexibility with my options here. I wasn't exactly sure what you were describing about the bias tape, however. Where does it go?

So I think my options are:

--Kat's method of piping a bodice sandwich, no additional lining layer. Possibly with Lady K's method (I think?) of adding a lining by hand.

--Kate's method of piping and then turning. I'm concerned about piping/turning the very narrow shoulder straps, and of turning the whole boned bodice. But it gives me the best lining option, I think, for covering up the kirtle's waist seam. 

One thing I'm concerned about is what to do about where the shoulder straps meet the back. The front/sides and the back are completely separate pieces, joined only by the skirt and shoulder straps. Ideally, you'd pipe that neckline all the way around so the piping is continuous, but I'm not sure that's possible with Kate's method.  ???

Thanks for the suggestions, ladies--keep them coming!!



Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#10
gem

The lining gets sewn in by hand using the invisible slip stitch.

I pin the lining right up to the piping that is being held down by the bias tape. , covering the rest of the bais tape that I sewed by hand.

Here is a photo of me in my red velveteen gown that has piping about the neck and waist of my bodice. . The shoulder treatments are also held down with Bias tape, then the lining sewn on the inside. Not the best photo, but you can see what I mean.

Piping adds a nice classy touch to bodices. In fact, in Margo Anderson's instructions, Bias Tape is shown as a good tool to use to keep edges clean and a base for which to set in linings.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

LadyStitch

Gem, When my friends did their extremly difficult bodice they were require d to pipe all the edges, but the did a type of one where they sewed the piping on but still had .5-.75 of an inch turned to the inside that they had to hand sew to inside of the bodice.  The edges were 'bound' but they still got the piping look.  Looked amazing on the dresses, but it was ALOT of handstitching for them.   I wish I had a picture of their bodices, or at least had access to my "how to" example book.  It has an example of how to do that time of piping edge binding.  I know it is in the Costumers Tech's handbook.
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

 That's one way to get that same look, Lady Stitch! A bit of a shortcut for stage wear costumes. Who's going to look inside a garment anyway???

But when doing commissions for clients, I go the extra mile for myself and clients because it looks and wears better. Linings take the brunt of the stress of the garment.

It's the same philosophy I apply to when I reline coats. A coat is only as good as the lining inside because the lining takes the brunt of the stress when worn.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

LadyStitch

That is very true. To be honest, I line most of my theater stuff because 1) our shows are 30+ performances and wear and tear is constant on them, and 2) they use them in multiple shows.  If they can get away with using a costume  more than that because the construction is good the money crunchers are much much happier.  (I have a dress that it is near it's last lets but it has been worn in shows over 150 times on stage.)


It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

gem

Thanks, everyone!! I'm so excited to have started a thread that people are actually replying to! (I ask so many questions here that just end up in a void.)

It looks like hand-sewing the lining in will be the easiest/safest method. I am not afraid of hand-sewing at all; in fact, I really enjoy it, and I'm pretty fast with it. Of course, I still haven't decided what the lining is even going to be yet (want to use something from my stash, so it will probably be muslin or an old sheet).

I am headed off to my sewing studio shortly, and hope to get the bodice pcs cut out and ready to assemble, as well as get started on the piping.

Wish me luck!!

***
Just in case this thread shows up in somebody's search later, I'm updating it! I did end up applying the entire lining completely by hand, using the ladder stitch. It went really swiftly and looks terrific. :)