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Hat ideas

Started by Adalia Lee, February 09, 2011, 12:25:23 PM

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Adalia Lee

Be aware though, that while the stiff and sturdy visors look great and are easier to use, the flexible foam ones are a lot more comfortable!

gem

A word of caution on the sun-visor French hoods, for anyone needing their garb to be historically accurate: It might be an easy way to make a French hood, but visors produce a very tall silhouette that wasn't really seen in period--and sun visor French hoods are a frequent target of garb purists. Kimiko Small (who wrote the historical notes for Margo Anderson's Tudor Woman's Ensemble) talks about French hoods here and here. And Drea Leeds offers notes and a more historically accurate method of construction here.

Adalia Lee

Like I said before, it was a last minute project, and by no means meant to be H/A, considering most french hoods came down in front of the ears and had a different shape.  This was a "shoot I don't have anything to cover my head with and the hat that I ordered won't be here for a few days and faire is this weekend" type of project.

Rowan MacD

#18
Quote from: gem on February 16, 2011, 03:48:47 PM
A word of caution on the sun-visor French hoods, for anyone needing their garb to be historically accurate: It might be an easy way to make a French hood, but visors produce a very tall silhouette that wasn't really seen in period--and sun visor French hoods are a frequent target of garb purists. Kimiko Small (who wrote the historical notes for Margo Anderson's Tudor Woman's Ensemble) talks about French hoods here and here. And Drea Leeds offers notes and a more historically accurate method of construction here.
Yeah, you do have to watch out for the 'period police' if you choose the visor method if you are going to be somewhere where HA is an issue, like some of the larger fairs.  If you are going to be part of a coourt, you should probably just make a hood from buckrum and wire and be done with it.
  I think the ideal width (or height) for a french hood is somewhere between 1.5 to 2 ";  visors are about 3"-3.5"  I suppose if you wanted to cut a visor down by what ever means, you could make it work. It would be an interesting experiment...
  The visor hood that Adalia made is lovely and is very close to many of the handmade versions I've seen at faire (and better than some) on many cast members.  It would pass muster in most of the venues I've been to, but probably not in the SCA.  I suppose it depends on where you plan to wear it, and how HA you are trying to be.
  Hey, I would say if it looks good on you and looks reasonably accurate, wear it. Have fun!
 The research does indeed show the hood is supposed to lie flat, but if you reference Hollywood (and that is where most mundanes get their idea of how things should look) then a french hood stands up like a tiara.
   Edit: Come to think of it,  I have never seen a period accurate hood at faire.
  Just the Hollywood versions that stick up like mini-sails.   How odd.





 
 
 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



When it comes to French Hoods, I do all the ones I make by hand... using the patterns of Lynn McMasters.

"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Adalia Lee

And they are gorgeous!
Hopefully this year I can add to my collection. I have about 3 different hats I want to make. One of them being an actual french hood (and not another cheater one  :) ) I've been banned from buying anything Renaissance related until we get our tax return back, so I am waiting as patiently as I can.

bookwench

Last minute or not, I think it turned out nice :)

I make my French and English hoods out of buckram as well, and since buckram wilts in the rain I use a strong spray water repellent once they're finished (was going to post a link to a photo, but the html is giving me fits!)

As far as historical accuracy, I agree that visors give more of an upward tilt than what's usually seen in the historical record.  I started researching hoods using Kimiko's articles (which are brilliant, by the way!), and thought I had the basic structure pretty well figured out.  Then I read the Tudor Tailor, and they show a much different structure - the hood meets in the back under the veil, almost like a sort of helmet.  I'd never seen anything like that before, except for that recent Simplicity pattern (and I figured that construction was just a modern technique to make it easier to wear).   What do you guys think?  Any idea which is more correct?   


Quote from: Adalia Lee on February 16, 2011, 05:06:06 PM
Like I said before, it was a last minute project, and by no means meant to be H/A, considering most french hoods came down in front of the ears and had a different shape.  This was a "shoot I don't have anything to cover my head with and the hat that I ordered won't be here for a few days and faire is this weekend" type of project.

"I base most of my fashion taste on what doesn't itch." -G. Radner

Rowan MacD

#22
   Anybody got ideas for a Gable hood?  The Dress I just ordered needs either a french or a gable hood.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gable_hood

What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

LadyStitch

I made a french hood about oh.. 9 years a go? (YIKES!)  I found a pattern online that an art student who was studying historical garments hat put up.  It was a nice tudor one.  At the advice of people on here I used plastic canvas with 16 gage floral white hand sewn to it,  with a thin layer of batting over it, and then the fabric over it. I had something like 24+ hours in just the hat.  It wasn't completely historicall accurate but it worked well, and stood up to a freak rain shower with out melting which is what I was going for.   I like it and that is what matters. 

The other elizabethian hat i made was a tall hat.  Turned out nice but I had hours on it hand sewing, glueing, and such.  I would do it again, but just doesn't fit with my characters any more.   
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted





The Gabled Hood, all done by hand from the Margo Anderson pattern from the Tudor Lady's ensemble, done for Lady de Laney last year. This hood is done all by hand using Plastic Canvas for the base, the back box,  Polar Fleece, lots of Hot Glue, Millinery Wire, etc. This hood took me 12 hours to do from start to finish.

Suggested retail Price is $275(Labor and Materials) plus shipping.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

LadyStitch

And people gripe why good quality hats ( be they ren or not)  cost a fortune. /sigh
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



Good Quality hats cost a small fortune because they are that...QUALITY!!! One can see that from the first moments they set eyes on one.

What one spends for one good hat, others will have replaced the same hat several times over the life of one hat, thus spending more in the long run.

It's the same with Garb. Well made garb is a chunk of change in the beginning. But over the course of many years, that garb will still look as good as the day it was delivered with proper care and wear.

Even in this Economy, clients want Rolls Royce quality and are willing to pay for it.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Rowan MacD

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on February 17, 2011, 08:28:35 PM

The Gabled Hood, all done by hand from the Margo Anderson pattern from the Tudor Lady's ensemble, done for Lady de Laney last year. This hood is done all by hand using Plastic Canvas for the base, the back box,  Polar Fleece, lots of Hot Glue, Millinery Wire, etc. This hood took me 12 hours to do from start to finish.
Suggested retail Price is $275(Labor and Materials) plus shipping.
Lovely work, and it just about convinced me I need a French hood instead ;)
  That Gable looks like it would be hot to wear, though I love all the decoration!  I don't mind spending money on good quality garb. 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

bookwench

You do beautiful work!

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on February 17, 2011, 08:28:35 PM




The Gabled Hood, all done by hand from the Margo Anderson pattern from the Tudor Lady's ensemble, done for Lady de Laney last year. This hood is done all by hand using Plastic Canvas for the base, the back box,  Polar Fleece, lots of Hot Glue, Millinery Wire, etc. This hood took me 12 hours to do from start to finish.

Suggested retail Price is $275(Labor and Materials) plus shipping.
"I base most of my fashion taste on what doesn't itch." -G. Radner

Rowan MacD

#29
  OK.  I have the simplicity pattern for a french hood.  My question is this:
Would plastic needlepoint canvas work as a decent sub for buckram?

Edit:Strike that!  I re-read Lady Stitch's post above. I think I'll go with the plastic.  I may not need to wire the darn thing so much if the plastic holds it's shape so well....

 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt