Ok, making another decision: seams or no seams in the bodice

[gem]

So having survived the Great Damask Color Conundrum of 2011, it's time to cut out the pieces for the bodice.

The "bones" (literally) of this project are the Simplicity 2621 corset that I've made before. I've already constructed that entire layer from canvas + cable ties. Now I need to face it with the damask.

Here's my question. There are two seams in the front of the corset, around the center front panel. You can see them clearly in this picture, where the angled boning starts:



(I should point out that this is the front/sides of the corset--there's a separate panel for the back--and it laces up the side-backs. So those two seams are definitely in the *front,* like where princess seams wold be, not around the sides.)

On my pink version, I carefully matched the pattern of the damask so that those seams were more or less invisible:


...But on that, the pink layer was structural--it was part of the corset, and I didn't want to muck too much with the panels/structure by eliminating the seams altogether (although there is a little grainline shift to match that pattern).

I'm trying to decide what to do with the facing fabric (the purple damask) on the kirtle. My options are:

1. Just cut the three panels normally, not worrying about the seams.

2. Cut three panels and meticulously match them.

3. Cut a single panel that wraps all the way around the body and has no seams at all. (Lady Rosalind posted a great picture here that sort of illustrates what I mean. See how there are no seams in the front to break up the lines?)

I think my preference is #3, but I'm concerned about the stability/shiftiness of the purple layer. I'll baste it down to the boned flatlining, of course--but the skirt is going to attach to the waistline seam allowances. Is there any reason I *shouldn't* go with #3?

Please weigh in!

Gramercy!

[operafantomet]

Historically the one-panel option would be used. This was brilliantly demonstrated in one of the costumes used in Elizabeth I with Glenda Jackson - the bodice is front closed, so the whole bodice is cut in one single piece. Pretty amazing. You can see it here:

http://www.naergilien.info/research/london1/Phoenix/P3290183.JPG
http://www.naergilien.info/research/london1/Phoenix/index.htm
ETA: The so-called Pheonix portrait, of which the movie costume is based on:
http://www.shafe.co.uk/crystal/images/lshafe/Hilliard_Elizabeth_I_the_Phoenix_Portrait_c1575-6.jpg

For side laced bodices you can of course not cut it in only one piece, as the Phoenix gown. But two pieces is what's used in all extant Italian dresses from the 16th century - one panel in front, one in the back. I used that for (amongst others) my green Unicorn dress. It's made of a sort of peau-de-pêche silk, which I was afraid would wrinkle or misbehave. But by adding interlining between the silk and the boned (read: hemped) layer I got an incredibly smooth and nice surface, and the fabric stays in place. Try a sort of padding; I think the brocade would "stick" to it.

The finished Unicorn dress:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/unicorn.html

That said, what you achieved with the pink version is quite fantastic! It match up so well. It's definitely a good option as well.

[gem]

Thanks, Anea!

Those Phoenix gown pictures were *really* helpful, particularly the one of the 3-panel lining.

Looks like I need to tack my pattern together and fold the SAs out of the way, and find a folded spot on the fabric that looks good.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Suggestion, gem! No matter how you cut your bodice, be sure to underline the Bodice Fabric in a Denim. That way, the lovely boning that you did won't show through.

[ArielCallista]

I honestly dont think it would matter if you completely ignore the grainline issue on this since you'll be attaching the fabric onto something very stable. I wouldnt let it sit around too much after you cut it out tho in case the grain shifts around and it won't line back up when you're ready to sew it on...once its one the rest of the corset you'll be fine...

[gem]

Thanks, all!

I'm test-driving (wearing  ) the bodice at the moment, to decide if I need to shave a teensy bit more off the side edges before calling it final. It's looking good!! Although I think my bias-cut straps may be stretching just a bit. Need to get these babies bound before they're permanently too big!

Lady K, I've actually cut a panel of wool felt to pad the bodice with, but I think I'm not going to use it. I don't want it to go all the way to the edges and give me another layer (for 5!!) to have to make the eyelets through, and if it doesn't go all the way to the edges, I'm not sure where to stop it, or I'll get a ridge--which is kind of the whole point of padding the thing.  Hmmm.

[operafantomet]

Lady K, I've actually cut a panel of wool felt to pad the bodice with, but I think I'm not going to use it. I don't want it to go all the way to the edges and give me another layer (for 5!!) to have to make the eyelets through, and if it doesn't go all the way to the edges, I'm not sure where to stop it, or I'll get a ridge--which is kind of the whole point of padding the thing.  Hmmm.

If you stitch down the edges, this should not be an issue, unless your fancy fabric is reeeeeally thin or smooth. I just used a layer of felt for a silk bodice, and there are no too visible edges anywhere. I totally see what you mean about too thick layers, though - I let the felt follow the width of the fancy fabric at the straps, and that was a nightmare to work with... Oi!