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Fitting a bodice with a higher neckline (was doublet bodice)

Started by gem, February 16, 2011, 10:02:26 PM

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operafantomet

Quote from: gem on February 21, 2011, 12:30:17 PM
Thanks, Anea!  Centuries Sewing actually sent me a fabulous link to early French manuscript pages with gowns that are exactly the same era/style as Promenade. You can imagine my excitement!! PM me if you're interested; I am perfectly happy to pass them on (some of them are just incredible.)  As for raising the neckline, I did try exactly what you suggested. Click here for the less-than-completely-satisfactory results.  :-\

I think my key here is going to be starting with an altogether different bodice block, an adjusted boning pattern, and lots more draping. Must finish the purple kirtle first, though! (And I should probably get a little closer to my summer/Fair weight!)
I know it might not mean the biggest difference for the finished result. But in this one the boning stops under the inserted strip. You're bound to get a big difference in stiffening and tension then, I don't think you'll get an idea of how it would look on if you don't continue the boning into the inserted strip.

But starting anew might be easier in the end. And how cool about those new photos of similar dresses!

gem

So you would extend the boning all the way to the top? Interesting... I'll admit that was my first impulse as well, but fittings didn't support (ahem) that technique... so I was actually thinking of trying the curved/underbust boning recommended by Jane Malcolm-Davies in her 2008 essay in "Costume," and seen in the corset of Pfalzgrafin Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg.

Cilean



Okay I am now with you, I have the page here and yes if it were me? I would use some muslin and just make a toile.  My Doublet is from Margo and does have princess seams in, and I adore this for my personal shape as I have DDs who even strapped in, want some space in the Doublet.   I am going to attempt making one of these for my BFF in Corduroy for tourney gear I am going to toile her because I want to see if I can get the look for her from the start to finish.  I have been really making patterns for myself for a bit, however being a sewing intermediate, I still like to work from someone else's pattern. That is for April, and I will have a Page for the Gown in my blog.

I suggest getting a friend who also wants a Doublet Bodice to help you and then you help them!


Cheers!

Cilean


Lady Cilean Stirling
"Looking Good is not an Option, It is a Necessity"
My Motto? Never Pay Retail