Sewing for the Well endowed

[LadyStitch]

This is something that my tutor never really covered.  I would prefer setting up a dummy and draping it over a nice bra, but that is not possible (long story....)  So I have to flat pattern my current project.
As I have gone along I've run into a few questions.

1) my directions show to acomidate a larger bust I'm to slash verticall and horizontally from the bust point, open it up an inch for ever cup size over C, realign bust point, then retrace darts.

2)  What strap configuration works best for ladies over a C cup?

3) Without using a corset how can you give more support to ladies of a larger than C size?
Reason for asking: The girl I'm making one of my barbarian costumes for has got serious body image issues. I'm making her a full torso outfit, but she is required to show a great amount a of cleave. She is freaking out that she won't have support for the DDD girls.  I had wanted to do a single shoulder design on her to hide her tattoo, but she went over my head to my boss to have it changed. She didn't want to show that much skin  (I know, you are dressing like a barbarian and DON"T want to show skin?   ) Next to putting a corset under her animal skin bodice  what can I do to help her feel more comfortable? Since she is running and jumping all over the place boneing her dress out the wazzo doesn't seem that practical.  I just don't want her poked every day for 6 weeks.

4)  Any advise/ suggestions from the well endowed ladies out there would be very much appreciated.

[Trillium]

What strap configuration really depends on the build of the woman, wide or narrow shoulders and personal comfort make a big difference.

For #3, does she have a good, supportive bra to hold up the cleavage that you could work the costume around?  Personally, I am a 34DD and have a good bra that I wear under my garb because I still have slippage and don't want the extra heat of a corset.  It helps hold things where they need to be, make me (and the hubby) more comfortable, and I can remove the straps depending on the garb.

[LadyStitch]

She gave me a comfy bra that she was willing to donate to the cause.  I think I will match her to one of the other girl's for her top. She will have a nice low cut front but have the back covered so we can give her extra support. 

Now just need to make the top correctly.

[gem]

I second the need for a good, supportive bra (you're sort of building these from bras, right?).  "Comfy" might not cut it in this case (altho' for me, comfy = supportive.).  The problem is, supportive doesn't always give you a lot of cleavage.  You might start with something like a Goddess brand longline bra (not just any longline will work), but I can't imagine that that would be comfortable *at all* in the heat at Fair.  I'd rather wear a corset, frankly.

Also, having the bodice/top lace or clasp up the front adds a nice extra layer of support (like wearing a bra-top *over* a sports bra), and it will also help provide the cleavage.

Good luck!

[LadyStitch]

She gave me the strapped wired bra for me to build into the bodice.  I agree with the corset vs a long line bra.  It seems like it is either the look that my boss wants, or the comfort/support the girl needs. 

I may just break down and add rigiline to the lining (where it won't be seen)to give her a little more support. I just don't want her whining about being poked or rubbed for the 6 weeks. 

Am i on the right track about the pattern slashing?

[isabelladangelo]

Given that this is fantastical, I'd probably make my own pattern.   I'd make the mid-drift part of the bodice in a waist cincher shape out of leather.  I'd then attach leather cups that fit pefectly over her to the top of the waist cincher.   I'd add maybe a different piece of leather or fur over the cups to hide the "bustier" look.  You can easily add it between the straps to give a square front and hide the support structure.   The straps should go right over the collarbone, about two inches in from the edge of the shoulders.  That should keep the cavewoman/barbarian look but keep her comfortable as well.

[LaurenLee]

Just wanted to say that you can add some well-placed stuffing in the sides of a good supportive bra, and even in the bottom of the cup, that can rearrange the "girls" inward and upward, creating cleavage.  I believe that's how they actually make push-up bras, but already being a 38D myself, I've never actually tried one on !!

[Taffy Saltwater]

Can the bra be incorporated into her costume?  Also, some silicone cutlets will give extra oomph to her cleavage.

[LadyStitch]

Yes a bra is being incorporated into her costume. I'll see if we can get some of the "chicken cutlets"  but that will depend on the budget.

[mollymishap]

Here's an alternative: try draping the top directly on your lady using one of these methods for a "gothic fitted dress".  The model seems like a well-endowed girl, and the pattern produces a neat silhouette, which could be modified easily for a barbarian look.  Here's the url: http://www.cottesimple.com/fem_silhouette/comparison/comparison.html

[gypsylakat]

Those peices of stuffing in push up bras, suck. period. they make definite muffin top and if you do anything athletic, they pop straight out. trust me.

[nliedel]

I wore a low cut bra under my garb for years. I know, no corset, but this is not garb that requires one (I used to be 320 pounds). She's going to show a great amount of cleave no matter what, and they make bras to have very low cleavage.

[verymerryseamstress]

Nancy wrote: (I used to be 320 pounds)

You go, girl!  Congrats to you!  You look FABULOUS!   

[Trillium]

The only bad part about the bras that are low in the front center, is that you can fall out if you lean over too much.  I have one of those that I rarely wear because of that.  One with a little more of a scallop cut on the cups that will push everything upward will help.

[LadyStitch]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the best position for boning woudl be center front, under each breast and beside. Should I also bone the back?

Gormmets or Hook and eyes?

[isabelladangelo]

I really do not think a bra is the answer.   (of course, I'm from the camp that garb and bras =/=)

I realize my earlier suggestion might not have been clear.  I'm thinking a bodice like this:
http://heim.ifi.uio.no/~thomas/lists/images/xena01.jpg
but without the metal and then adding a piece of leather or fur across the front of it.  

[Trillium]

I believe there should be boning in the center front, then I think diagonals along the front, and I've read to put in the sides and back for smoothness.

[broadwaygal24601]

I just have to throw in there that I understand the frustration...most of my costumes that I make directly from a pattern don't fit the lower if they fit the upper and vice versa.  Good idea about building off a bra...I think I'm gonna do that for my Giselle wedding dress for the top part.  Just get a cheap bra in my size and go from there.

[LadyStitch]

I realize my earlier suggestion might not have been clear.  I'm thinking a bodice like this:
http://heim.ifi.uio.no/~thomas/lists/images/xena01.jpg
but without the metal and then adding a piece of leather or fur across the front of it.  

I showed a simular design to my boss and she loved it.  Hopefully the girl won't compain that she wanted a different look.  Thanks for the help everyone.  Some one who is cleavage challanged is not always sure how to help those who are endowed.