Erg! Attaching skirt to bodice with V waist?

[gem]

UPDATE: New problems, post 4

My dyscalculia is rearing its ugly head today!  Thanks to help from Centuries, I have finally gotten up the nerve to attach my kirtle skirt to the kirtle bodice. I'm cartridge pleating most of the skirt, but I'm leaving the front section flat, where it attaches to the V of the bodice (bad picture of skirt pinned over bodice here.)

But I'm at the point of actually sewing the bodice to the skirt, and I can't wrap my brain around how to do it.  I started with something like this:



But when you put them right sides together, you get this:


(The top section is the skirt; the yellow basting is the bodice point; the faint purple line is the seamline for the skirt.)

...And I can't figure out how to sew those two triangles together!  I'm sure it's simple, but my brain doesn't work this sort of thing out naturally.

Help?

Gramercy!!

[CenturiesSewing]

Few different ways to do it.

Fold the bottom of the bodice seam allowances in and press or baste down, then set the bodice point over the V of the skirt (right sides are both facing toward you) and hand stitch through all the layers with a small back stitch. When you put your lining in the skirt V will be sandwiched between the bodice and lining.

If you want to machine it start from the upper left of the skirt, place the bodice and skirt right sides together then sew down toward the V, when you get to the point take two small stitches and then with the needle down pivot the piece and go up the other side.

It is almost like inserting a gore.

[gem]

Thank you!!!  That bit about it being gore-like was exactly what I needed to hear. After stepping away from it for a while, it did start percolating in my mind that you sew one side first, slit the S/A, and then sew the other side.  It took two tries, but I got it on *and* managed to match/center the pattern on the damask!

Hope to have progress pix in the ongoing thread maybe tomorrow.

[CenturiesSewing]

Yay! 

[gem]

Well, I'm still having issues with the kirtle waist seam. 

The first time I got everything lined up really well, but it had this funky bubble:



I thought it was b/c the skirt needed to be pulled up half an inch or so to smooth everything out.

But after unpicking it, I can't seem to get it back on again. Pulling the skirt up *did* help smooth out that front wrinkle, but now I'm not sure how/where to put it back together.

Here it is, with the skirt pinned over the bodice and most of the front falling smoothly:



...But you can see some weird bunching/wrinkling where the flat part meets the cartridge pleats. I *think* this means I need to add a few more pleats to the front to take up the difference.

But I can't figure out where/how to sew skirt to bodice in front. Where it's currently pinned is nowhere near the bodice seam allowance. I thought taking it off the form and looking the inside would help, but it didn't. At all. 

I am 99% certain that I will/need to do this by hand, but I can't figure out how to get a nice crisp V at the bottom edge of the bodice. And that also doesn't tell me what to do about the excess width (smooshing into the cartridge pleats) or length of the skirt.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[CenturiesSewing]

Gem, this is a case where you need to listen to the fabric.

Take in the excess fabric where the pleats are, then I'd hand sew the point of the bodice down over the skirt, double check everything and then trim away the excess skirt fabric.

[gem]

Jenn, I like the way you think! That's a very reasonable and picture-able explanation that was pretty much what I had in mind, but wasn't sure how to do.