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I need help picking fabric.

Started by Keno, June 04, 2011, 06:55:41 PM

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Keno

I think I'm finally ready to make a cloak for me, the one I have currently is too shiny and thin for the uses I need.  I need it to help with the cold and light rain.  I'm still trying to decide on a color but all I don't want is it sparkling or shiny.. I really don't want to be chased by faeries trying to add more glitter.   But back on topic..  What type of fabric can and should use?  Maybe I will be lucky enough to have it ready by the faire.
This years travels 2013

Performing
Travelers Cross Faire in Strang, Oklahoma

Vending
Iowa Renaissance Festival in Amana Colonies, Iowa
Iowa-Minnesota Pirate Festival in Clear Lake, Iowa
Des Moines Renaissance Faire in Des Moines, iowa

operafantomet

Quote from: Keno on June 04, 2011, 06:55:41 PM
I think I'm finally ready to make a cloak for me, the one I have currently is too shiny and thin for the uses I need.  I need it to help with the cold and light rain.  I'm still trying to decide on a color but all I don't want is it sparkling or shiny.. I really don't want to be chased by faeries trying to add more glitter.   But back on topic..  What type of fabric can and should use?  Maybe I will be lucky enough to have it ready by the faire.

I would personally choose wool of some sort, or a mix of wool and a synthetic fabric.

Historical cloaks meant for traveling and foul weather were often made of a wool boiled or soaked in hot water so it shrinked (think felt). The fabric was often also waterproofed with grease or oils. Plus, an additional short cloak over the shoulders, often with hood, was worn. So the fabric alone wasn't what kept the wearer warm and dry.

I don't know how waterproof you need your version to be, but I would avoid linen and also synthetics if the goal is to stay warm. Linen is great for warm days, though. It breathes and cools the skin. In general I would go for a fabric that is tight and drapes well, but which is not too heavy. I know velvet gives a lovely look, but I personally find it too heavy. Ditto for brocades - keep the fabrics on the plainer side, and add nice details instead.

You could for example the opening with fur, be it real or fake. Something like this:
http://www.honeysucklefurs.co.uk/images/products/20/BLACK%20VELVET%20AND%20FUR%20CLOAK%20webpic%20detail.jpg

Do you plan to line the cloak?

Keno

I want to line it but I'm not going to go over board til I know what I want.  I'm not going to trim it with fur I was hoping to add a old tradition to it with a summer fur cover.  Its like a..  I really can't remember what they are called right now but it a very short cloak.. slightly below the shoulders that tips down the spine above the tailbone.  Its my cute little summer cover.   But back to what I'm making I don't think it needs to be really waterproof but I want it to handle alittle bit of rain while I'm helping friends pack the leather up.  I just don't want it soaking it up like a sponge.  I shouldn't have to worry about it being too cold, it just cold in the morning and as I remember it only snowed once..  Its mostly for ending of summer to fall weather.  My mate wants me to make it reversible but I don't think I have the skill.
This years travels 2013

Performing
Travelers Cross Faire in Strang, Oklahoma

Vending
Iowa Renaissance Festival in Amana Colonies, Iowa
Iowa-Minnesota Pirate Festival in Clear Lake, Iowa
Des Moines Renaissance Faire in Des Moines, iowa

gem

What about wool flannel lined with plaid cotton flannel? That would be nice and cozy!  I made my rain cloak from waterproof sueded microfiber, that same wonderful stuff ready-to-wear mundane raincoats are made from. It's lined in satin and is good for heavy rains and is surprisingly warm.

As for making it reversible--if you have the skill to make a cloak, you absolutely have the skill to make it reversible! 

1. Make two cloaks--one from each fabric.
2. Hang them up for at least 24 hours to let them fall/stretch as much as they're going to.
3. Put them together, right sides together, and sew around all the edges, leaving an opening of a few inches in the center bottom back.
4. Trim your seam allowances, turn through the opening, and press. Hand sew the opening closed neatly, using small stitches or the ladder stitch.

That's it! The hardest bit is pinning the cloak and lining together (finding enough room and enough pins!).

Keno

Thanks I didn't know it was that easy and I understand about room and pins...
This years travels 2013

Performing
Travelers Cross Faire in Strang, Oklahoma

Vending
Iowa Renaissance Festival in Amana Colonies, Iowa
Iowa-Minnesota Pirate Festival in Clear Lake, Iowa
Des Moines Renaissance Faire in Des Moines, iowa

Kate XXXXXX

I'd probably go for a wool gabardine: it's woven for this use.  The surface is very fine tight diagonal ribs, rather like drill, down which the water rolls off.  You can further waterproof it by using a Nikwax spray on the outer surface,

Originally, for outer wear and water resistance, it was made with oiled wool: the lanolin removed from the wool as part of the process of cleaning and preparing the raw fleece for spinning and weaving was added back in as part of the finishing process.  The oil, combined with the weave, kept most rain off.  And yes, extra shoulder capes were added for further protection, usually to men's riding cloaks.

As a child, wool gabardine coats were frequently a part of my school uniform.  I don't remember them leaking much, and I always walked to school, whatever the weather.  In winter they had button in waistcoat-like quilted linings for warmth.  The style was that of the classic trench coat.

Keno

This years travels 2013

Performing
Travelers Cross Faire in Strang, Oklahoma

Vending
Iowa Renaissance Festival in Amana Colonies, Iowa
Iowa-Minnesota Pirate Festival in Clear Lake, Iowa
Des Moines Renaissance Faire in Des Moines, iowa