Help with surface design (Fleur Delacour's Wedding dress)

[ArielCallista]

So at some point I will be making Fleur Delacour's wedding dress from Harry Potter


This is the dress I'm referring to...


I'm not worried at all whatsoever about the dress itself or the ruffles or basically any of it that is white. What I'm curious about is how in the world do you guys suggest I go about doing the black phoenixes I was at a con recently and someone cut it out of velvet and bless her heart it looked terrible. It was a good idea, but the design is just too intricate for that. I think it was probably actually made but someone making 2 giant appliques. Like custom make lace work in that design, but that would be incredibly expensive wouldn't it? Embroidery would take FOREVER and break my hands...lol...I don't need carpal tunnel again lol...any other creative suggestions. If embroidery is my best bet so be it. I plan on knowing about a year before I'll actually need it...so time won't be an issue, but money will be...

so...suggestions?

[Syrilla]

One thought, do an almost flocking method.  Have a base white material, then "glue" or some type of adhesive the design.  Apply the black, self sealing fabric. Maybe a micro suede.

[ArielCallista]

I think thats about what the girl did with velvet...velvet definitely couldn't handle being cutout that much...Do you think something like microsuede would handle it ok? I'm not really worried about figuring out how to attach something...at least not near as concerned as I am about making the thing to attach...

[gem]

What about cutting it from lace yardage? You wouldn't get it to match exactly, of course--I think you're right that it's custom-made lace--but it would give you a better foundation and drape than trying to cut all that openwork out of something solid. There are SO many different lacework patterns; you could probably get off to a good start by combining various cuts and appliques depending on the part of the design you're working with. The birds will be the hardest part, but if you managed most of the overlay with some ready-made yardage, you could concentrate on figuring out how to craft the more intricate and recognizable birds by hand.

I know Viking makes an embroidery unit that does cutwork lace (Battenburg, etc), so I'm sure it's possible to make those birds, but as you said, money is an issue.... However, a lot of people who have embroidery machines do sell their work to help defray the costs of the machines and supplies. You might be able to hook up with someone who could make those appliques for you. Check etsy, your local Viking dealer, the Pattern Review forums, etc.

Good luck!

[Rani Zemirah]

You might try searching for the appliques...  They're huge, I know... but it had to come from somewhere, right? 


This one is only 5 1/8 x 16 1/4... but it's at least in the same family.


Combined with other appliques... like this:


Or you could do the embroidery yourself by putting together several patterns...

There are lots to choose from...

[Auryn]

First- I adored that dress the moment I saw it on screen.
Personally I don't think they used lace or anything else attached to the fabric.
If you look at her silhouette at her hips and waist, there is no texture or raised effect showing.
Personally I think they were hand painted onto the fabric.

[DonaCatalina]

You might try searching for the appliques...  They're huge, I know... but it had to come from somewhere, right? 


This one is only 5 1/8 x 16 1/4... but it's at least in the same family.


Combined with other appliques... like this:


Or you could do the embroidery yourself by putting together several patterns...

There are lots to choose from...

I think Rani's on the right track. It looks like a peacock applique with other bits of black lace and several addtional tail sections added to change the effect and make it larger.
Check out these sites too.

http://www.laceheaven.com/beadpearands.h...
http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/c...
http://www.atreasurenest.com/default.aspx

[Rani Zemirah]

Hmmm... online it says it's a lace overlay.

[LadyStitch]

I think Rani's on the right track. It looks like a peacock applique with other bits of black lace and several additional tail sections added to change the effect and make it larger.
Check out these sites too.

http://www.laceheaven.com/beadpearands.h...
http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/c...
http://www.atreasurenest.com/default.aspx

I agree with Donna and Rani.  If it was me I would find a peacock applique, and then find or make "feathers" to layer out.  It reminds me of the "petal dress" a friend of mine had to make for a production of Faust. She made a base applique by stitching on netting to get the bird's head, then made "petals"  by using tulle and doing a tight overlock stitch on the cut edge. Same sort of principal.

[Auryn]

I looked it up while I was having breakfast- instead of going for my run
it is lace.
apparently there is a big stink because its almost identical to a 2008 Steve McQueen dress.
I couldn't find any close ups to look at the texture but it looks like its all one giant lace piece.
Personally I think that individual lace feathers would give it a more interesting look.

Besides hiring a bunch of old swiss ladies to do it by hand I don't have any suggestions other than the ones you've gotten here.

If you were close to LA I would say stalk the fashion district and I bet you could find the individual pieces of lace applique to make it.

[Adriana Rose]

I have seen some silk/velvet scarves with peacocks on them.

That is a fabulous dress!

besides that I would try to play with some black lace to make it look like the design.

[ArielCallista]

what about cutting out the overall shape from lace and embroidering the outlining...there would prolly be more embroidery on the front near the top parts of the birds, but it would mostly lace with feather outlines on the back skirt part...Does that make sense? Do you guys think that might work out ok? or is embroidering on lace a terrible idea? I would probably hand embroider it, cuz my machine is a sewing machine that does some embroidery as well, but its all really small stuff...good for initials on towels and polos, but not something of that scale...

Also if I do that does anyone know of a lace that isn't super floral? maybe even something with a sort of feathery design?

[Rani Zemirah]

Quick search gives these:





You can click the links...


I think Auryn might be right that this could probably be painted onto the dress easier than trying to assemble it. 

[Rani Zemirah]

OMG!!!  I think I found it!!  Well, something you can use for the tail section, anyway... and there's over 10 yards of it available!!! 




It's charcoal colored, but I would imagine it would dye black, most likely... it's a really decent price, also, and you could piece it up to build your dress once you find the right main peacock applique.  I sent you a PM with the link...   

[Delireus]

You could learn how to tat ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatting ) . I don't know how long it would take, but maybe combined with the lace appliques, you could create exactly what you want.

[ArielCallista]

I was thinking using fabric lace, if there's a sort of feathery design. Not really a lace trim. My sewing machine does have a port to plug in various embroidery patterns things...any clue where I get them or how much? Cuz if I had some feather designs that would help out a ton!

I'm afraid painting it just wouldn't look good enough...I'm hoping this will be my actual wedding dress when the time eventually comes...I would rather spend more money and it turn out better

[ArielCallista]

I was considering posting on etsy alchemy about looking for someone to do custom lace work or whatever to make the two birds for me but it looks like its been taken down. No more alchemy

I did find two possibilities...maybe...

For the feathery tail bits using...
This:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Elegant-French-Designer-Lace-Yardage-66-Wide-Black-/350274274455#vi-content

or this:


and then going and embroidering outlines of separate feathers on them and for the birds' bodies using an applique like this one that Rani posted:



the main issue with that being the fact that there are two birds facing each other so I either have to find one that comes facing either way or one thats reversible or whatever so I can just flip it over and it still look good...

does that make sense? does it sound like a good idea?

[ArielCallista]

Or I could use these peacocks and dye them black...

[Rani Zemirah]

I did see those on the same site, as well, and the dye idea occurred to me, particularly since they don't have the sequins...  And you could use some sort of trim on their heads to mimic the phoenix feathers, as well.  I wonder if they're all cotton, or at least something that will take a dye?

[ArielCallista]

I can't find if they are cotton or what, but several have been dyed and are being sold on etsy. So I bet it wouldn't be an issue at all to dye them. Of course no one seems to have dyed them black so I will have to do it myself instead of buying one someone else already dyed lol...

[Rani Zemirah]

Just use extra concentrated dye, and leave them soaking for a couple of days, maybe...

[ArielCallista]

check this out

http://www.cosplay.com/photo/2994441/

So it looks as tho I can use lace and it look good! I probably will still do outlines of feathers just to make them pop...but I now have full confidence it can work...Its not completely screen accurate but it still looks beautiful and most people who have seen the films won't notice that its inaccurate...

[Cilean]

It looks like machine made batternburg lace. so I would get a large square piece of foam board, and a lot of pins, and draw out each of your Phoenix, and use linen thread or 60 wt cotton thread and well make the lace!

Some Suggestions
http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/BeginGuide.html

http://www.laceguild.demon.co.uk/ylm/stitches.html

http://www.free-craft-patterns.com/battenberg-and-point-lace.html

http://www.smockingstore.com/battenburg.html


Also? You could paint on the Phoenixes! I think that would look awesome and give a great look!


The lady? Cut Velvet? Wow, that is amazing, I would have used some Water Solvable Stabilizer and used a very small rope and sew it to the design and then soak in water and you will have a lace detail.

I hope these help!

Cilean