corset boning

[Betty Munro]

Syrilla, 2 corsets made from the corset generator pattern?  Or two (of what pattern, do tell) with straw boning?

[jackrocks]

Ok, I think I have done something incorrectly.

The front looks good, but the back rounds at the top and comes down to a point at the bottom. Looking at some pics on the forum, it seems like the back center opening should be more squarish and straight? Not rounded at the top?

Also, I have probably 2-3 inches left over on each side of the back opening, when I just wrap it around me...is that supposed to be there? or should I trim it down?

[isabelladangelo]

Ok, I think I have done something incorrectly.

The front looks good, but the back rounds at the top and comes down to a point at the bottom. Looking at some pics on the forum, it seems like the back center opening should be more squarish and straight? Not rounded at the top?

Also, I have probably 2-3 inches left over on each side of the back opening, when I just wrap it around me...is that supposed to be there? or should I trim it down?

Pictures, please?   I don't want to say one thing when the problem is something else completely.   Pictures help greatly.

[Betty Munro]

You should have 2 - 3 inches of gap, not extra.  (Squish factor)
I have been known to modify a pattern, so I can't be sure if I changed the back.  I remember I did make the front bottom longer (to cover my tummy better).  Anyway, the back of mine (corset pattern generator corset) does come to a point at the bottom and kind of has a very shallow heart shape on the top.  I'll get a picture in a few minutes.  Don't cut anything yet - post pictures for us first.

[Betty Munro]

Although mine is far from perfect, it can at least serve to give you some reference.  I have to dress myself for faire, so I made the lacing in the front.  The middle of the corset is the back.  You can see it comes to a point on the bottom, and the slight curve at the top.  I hope it helps some.

[jackrocks]

ok, I have the paint sticks to make the busk for the bodice, now how do I turn the paint sticks into the busk....do they go in separately, or attached? straight down the front, right?

thanks.

[Rowan MacD]

Although mine is far from perfect, it can at least serve to give you some reference.  I have to dress myself for faire, so I made the lacing in the front.  The middle of the corset is the back.  You can see it comes to a point on the bottom, and the slight curve at the top.  I hope it helps some.

Sorry to jump in, but did you build this corset to have a busk in front, and what did you use? 
    at some point I will need to make a front lacing corset,  since my hubby has arthritis in his hands and lacing me up in back (first the corset, then the dress) hurts him.

[Syrilla]

Betty M, I have done both.  But the two corsets I was talking about are based on the effigy corsets. 

[Betty Munro]

ok, I have the paint sticks to make the busk for the bodice, now how do I turn the paint sticks into the busk....do they go in separately, or attached? straight down the front, right?

I have not done a corset with a busk, but I do know for sure that they go right down the front.  You are correct.  I assume you use 2 paint sticks because just 1 would possibly snap.  I think I would use wood glue to permanently join them together, then cut with a saw (trying to curve the edges as much as possible to prevent digging into my flesh), then sand sand sand as smooth as possible.  If you plan to wash your corset, then you will need to make the busk removeable.  I don't know the process for that.

Syrilla, I LOVE my effigy based corset - but it laces up the back, so until I find an official corset lacer, I can't wear it.

Rowen, my corset generator pattern corset does not have a busk, it laces up the front.  It does have (plastic cable tie) boning on both sides of the grommets.

[gem]

I skipped the busk called for in my Simplicity corset, because I lacked the skills and equipment to do the woodworking. I just boned it straight across, and haven't noticed a difference in silhouette or support.



You should be able to alter an existing corset to allow for front lacing. Just cut up the center, bind the edges, and add your eyelets. Or you could use a front-hooking Victorian busk to make it even easier: https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/products.php?cat=busk

In the meantime, you can spare your DH some pain by pre-lacing as much as you can. That's how I get into a couple of mine. Using long laces, put the corset on backward (leaving the straps down), and lace it up yourself, just tightly enough that it stays up. Then twist it around to the back, and then all your DH has to do is tighten everything up. If it's spiral-laced with a long enough cord, you might even be able to do that yourself, too.

[Betty Munro]

How is the corset coming jackrocks?  If you need help getting pictures posted to the forum I can help you.  PM me.  Your experience making your first corset can make or break subsequent attempts.  We can never have to many home garbers to bounce ideas around, so we are all rooting for you!

[Butch]

How you make the busk removeable is to make the busk tunnel a pocket with the opening at the bottom.  Then, add two grommets at the bottom.  Place the busk in the pocket, mark the two grommet holes onto the busk, remove the busk and drill two holes that correspond with the grommeted holes in the corset.  When you put the busk in, secure it with a ribbon through the aligned holes.

I paraphrased this from the Reconstructing History patterns.

I never thought of just not making a busk channel!  When I've made my pairs of bodies, I've always used a softer busk; I used a piece of thick cotton webbing (a web belt, actually).  It works great!

[jackrocks]

Hi, thanks! Its coming along. this was supposed to be my relaxing week off school, right? So we started off last week with a little 2 day trip to the west side of MI, and it was great. Came home and Monday morning woke up to find our truck had been vandalized, some little idiots took my own rocks and smashed out the windows. grr. Of course, once it was in the shop to fix, they found more wrong with it. Then we got some more aggravating news. Its just been a bummer week. So I havent had the calm and relaxing week of project working that I wanted.

But, things are slowing back down now and yesterday, I decided, after lots of reading, that I should probably have more than two layers of fabric. So I added another red canvas-y layer, and a piece of white, stiff material from the stash for the back ( I got thinking maybe the layer that goes towards my white chemise should probably not be red).

Of course, once I got it all together and sat down to work, the machine kept knotting thread in a very aggravating fashion. Eventually, I changed the needle and that made things better

So yesterday I got the four layers put together, I got the waistline and back edges sewn together and that went well. I have started to make lines for the busk, and measuring that out. Today I want to get those channels, at least, done.  I do have a busk question....is the busk supposed to point at the bottom and fit into the little "v" point of the bodice front? I asked my husband for the saw and some sandpaper last night and he was confused:) but said he'll go find me some today in the garage where the tool-ish things are....and I have no idea where they would be. I want to sew the front boning channels and then, if it still seems too long in the back, I'll cut some. Im just scared to cut too early....you cant grow more material once its off!

My material is plain, but I have plans for some lace and beads in the stash:) to pretty it up. I am excited and hope it fits well. Im not what anyone would call "petite" and I hope it comes out not slouchy and holds up "the girls" well:) I am going to use a lot of boning bc I really dont want it to look slouchy/lumpy.

Is it fine to not use grommets and just make eyelets instead?
thanks for all the help, Im sure I'll have more questions as I get further, you guys are great.

[Betty Munro]

I don't know about the busk, so I'll leave that to the more experienced. 
About the boning channels.  My opinion, if you use the heavy duty duct ties, make 5/8 " boning channels and put in as many as you can.  You don't want the boning to be squeezed it too tight.  I start from the front middle and work all the way around to the back.  Then from the front middle and go around the other way.  (Or in this case, on either side of your busk.)  I have seen lots of angled boning, (need some input here), but I don't know the "rules" for the angles, so I just go straight up and down all the way around.  It works for me.  I will skip a few bones on the sides and back, but the front really needs to be fully boned.  I consider it bodice armor.  I have tried going with less boning thinking it would be more comfortable, but the truth is the more support (boning) the more comfortable, and simply, the better it looks.  You can see in gem's pair of bodies/corset/bodice that it is fully boned.  That's the way to go.  I can usually bone 2 corsets with a pack of duct ties, but I'm a size 12/14 (which, btw is an 18/20 in Simplicity patterns).  If you get 1 corset out of a pack of zip ties then it is still quite cost effective.  If you end up hating this bodice and make a 2nd (improved) bodice, then you can always cut the boning out and re-use it.

What do you mean by "make eyelets"?  Hand sew around the holes?  I think that would be more h/a, but will take a long time, and has to be done by hand.  We definitely have ladies here that do that!  I'm lazy, so I go with the grommets.  Whatever you do, don't use metal eyelets.  (They look like grommets, but are only one piece, and generally smaller.  They will not hold up to the strain of a corset and will soon pull out of the fabric.  You can't get grommets at the fabric/craft store.  You have to get them from the hardware store.

[jackrocks]

yeah, thats what I meant by "eyelets". Just buttonhole stitch around the hole. I just wondered if it would be pull once its laced up:)


I am doing the boning right now. so far, so good.