Bead Elastic For Keeping French Hood in Place

[pynquerose27]

This method may be old news, but I found it very successful when making my Tudor garb (Elizabeth of Abbotsford) a couple of years ago. I sewed on 1/4 inch wide elastic at the bottom points of the French hood to hold the hood in place in BACK of my head.  Then I stitched on 2 or 3 rows of transparent elastic thread (the kind used to string bead bracelets) to put in FRONT of my head. 

http://s1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff400/pinquerose27/RF%20Garb/?action=view&current=1.jpg

The bead elastic is invisible under the chin, but holds the hood firmly in place.  (In fact, it even gives a bit of a double chin lift!)

I style my hair, put on a hairnet, and insert my head into the French hood between the rows of elastic (regular elastic to the back; transparent to the front). Then I pull back the hood, fastening it into place with combs I have sewn into the fabric. Since my hair is fine, I also add bobby pins.  My French hood would withstand a hurricane!

The only warning is DO NOT MAKE THE ELASTICS TOO TIGHT!

[isabelladangelo]

I just make a coif beneath my hood, sew the hood to the coif, and then have strings on either side of the coif to hold it on -no problems.  I've seen peopel use combs inside the coif or hood to hold it on as well.  My fear with elastic is elastic wears out after a couple of years.

[pynquerose27]

Your method is certainly more historically accurate! 

I've often wondered how our fore-mothers would have reacted to our modern conveniences.  Would they have preferred the traditional way of sewing and laundering by hand, or would they have shouted "Huzzah!" and embraced our sewing & washing machines?

[DonaCatalina]

Elastic does deteriorate over time and has to be replaced. Your method has merit. I tie my french hood at the nape of my neck with picot ribbon.

[isabelladangelo]

Washing machines, yes.  Sewing...maybe.

Because the techniques they used just aren't always compatible to sewing machines, I'm not sure if everyone would jump at the chance or not to have one.  Clothing is a sign of what cultural group you belong to and that itself is actually harder to change than picking up a new tool.  It's why sewing techniques -for us- haven't greatly changed since the advent of the sewing machine!   Most patterns still use darts, similar seam treatments -the cuts have changed over time (although not greatly in the past 40 years)- but how to sew the garment up hasn't. 

Although I haven't gotten to play with any 16th c garments up close and personal, I have with 18th c garments.  The way they did seams was radically different from what we would conceive of today.  A lining piece for a gown had the edges of the lining pattern piece folded over and sewn down.  It wasn't sewn to the adjacent lining piece until the facing piece (with it's edges folded over too but not sewn down) were pressed together.  Then the two facing pieces and two lining pieces were all whipped stitched together to form a seam -all the edges neatly tucked inside.   You can't do that nicely on a sewing machine and it honestly takes incredibly little time (whip stitching is easy!) by hand.   

I hope that makes sense.  And probably not the answer you were looking for...hmmm....

[Adriana Rose]

I know its not a garment but I have a quilt that my three times aunt made in 1910 and the work on it is amazing! I feel like a slacker when I am looking at the quality.

[pynquerose27]

isabelladangelo, 
How wonderful that you have been able to closely inspect such old garments!  I envy you the experience!  Thank you for sharing your knowledge about how old linings were applied.  It's fascinating learning from someone who has seen & really knows about these things.  That's one of the joys of message boards-- you can learn from so many knowledgeable people, whom you wouldn't have the opportunity to meet otherwise!

I really wasn't looking for a particular answer, because there probably isn't just ONE.  I suppose it would depend on the individual ForeMom.  Some might embrace new technology & ideas. Others would shun them for various reasons -- pride in the beauty of their craftsmanship; the comfort factor of being more familiar with the old ways....  There would probably be just as many different reactions as there were women!


DonaCatalina,
Picot ribbon is a great idea -- It's probably a lot less slippery than the regular kind!


Adriana Rose,
My dear Grandma and Great Grandma used to hand-make quilts, too, at about that time.  As you say, the quality is amazing!  I could never hope to match their level of craftsmanship. 

I really admire those of you who take the time to learn and do things in the traditional way!