Do these cartridge pleats make my butt look big?

[gem]

Or, re-pleating a skirt that's already completely finished. Has anyone done this?

I just tried on my 99% finished curved-front/corded-bodice dress to try out the hem length, and I'm not convinced about the cartridge pleats. They look incredibly bulky to me, like I have this tiny torso and a HUGE lower half (it's just for this particular dress; the CPs on my purple kirtle look awesome). So I'm thinking of taking the skirt off and re-pleating it (at some point; not today--still hoping to *wear* this tomorrow!). I like the box pleats on my avatar dress a lot, even tho' they're a PITA to do, and my 18th c. petticoats are all knife-pleated (divide & conquer method), which was actually something I'd considered for the kirtle.

Anyway, it's not so much choosing the other pleats, but the process of taking the skirt apart and re-doing it. I've never done such a major alteration on a gown before. This is also the first dress I've made where the entire bodice was completely finished (no raw edges) before I attached the skirt. That works for cartridge pleats; would it work for other pleats, or do you need a seam allowance to attach the skirt to?

Also, I was intending to put guards on the skirt (when the twill tape finally gets here); will that be affected if I change out the pleats? Will the length of the hem be affected?

Is there anything else I need to know?

Help?

Gramercy!!

[CenturiesSewing]

Are the cartridge pleats standing out from the bodice or are they settling into your lower back?
How much skirt do you have pleated down? Because there is such a thing as too much skirt. 

[gem]

It's 3.5 yards, and I have a 28" waist... but that's the same as what's in my avatar dress (you can see the skirt here), and the same as what I used for the Much Ado skirts. It has really nice volume at the ankle, though. And hemming gores... bleh.

I would say that the skirt fullness actually starts right below the pleats (the pleats themselves are pretty vertical). I am planning on pulling out the threads holding the pleats in place, since I knotted them off too tightly and can't close the skirt gap  . Will that help?

[CenturiesSewing]

Taking out the pleating thread should help them relax a bit, a few other options that come to mind.

You could try picking up the front of your skirt while you have it on, so the pleats stand out at horizontal, and tightening the bodice to see if that closes the gap a bit.

It does look like you have a bit too much skirt pleated down to the bodice, You can unpick the first inch or so on one side and make that into a placket.

[Goody]

Why do u consider box pleats a pita?? I do them cuz i think they're the easiest. Just curious

[gem]

I love them--they're my favorite in terms of looks--but they take so much measuring, calculating, and trial and error to get them to fit the length you're pleating down to. Why? Do you have a secret method that will save me all that?

[DonaCatalina]

Since I do mostly pre-1550 garb, cartridge pleats aren't really part of my world. Not to mention that I don't like how they look.
I do a version of box pleating or knife pleating like that found on Eleanor's burial gown.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I've never found box pleats any more of a pain than any other sort.  I just use the divide and conquer method for those too...

[Marietta Graziella]

Gem, I had the same problem with my cartridge pleating... too tight!  Once I relaxed the pleating threads it looked so much better but ultimately, cartridge pleats are supposed to make your butt look bigger.  *shrug* That was the fashion. I'd unpleat the front couple of inches on each side of your bodice opening to soften the look in the front, though.

As for the back, slip on a bum roll and enjoy! 

[Goody]

Why do u consider box pleats a pita?? I do them cuz i think they're the easiest. Just curious

my first try I had everyone at a work meeting trying to do the math. ending up just pinning til it was right.

I pin front edges (of skirt to bodice). Then pin center back. Then pin middle between front and back pins on both sides. Then pin middles between all pins until all fabric is attached. Finally, fold the "loops" of fabric in whichever direction I want them to go, flipping to front to visually see that they are how I want. No math necessary!! Hope this makes sense?!?

[TiaLD77]

Box Pleats! box pleats!....errr well I do everything in Box pleats because I think Cartridge pleats are a PITA....

[LadyFae]

Why do u consider box pleats a pita?? I do them cuz i think they're the easiest. Just curious

my first try I had everyone at a work meeting trying to do the math. ending up just pinning til it was right.

I pin front edges (of skirt to bodice). Then pin center back. Then pin middle between front and back pins on both sides. Then pin middles between all pins until all fabric is attached. Finally, fold the "loops" of fabric in whichever direction I want them to go, flipping to front to visually see that they are how I want. No math necessary!! Hope this makes sense?!?

That's pretty much how I do it too!

[LadyFae]

Wait, so Big Butts are a BAD thing?!?!?!? 
         

[Adriana Rose]

Annnd now I have the Big Butts song jammed into my head

By the by you look great!

[operafantomet]

Wait, so Big Butts are a BAD thing?!?!?!? 
         

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx263/ahahmomof3/Various%20days%20with%20just%20the%20girls/BigButtKissesBaby.jpg

That made me laugh SO MUCH. LOVE! And no, big butt is da shiner bock in Renaissance skirts. 

[Syrilla]

That's not big.... This is BIG!    And it is cartridge pleated.

[Magpie Flynn]

That's not big.... This is BIG!    And it is cartridge pleated.

Holy crap! That is magnificent!!!

[Norfolk]

Most impressive, Your Majesty!     

[CenturiesSewing]

A sail! A sail! 

[Syrilla]

On windy days, all I needed was a pair of wheels and I could have been across the faire in no time with that getup

[Lady Gryphon]

I have been lucky enough to see your fine wear up close and personal.  I always wondered who made it.  Now I'm really impressed.  You are not only a fine HRH Elizabeth I, but a magnificent seamstress.