Reconstructive bodice surgery

[Alisoun]

Hello all!

Once upon a time (two weeks ago), I made a corded bodice, and was very excited to wear it because it was so comfortable. However, it seems that comfort and function did not mesh well after a few hours at faire.



Ignoring the last minute grommet placement (I ran out, so I still need to install three pairs), that unsightly crease needs to go.

Some information about the bodice...
I adapted the pattern from the corset pattern generator, adding about an inch to bring it slightly below the natural waist and adding some width to the front. It is "boned" with jute cording except for the two center channels, which have cable ties. The boning is sandwiched between two layers of canvas, with the linen interlining and fashion fabric on top.

I would love your suggestions for fixing this poor bodice, if there is any hope.
Am I too...ahem...endowed for cording? I'm also short waisted, still nursing, and should stop eating Honey Buns, so I'll face the facts if I need to replace the boning.
Should I shorten the front? During wear (especially sitting), it did feel as if my stomach was making a cubby for itself.

Thanks in advance for any feedback that you can provide!

[gem]

I'm interested to hear the responses, because you are the second person I've seen in recent days to complain about this issue (and also b/c I'm about to debut my own hemp-corded dress this afternoon! And I have a corded corset I haven't worn yet.). The other was a woman who made a Campi-styled gown that also "gave way" as the day went on (her blog about it is here). I believe she also used jute cording, so I wonder if that's a factor.

This probably has absolutely no bearing on your issue, but I'm throwing it out there, just in case it helps at all. When I was making my corded dress--oddly enough, also two weeks ago!--I started to get worried about the fit, b/c I made the corded panels last year and I feel like I've changed sizes a teeny bit since then... so instead of doing lacing eyelets in the bodice like I intended to, I did lacing rings, thus giving myself an extra 1/2"-3/4" of room. BAD IDEA!! It still looks really cute, but I can already tell I'm going to be wearing it with a bra instead of letting it do the job it was designed for. I wonder if adding some of that extra room in the front panel is part of the issue for you, too.

Another thought I had... you might consider trying to angle some of the boning instead of having it all vertical (although that's not probably something you can do with this particular model, alas). I think another key for us who are well-endowed (particularly if we are also thin) is that we MUST be able to get the bodice *very* snug under the bust in order to keep the support, but it's really hard to do that *and* keep the flat line in front. Have you ever thought about trying a curved-front bodice? The curve follows the line of the bust, getting nice and snug below, which allows for that extra support. I finally figured out how that works last summer when Silverstah posted her hand-sewn Italian working-class dress. You can see what the curve looks like in this picture. I've been really impressed with the support it gives (when, you know, you don't make it too big. Sigh.).

As for surgery on your current bodice, would it help to slice it up the back, remove an inch+ of width, and then add a second set of lacing?

[operafantomet]

I second everything Gem said (lazy, I know...).

I also think you should try a trick for an eventual new bodice: curved front over the bust. I lack good English terminology and also good sewing skills to explain this well, but I might be able to show it through pictures.

Like you, I have some decent "ladies" in front. What I did for one of my latest bodices was to make the front panels of the bodice curved. The front panels are the big ones here, in the lower center section:



This will support and lift your ladies, while still allowing a narrow waist with few or no bulks. I don't think any of the pictures of me wearing it shows it that well, but still:



This method was even applied to dresses of the Middle Ages, to allow the narrow waists and full bosoms seen in depictions. Not sure this change can be done to your current bodice, as long as you've put grommets in. But it's something to keep in mind for future projects.

What you could do, however, is to sew two front panels a bit smaller than the current ones, bone ti with say rigilene, and stitch it to the inside of the bodice for extra support. But to be honest, I think the current issue is more about the shape of the front - it should not be straight, but curved - than the actual stiffening used. That said, I think you look lovely.

[Trillium]

OK, I'm trying to understand this as I always have the same problem, I cannot make a bodice that can be worn without a bra.  I have the hardest time finding a bra that fits properly too..but that another story...  So the angles in the front pieces straighten out when worn because of our natural curves?  We shouldn't start out with a straight front?

[Adriana Rose]

Maybe you could add another set of cableties near the grommets? To help fight the way your body wants to make the bodice go.

Oh and by the way you rock for wearing a bodice while nursing I couldnt do that I was scared to do it.

[gem]

Yep, Trillium, that's exactly right!  I was just re-reading my post (where I say "it won't help with the flat front"), and realized that the bodice opening will actually APPEAR to be nice and straight up-and-down when you wear it. This costumer has some pictures that show it really well--see how the green guards on the bodice appear to be straight up-and-down vertical on her body? But they actually have a very significant curve to them.

My understanding is that it's the curve + the hemp cord that gives such good support, although I know some people have done corded Effigy stays &c, so there's definitely some mileage variation here.

Alisoun, if you wanted to, you could recut the front panels of your bodice to include this curve. It won't be the totally-flat/Elizabethan-shield-shape, but I think it would help the support.

It's pretty easy to determine what the curve should be--take your bodice block and make a muslin with a 1-2" seam allowance along the front opening, then pin the heck out of it, all the way down your front, following the curve of your bust. Trace that line with a Sharpie (or, you know, something that won't bleed onto whatever you're wearing underneath), then take the whole thing off. True up/smooth out the line you drew, and that's the curve. I usually start this process wearing a bra that approximates the finished silhouette I want (frex, a good sports bra gives a shape similar to the high, round Italian bustline), because it's easier to do if your assets are already in more or less the right place.

[Alisoun]

Thanks, ladies!

As soon as I can give the Husband a quick run-down on pinning safety, I'll get started on a muslin for a curved front bodice. Once I have that done, I'll compare it to the current bodice to decide if I can just re-cut the front or piece it and cover the seams with trim. If not, I'll just remove the cording in the front and wear it over my normal corset.

Adriana Rose, the Little Princess hates it when mommy dresses up because she can't nurse. We're trying to wean, so I didn't think twice about it. I was hoping that the corded bodice would allow for more comfort, which it did.

Thanks again, everyone! I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Betty Munro]

To reconstruct this bodice, I think this case calls for steel boning.  You could add boning with casing added to the inside.  I think they could be hand sewn on through only the interior layer of fabric. 
I've never reconstructed a bodice I wasn't happy with.  I just make another one with improvements.  Or a different pattern.
Speaking of patterns, is it a thread jack to ask operafantomet for her pattern??

[operafantomet]

Speaking of patterns, is it a thread jack to ask operafantomet for her pattern??

Haha! I'm honoured. The pattern for that turquoise bodice is my own draft. Actually, all my projects are. I'm no good with commercial patterns, they never fit me right. So I just gave up on them and started making my own. I work with two basic cuts; one for square, Italian bodices, and one for more curvy Phantom/Victorian costumes. The backs are usually pretty similar, but the front is adapted to whatever costume I'm working on. So... Yeah.

[operafantomet]

As a general rule, square panels gives square bodices, while curved panels gives curved bodices. In the 16th century panels would usually be square/cone cut, to allow the cone shaped bodices, and often with as little as two or three panels. But as mentioned front bodices often got curving panels to give room for the bust. This was common in Mediaeval dresses, but also done in al least "working women outfits" of the 16th century.

I always curve the front panels for general projects (I.E. when not working with a historical pattern). Sometimes I also do it for historical dresses. It might not be necessary if you have a neat and not too bust heavy body, but it does wonders for us curvy gals... Especially if you have a defined waist significantly narrower than bust and hips.

ETA: speaking of amount of panels, did you know that Jean Hunnisett cut the Phoenix dress bodice out of ONE piece of fabric?
http://www.naergilien.info/research/london1/Phoenix/P3290183.JPG

The lining was three pieces, but the fancy fabric was one piece. And it creates a most interesting bias effect in front. The dress was used by Glenda Jackson in "Elizabeth R", and based on this portrait:
http://www.shafe.co.uk/crystal/images/lshafe/Hilliard_Elizabeth_I_the_Phoenix_Portrait_c1575-6.jpg