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I am at a Quandary.

Started by Lady Gryphon, November 14, 2011, 08:40:38 AM

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Lady Gryphon

I am at a Quandary.

Lord Dragon has been approach by a local group to play Captain Teague to their  Jack Sparrow.  And the main thing I head about this character, besides being Keith Richard's of the Stones' is that he has the most awesome coat.

Upon research, I could that the coat was actually made from red damask curtain that the wardrobe ladies at Disney found and the back of the coat, which is never seen, was pieced in with something else.  1st problem,  Second are those beautiful Appliques down the front and the sleeve cuffs.  I was thinking the found other damask, cut out the design, and used those as the appliques, but I could be very wrong.  Any suggests on how this might have been done, would be greatly  appreciated.  We did find something close on e-bay, but the red is all wrong.

I realize I'll never be close to exact, but I'd like to get close if I'm spending the time making this coat.  So Any help would be appreciated.  Also a photo is worth 1000 word, so a snatched a few from the internet. 





Thank you ladies. for any and all help in advance.
Why do I feel like I've worn something like this before?

gem

Well, those two pictures show very different reds, and it can be *very* hard to tell on film what color something is IRL (for example, the cloaks worn by all the major characters in the LOTR films look green on screen, but are actually a silvery grey). So I think you're pretty open with the color.

That said, I had really great luck recently using damask tablecloths from Penney's (for my kirtle). They have two shades of red, and they ship free to JC Penney stores, so there's no risk if neither color works for you.

The appliques are going to be harder. I think if you can find something with the right swirly arabesques, that will be the easiest way to go (but finding the right fabric might prove difficult). Another option would be to find (or draw) out the shapes you like, then enlarge them to full size (project them on a wall and trace them out, or print them out progressively larger). You might have luck doing a Google image search for "Florentine scroll border."

Have fun!

Kate XXXXXX

It looks like a very heavy silk damask.  Such fabric can be found, but is expensive.  You could give it that soft 'old fabric' drape by washing the damask, if you dare.  Contact places like James Hare, Pongees, Henry Bertrand, Beckford Silks here in the UK.  Otherwise, take a look on Ebay or at this if you don't mind it being not real silk: http://www.mikhailpietranek.com/item.php?RecordID=444

I tink cutting and reapplying the motifs would be a very good thing to do to get the effect of that coat.  It is very splendid.

Captain Teague

What we found on ebay and although I realize that pics can be deceiving, the red looks way off. (scroll down the mini pics to see the actual swatch )
As this is a working theatrical troupe I need to be quite fussy on this reproduction, unlike most of my garb. She does awesome work for assorted movies and is a member in great standing on ebay. I am considering contacting her and asking a price if we supply the red material ourselves. (Unless someone here would like to tackle the challenge for some extra money.  ;D I have seen we have some spectacular folks skills around here and would gladly help out a friend sooner than a casual business contact. Lady Gryphon has some skills as well, but has never attempted something like this.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Captain-Teague-Keith-Richards-Jack-Sparrow-POTC-Costume-/300349282128?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ee365750

Someone who made a set for themselves, although they did not get too specific about where they located the items needs. But it does have some good shots of the garb on display at a convention.

http://www.very-faery.com/faery/Sewing/film/teague/index.htm
The Code is the Law...

Adriana Rose

Lighting can change a burgandy into a scarlet color in a snap and then back to the burgandy in another. Tricksie thing.

The bright side of the back never being seen is that you can use the same fabric that you find for the front. The scrolls look like they may be a pain to find, I would try to single out the pattern and print it out and then cut it out and applique it on to the coat. I cant remember if you embroder but to do the design in it I would hazard to stitch the pattern in there as well.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#5
I will be making this very same coat for a client next year for his wedding in August at the Minnesota Renaissance  Festival.

After much time spent on the Internet looking for trims that would work, I came to the conclusion that I would have to draft the Anctus Leaves pattern using various Quilt Stencil designs to get the curves, then trace it out on fabric, then using cloth backed iron on interfacing for backing, making my own trim. I would then have to stitch the trim onto the coat pieces using a small and tight zig zag, or a blanket stitch by hand so that there is no ravelling.

Of course, I have not been able to come across a how-to page as to how Costumer Designer, Penny Rose, made the Captain Teague coat. I will have plenty of the Aztec gold Dupioni Silk to use for the leafy designs.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#6
Looking more closely a the fabric used for the Ancthus leaves, it appears to be a fabric backed light weight vinyl with small cording added at the edges. The vinyl appears to have a tarnished finish to it. Sewn carefully by machine, for the stitching is consistent. Small cording used for the leaf centers to get a more detailed look.

This process will surely take time. Done right, this will look stunning!
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

operafantomet

To me the acanthus motifs looks more like lurex, but definitely with a gold cord around the edges (I'm tempted to say couching). The couching does account for the detailed leaf details the coat has. Very neat.

And look! Those buttons have a circle of animal figures! Lions? Horses? I cannot tell. But FUNKY detail.

operafantomet

My mind started wandering... And I suddenly remembered something I saw in Rome some years ago. In a Baroque church - almost certain it was Chiesa Nuova along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II - the church had taken out some very old wall hangings for a special annual celebration. There must have been 10-12 of them. Textile interested as I am, I had a closer look at them, and noticed they were all a bit different. Some were newer, some were older, judging from the preservation of the textiles. Some were even of opposite colours; red on gold, or gold on red. I guess that if one was damaged by wear and tear someone just copied it and replaced it.

Anyway... acanthus motifs was the most used motif in Baroque church art. So also here. These hangings were made of velvet (some also had damask) but look at the couching and the pattern. And the colours! It does remind quite a bit of the coat of your capt'n.  :)




Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



Yep, operafantomet! The couching and hand sewing is what makes the Teague coat Baroque in style.

For the peak of the Pirate age was at its height by the 1720's. Thus the Baroque influences of the coats and the style of clothing for women.



Late 17th and early 18th century Border designs...


Now we know what influenced Penny Rose when she designed the Captain Teague coat.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

operafantomet

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on November 14, 2011, 02:24:05 PM


Yep, operafantomet! The couching and hand sewing is what makes the Teague coat Baroque in style.
Plus the actual tailoring.  ;D

Kate XXXXXX

There's very little tailoring as we think of it today in these coats.  Occasionally some canvas or linen behind a heavy decoration to give a light weight silk some strength, but none of the layers of horsehair canvas and chest pieces that go into a modern suit.  It's one of the ways they retain their fluidity.

Lady Isabella

Lady Gryphon,
Can't wait to see the finished project.

Captain Teague

Quote from: operafantomet on November 14, 2011, 01:47:48 PM
To me the acanthus motifs looks more like lurex, but definitely with a gold cord around the edges (I'm tempted to say couching). The couching does account for the detailed leaf details the coat has. Very neat.

And look! Those buttons have a circle of animal figures! Lions? Horses? I cannot tell. But FUNKY detail.

Actually they are dogs around the buttons. That link I provided from the person who made one, its author found them someplace on the net. But of course did not reveal where. :P




And again am I deeply and truly impressed. All of you have already in less than a day provided tons of pertinent info, as where I spent hours of online research could only provide a smattering of vague facts and ideas. You all are just too awesome. :)
The Code is the Law...

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

Of course Costume Designers for films do not reveal where they find their gems.

I had emailed  Oscar Winning Costume Designer, Colleen Atwood, a while back inquiring as to where did she find the fabric for the Red Queen's Skirt. She emailed back saying that she clould not divulge that information.

Of course, that is what I need to make the Red Queen the RED QUEEN! The rest I already have.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde