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18th Century Gown Pattern

Started by gusjodi, January 17, 2012, 08:26:56 PM

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gusjodi

I've made many Renaissance and Victorian gowns and now I would like to make an 18th century style gown but am wondering if anyone has recomendations for good patterns. I would also like to know about any good undergarment/corset patterns for this time period.
Thanks a bunch!!  :)

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#1
Jodi...Recollections of JP Ryan has the best patterns for 18th Century garments. I have the patterns for the the following garments

http://www.jpryan.com/details/hbstays.html

http://www.jpryan.com/details/anglaise.html

http://www.jpryan.com/pocket.htm

I also have this one from Rocking Horse farm..

http://rockinghorse-farm.com/store/large/pfj0/Colonial/Polonaise_Levite_Round_Gowns.html

Hope this helps you.

"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

gusjodi

Yes, that helps a lot! Thank you so much! How are they for fit? Are they pretty accurate or is there a lot of adjustments that have to be made?

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

I have not made them yet. But The JP Ryan patterns are accurately designed and cut. I have several sizes of the Waistcoats and 1750's coat patterns that I use for Pirate coats. The patterns can be easily adjusted. Just make sure to order the Bust Size closest to your own Ren Bodices. The gowns are designed to be worn over the proper undergarments.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

gem

I second JP Ryan. Not only are they high quality in terms of accuracy, etc, they are *beautifully* drafted. I have her basic woman's wardrobe and the jackets collection, and they are some--if not THE--best patterns I've ever, ever worked with.

They are designed to be fit over your stays, but I can't recall offhand if the measurement chart is for your corseted or uncorseted measurements. I would email them and ask, just to be sure.

Here's the ensemble I made using her patterns:




And more details here, including a list of some of my preferred 18th C. costuming resources.

Have fun!!

isabelladangelo

I patterned my own stays and I'm using period impressions for the pocket hoops.  (You don't really need a pattern for the pocket hoops but I bought it years ago and figured I minus well use it)   The JP Ryan is good but I made modifications to it, like adding a side piece rather than a big front of the bodice and back of the bodice when doing the Robe a l'anglaise. 

The big thing about 18th C is the sewing techniques.   Costume close up has some good info in it.  I have an extant 1780's bodice (it was a robe a l'anglaise at one point in it's life) and each piece of the bodice is sewn separately and then whip stitched together.    The lining is folded over and stitched on each piece - with thin bits of whaleboning placed inside the casing made by the fold and sewing.  I use regular cable ties as a substitute.  The facing fashion fabric is folded over as well but pinned to the lining before each piece is whip stitched together.  I hope that makes sense!   

operafantomet

If you want a crossover between period accuracy and theatre shortcuts, I highly recommend Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800". There are several 18th century patterns in there, and they are easy to follow and usually comes with options of doing it period or more simplified. I remember one could choose sleeves, at least. I tried the Robe a la Francaise some years ago, and it worked very well.

Jean Hunnisett was the one making the famous "Phoenix gown" Glenda Jackson wore in the Elizabeth mini series from the 70s. That dress is famous for having a patterned bodice cut of one single piece. Naergilien, who got to examine the dress some years ago, shared this picture:
http://www.naergilien.info/research/london1/Phoenix/P3290183.JPG

That is of course 16th century. My point is rather than Hunnisett knew her dress history, and has been much used for stage and screen in England - both as a costume maker, and through her patterns. Naergilien told that The Globe (the Shakespeare theatre aiming for costume accuracy) sometimes use her patterns as well. So you can trust her work, but at the same time they aren't too complicated for the average seamstress.

Amazon still carries the book. But I know many libraries does as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Period-Costume-Stage-Screen-1500-1800/dp/0887346103

gusjodi

Awesome! Thanks for the great info everyone!  :)

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

Don't forget Janet Arnold's PATTERNS OF FASHION 2 1610 to 1860. There are great illustrations of 18th Century clothing based on extant pieces. Excellent pattern detail and historical information.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Kate XXXXXX

I also advise ei9ther going with JP Ryan for a ready-made pattern, or starting from scratch and drafting up things from either Janet Arnold or Norah Waugh.  Avoid Reconstructing History: I had so much trouble with their patterns that it would have been quicker to draft my own.  I used the Winego pattern for my Polonise, and that worked well.

Janet Arnold:

 

Winego:



Reconstructing History, with about two thirds redrafted using Norah Waugh:


isabelladangelo

This was my first 18th C gown:


IMG_4263 by bauhausfrau, on Flickr

I'm in the blue with the pink stockings.  :-)   One thing I learned, the shoulders can be evil.  You can see how they look a bit funny in this picture.   I need to - at some point- fold the fabric over a bit and tack it down to create a smoother appearance. 

I figured out how to do it without the tuck by the time I made my tan floral linen dress here:


IMG_7254 by mykeyII, on Flickr

Also, fittings are very important.   Do multiple mock ups!

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

If there is anyone on this forum who knows her stuff when it comes to non Ren related Period Clothing, it's Kate! I have been doing Period Clothing for 25 years now and I am still learning more new things each day.

As for Reconstructing History Patterns, and I have a few, some of them are good. But one needs additional books like the TUDOR TAILOR for illustrations becuase the instructions that come with the patterns SUCK big time.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Kate XXXXXX

You are too kind, Lady K!

As for the RH patterns: I've yet to come across a good one.  The Regency frock coat and the breeches patterns hold particular horrors for us.  You may ask about the Paltry Flap, but the answer might be more than a little.. Um..  We'll leave it at that!   :-X