chemise questions

[ophelia murdoch]

what exactly is a chemise? i'm new at garbing and need a costume this season. also, where does one wear it as far as layers go with a costume?

[isabelladangelo]

Hello, and welcome!

A Chemise is the under shirt to the entire outfit.  For ladies, it should be knee length or longer.  For Gentlemen, it should be above the knee to just a couple of inches past the hips - in this case, it is called a shirt. 

Chemises come in various styles, but most are very basic in cut.  You can have a gathered neck, or not.  You can have a high neck, or not.   The sleeves can be fitted or billowing.   It depends mostly on the region you are trying to depict as well as the actual decade.   

Chemises were almost always some variation of white.   The only other documented color in the 16th c, is saffron - even then, it sounds like an Irish thing and not done in other countries very much.  The reason was because vegetable dyes bleed like crazy.  That lovely bright blue chemise might look wonderful - until you have been sweating all day and look like a Smurf by dinner.

In period, they seem to always be made of linen or a linen/cotton blend.   Today, many people use cotton given the price of muslin.  However, linen does have a tendency to be cooler in the summer than cotton so it's something to think about when making any ensemble. 

They were worn for a variety of reasons - to protect the outer clothing from sweat, for comfort beneath a fitted pair of stays or bodice, and for sanitary reasons.   

What goes over the chemise depends largely on your station and time period you are depicting.  Can you give us more information on what station, place, and time period you are looking at depicting?   

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Also, too, it depends if you want to be historically accurate, as some people do, or not, as some others don't care about that.

My chemises are not linen, because I don't like to iron!  I usually look for material that is a cotton blend so I don't look like I slept in my garb by the end of the day, which is a persona preference for me, I'm sure others don't feel the same way.

I also match my chemises to my outfit, thus have a red chemise, some white ones, a beige one, two yellow ones, two gold ones, an orange one, and a green one.  Suffice to say, I am not historically accurate (abbreviated usually as H/A).

I have a couple of long ones, but I have some that come to the top of my hips, sort of like blouse length, so I can tuck into my skirts without it pulling out.  It depends where and when your faire is, and the weather.  Bristol (in Wisconsin) during the summer is blazingly hot, so I don't even consider the long ones.  I wear bloomers under my skirts to escape heat rash, so I like the shorter length, again, not too many layers.  If I go to a faire in the cooler autumn  months, I wear the long ones, more layers in an effort to keep warm.

If I am wearing noble garb or a hoop skirt (farthingale), I put on the chemise first and then the hoop skirt on top, then the skirts and bodice.

There are probably as many opinions as what to wear and how to wear it as there are people that go to faires.  You need to determine what look you want to go for, either H/A or not, and if so, how H/A you are willing to go (like for cast, it is usually very H/A), and where and when your faire is, and then find a look you like.

But basically, a chemise is a blouse.   

[Kate XXXXXX]

I don't iron my linen shift.  I just toss it in the tumble dryer, drag it out warm and fluffy, smooth it down and fold it, and it end up mostly smooth and lovely and soft.

[operafantomet]

I don't know what style you prefer, or if you just want a generic look. But this link shows how Italian ladies of the 16th century typically dressed:

http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/italian.html

There are many words for the white garment worn closest to the skin. Shirt, shift, smock, chemise, you name it. In Italy they called it "camicia" for both men and women. It's still the word Italians use for shirts. The basic cut was the same for men and women, but as Isabella pointed out the ones for women were longer than those for men.

Chemises protected the finer clothes from sweat and dirt, and was frequently washed - unlike the finer outer clothes. The Italian chemises were wider than English ones, and often embroidered. The necklines followed the neckline of the outer dress, but was in general low and square.

Here are extant Italian chemises, plus depictions of some:

[isabelladangelo]

I've never ironed my linen chemises either.  Most of the time, they are so covered with a dress and sleeves, there really is little point.

[Anna Iram]

I'm a cotton or linen girl myself. I figure if I rumple a bit it just means I had a fun day.


Isabelle and Renee are both right. It's all about what direction you want to go with this. Most people seem to start out with a bodice they like, a simple cotton skirt and of course the chemise. Usually one with elastic or drawstring cuffs and neckline. Usually full sleeves. That's a good basic way to start until you decide if you want to invest in a gown, either middleclass, upperclass or noble. You are hearby warned. Garb is an addiction. A costly,  but fun addiction.

Do you sew? You might consider making a chemise. Tons of help here with that. If not take a stroll through Etsy or Ebay (search for "renaissance chemise "). Tons of options from puffy, ruffed pirate to saucy  wench to classic long or hip lenght chemise. Personally I favor a mid thigh length,  but like Renee I wear bloomers so I don't need the extra length for coverage. I've made a few and purchased a few. Misty Thicket makes a nice one.

And just 'causea I like this little story:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/order.html

[gem]

I have lost track of how many chemises I have.  I have the ones I wear to depict a more historically accurate persona, and those that are just pure fun Fairwear. Generally speaking, I prefer a longer/dress length chemise, because I find them more versatile--particularly if they are colors other than white. I have them in linen, silk, cotton, and rayon; in white, cream, orange, green, burgundy, and scarlet; long sleeved, bell-sleeved, puff-sleeved, and angel-wing-sleeved; plain fabric, embroidered fabric, fabric shot with gold thread.... I even have two cropped ones that I wear under fitted dresses where there's not room for a floofier chemise underneath.  Most of mine I have purchased, because apparently I can't resist a really pretty chemise! (Also they're fun to buy because they pretty much always fit.)

Right now, I'm finding this white textured rayon one to be my most versatile. It's not H/A in terms of cut, fabric, or construction--but all of those details actually work well to reflect a period sensibility--an era of Italian costuming when camicia were getting *very* elaborate, more decorative and not just strictly functional. It's also extraordinarily comfortable--it's rayon, which is a great fiber for hot weather (it's wicking, so you feel cooler), and those sleeves are really breezy and fun.

[Anna Iram]

That's so pretty, Gem. Love that cut of sleeve.  

Just throwing out ideas, but if you decide on an irish dress then a full length chemise would be the thing to buy. It would act as the underskirt as well as the top. Just be sure in this case the chemise is not made from too thin of a fabric as an irish gown has an open front.