Millinery for the poor folk

[Rowan MacD]

  I have had no problems with the Buckram, even when there has been moisture.

I haven't heard of anyone having real problems with buckram in hats either, so it surprised me to see MA require the plastic for her tall hat pattern. 
   According to what I have found on the net though, there isa milliners buckram that is stiffened with water soluble glue to make it more pliable for use while shaping hats, so it is apparently not waterproof.   I would think that buckram used for dressmaking would need to hold it's shape through a washing, so it may be a different type.   
    I have not had the misfortune, as yet, to have my hoods (made with 'regular' buckram as far as I know) get wet, so I don't have personal experience with the 'slump' effect some folks have reported.
   The hatmakers out there would know more...... 

[Wickedvox]

Gem--http://www.amazon.com/dp/0312656866/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=8748849684&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2043576931269055271&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_7gmh72sds1_b

I wanted to make the hat on the cover in gold shantung to match my skirt, but turns out I should've measured my melon before I went shopping--the canvas is too small. I may just abandon my pursuit for now. School starts up again next monday and I still have finishing on a couple projects and need to get started on a christening outfit for a friend. Oh well, I can admit when I've taken on too much.

[Rennigirl]

I haver not quite perfected the use of Plastic canvas for Arched Tall Hats as of yet. I will have to experiment on smaller hats, like more for Steam Punk.

It's actually quite easy.  The plastic canvas is very flexible and with a bit of wire sewin along the brim - it holds it's shape nicely.

I have used plastic canvas in all my hats that I wanted a bit of form and shape for:  tall hats, pillboxes, flat caps and italian bonnets (just the brim, of course).  I like it as it is very breathable and so easy to work with (ie: when you mess up cutting it, it is not expensive to replace  )

[raevyncait]

Gem--http://www.amazon.com/dp/0312656866/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=8748849684&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2043576931269055271&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_7gmh72sds1_b

I wanted to make the hat on the cover in gold shantung to match my skirt, but turns out I should've measured my melon before I went shopping--the canvas is too small. I may just abandon my pursuit for now. School starts up again next monday and I still have finishing on a couple projects and need to get started on a christening outfit for a friend. Oh well, I can admit when I've taken on too much.

I would think that you could piece together a large enough bit of plastic canvas, by wiring or whatever you planned to do to connect the 2 ends together in 2 places instead of just the one original spot. Measure how big around you need your crown opening, and cut a second piece of the plastic canvas to make up the shortage left from the full piece. For example, if you need 20 inches, and your full piece of canvas is 14 inches, cut the remaining 6 inches from a second piece of canvas and secure it to one edge of the full one, and then you should be able to fit your crown from there. 

**Now, that suggestion is NOT from experience, as I've never in my life made a hat, but it seems like a logical solution to me.**

[Wickedvox]

Raevyn, I'd considered that, but I think it would create a sharp edge where they were joined that I would not be able to smooth out. I will just keep pondering it for now.

[Rennigirl]

I had to adjoin to bits of canvas together and what I did was to whip stitch them together and where the sharp edge was created, I "forced" it to be flat by afixing a popcicle stick to the back of the canvas.

It kept the edge from bumping out and no one ever saw the inside of my hat, so I was covered. 

[Wickedvox]

I had to adjoin to bits of canvas together and what I did was to whip stitch them together and where the sharp edge was created, I "forced" it to be flat by afixing a popcicle stick to the back of the canvas.

It kept the edge from bumping out and no one ever saw the inside of my hat, so I was covered. 

That's a good idea Renni!! Thanks!

[bookwench]

I've used both plastic canvas and buckram, and I have to admit I prefer buckram.  Mostly, I just find it easier to wrangle - stitching wire to plastic canvas is a pain! 

As far as buckram melting in the rain, it is a problem, but not an insurmountable one.  Use a heavy buckram (medium or theater weight), double it up, mull it (cover with flannel, its another layer between the buckram and the rain), and then spray the whole finished piece with Camp Dry (or some other water proofing spray) when you're done.  I've made French hoods out of buckram and have had very little problem with rain.  Just keep adding that Camp Dry!

[Wickedvox]

Hey ladies, check it out! I emailed the author of Hats! about my difficulties and she wrote me back! Just in case any of you were interested in sources (aren't we all) and DIY tips (again, aren't we all?).



Hello Erin (that's me! *points to self*),

Thanks for your email, and for your interest in my book. It is true that hat blocks are very expensive - this is sadly an unavoidable aspect to millinery. It is worth keeping an eye on eBay for any useful blocks - sometimes they sell for reasonable prices, sometimes for quite a lot, it really depends on the market. I get my blocks from a British blockmaker called Guy-Morse Brown, who makes both the modern 'trilby' crown shape (in truth, not a true trilby, but a modern variation) and the cloche brim block which I use in the book to make the trilby shape. You should be able to see all the block shapes on his website.

There is also a Brooklyn-based milliner (I can't remember his name off the top of my head) who has a tutorial on YouTube on how to make a your own block based on an existing hat, using spray foam. I have never done this, and think it would probably not be a lasting solution - ie, you could make a couple hats on the block, but it wouldn't last forever. You can also carve you own block using high-density styrofoam, but you need to make sure you wear a mask and work in a well-ventilated area as the dust can be pretty nasty. If you do this or the spray foam technique, I would make the brim and crown separately, so that you can adjust the fit and dimensions easily.

Hope that is helpful, best of luck,

Sarah (Cant)

[Lady Aldyth]

I have done a few hats with the plastic canvas. What I learned:

1) Overlap the canvas for "seams". This will keep the canvas from trying to bow out at that point.

2) Use a lining fabric or thin batting or interfacing if you are covering it with a really thin fabric. Especially if fabric is shiny or you might get wet... otherwise "grid" shows through.

3) Is GREAT in wet weather!!!! No losing it's shape!

4) If you think of it, sew an "ice pack pocket" into it! SOOOO nice on hot days!\

5) Use fishing line or such to sew the canvas... hold FOREVER!

6) Buy some of the cheap wire coat hangers from Walmart. The plastic tip on the end pops right off and the wire is sturdy but easy to cut and shape. Use two plastic tips and you will never have a poke-through!

[Wickedvox]

Wow! Thanks Lady Aldyth! GREAT tips! LOOOVE the ice pocket idea! (I'm stashing this thread away for my summer projects

[isabelladangelo]

Be very wary of using ice packs.  There have been SERIOUS medical issues associated with ice packs and using them for longer than 15 minutes.  If you need cool off at fair, wet a wash cloth and wear that.   It's a lot safer.  /end medical alert

[Wickedvox]

Be very wary of using ice packs.  There have been SERIOUS medical issues associated with ice packs and using them for longer than 15 minutes.  If you need cool off at fair, wet a wash cloth and wear that.   It's a lot safer.  /end medical alert

LOL you sound like a fellow nursing student! Heat & ice: 20 minutes on, 20 minutes off!

[isabelladangelo]

Be very wary of using ice packs.  There have been SERIOUS medical issues associated with ice packs and using them for longer than 15 minutes.  If you need cool off at fair, wet a wash cloth and wear that.   It's a lot safer.  /end medical alert

LOL you sound like a fellow nursing student! Heat & ice: 20 minutes on, 20 minutes off!

  When you've seen people go into shock due to using ice packs on a hot day you tend to be a bit militant about people getting cooled off naturally.   

[Merlin the Elder]

Ice packs directly applied can cause problems regardless of how hot it is. I can't stand one on me for more than a few seconds. Wrapping the pack in a layer or two of dry terry cloth removes the risk and discomfort, and lets a cool layer of air permeate after a few minutes. A wet washcloth or even bandana around your neck is perfectly safe, easy, and extremely effective, as Isabella suggests.  An alternate point is on your wrists. Both places are easily accessible and carry a lot of blood.

If heat is a problem on any given day, alcohol, especially, should be avoided. Caffeinated drinks can also be trouble makers.