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What is this?

Started by Otwell Throckmorton, May 08, 2012, 09:48:44 AM

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Otwell Throckmorton



What is this type of collar?

I'm trying to pull together long-term costume ideas for a philosopher character, but I keep running into this type of collar.  As far as I can tell it's not a nobility collar, I'm not seeing it in any kind of reading or depiction other than posed for pictures of less than noble but more than common men.  It doesn't look like it would be pleasant at all to wear, so I was wondering if it was something they purely did when posing for pictures being painted, or if it actually was something that someone would wear around all day, and why the heck would they do that to themselves?!?

Anyway, if anyone could give me some ideas about this collar, or even provide me with a general style of philosophers/intellectuals from the renaissance period that would be awesome!
"As for me, all I know is that I know nothing"
"Beware the barrenness of a busy life"
- Socrates

amy

The collar you have pictured is called a ruff collar.   It is a separate item in historically accurate garb pieces and is most often made of fine linen or lawn.   And usually white either with or without a fine ornamental lace or embroidery at the edges.   It is a ruffle which is gathered or pleated onto a narrower neck band and can be tied at the front or back.   It is a most necessary item in mens garb from the 16th century and I would recommend it not be left off your outfit.  Trick to wearing a ruff, which I do regularly is not to get it too tight.  It will feel just like any mens collar if worn at the right size.   The maintenance of them is the hardest part but worth the effort.  They do get grimey with sweat and dirt at faire so washability is a must; and in order to keep the "figure 8" ruffles in place it must be starched and pressed.    The free form ruff you show on the left is more from the later 16th century and is easer to iron.    Now you know the name there are 100s of youtubes, web pages and sources to research.. have fun.   I guarantee the folks here will chime in with tons of information.   

DonaCatalina

It might also be noted that the ruff did not really become popular until after 1547. So if you say, looking for 1533, you would not see this collar.
What you would see in scholarly clothes would be more like this portrait by Hans Holbein.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#3
Courtesy of the Renaissance Tailor http://www.renaissancetailor.com/
 
http://www.renaissancetailor.com/store/products_blackworkruffs.php

I often go to this site to ogle over the lovely Ruff Collars and get ideas . Some of the best and well crafted ruffs I have seen anywhere on the Internet. Great site for information on clothing as well.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Anna Iram

#4
Hi. :) Your first portrait is of this gentleman:

http://m.eb.com/topic/390476

http://plato.stanford.edu/entries/montaigne/

Perhaps you knew this already. I love it when people take actual people from history and bring them to life through faire. Even if it is only a bit from this one or that one.

Don't have much to add to the info on what is a ruff. Agree it might be uncomfortable if your faire is very hot, but it sure is a dashing look and would lend alot to a character who favors fashion.

Anna Iram

#5
I took a look at your previous posts. Looks like Scarby is your home faire! Lucky you. :)

Well, keeping with that general time frame maybe something like these:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Elyot#section_4


http://www.museevirtuel-virtualmuseum.ca/sgc-cms/expositions-exhibitions/annodomini/THEME_13/EN/theme13-3-zoom.html

isabelladangelo

The ruff can be left open in the hot weather - and often was.  What place and time, exactly, are you looking for?   Depending on the location, the ruff did not exist.  The ones I've worn are acutally quite comfortable.   

Anna Iram

#7
Scarby is set during the marriage of Henry VIII to Anne Boleyn, so mid 1530's ? Of course you don't have to stick to that. Many folks wear Elizabethan gowns and doublets etc.

Okay...here's one more link that may be helpful:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_fashion#section_3

Hope you have a blast creating your garb and character. In the end that's what it all comes down to. :)

Otwell Throckmorton

Thank you all so very much for all of your help!
"As for me, all I know is that I know nothing"
"Beware the barrenness of a busy life"
- Socrates

Lady Kett

Quote from: Anna Iram on May 09, 2012, 04:54:08 AM
Scarby is set during the marriage of Henry VIII to Anne Boleyn, so mid 1530's ?

Great timing, Anna Iram! I am reasonably certain Scarby is set in 1533.

Merlin the Elder

1533 is indeed correct, the first year of Anne's reign as Queen of England.  Her reign would last less than three years before she was executed.
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