Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?

[gem]

I'm finally getting back to this project!



Fit-wise, the first mockup went very well (wish I could say the same for the photos! LOL). As Butch noted, I do need to tweak the shape of the armscye, but that's not a big deal. I also need to add a little ease. Not too much--it fit *very well* as it was, but I think he (and MIL!) would prefer a little looser fit. So right now my plan is to add 1/4"-3/8" at the side seam on each piece, giving me 1-1.5" extra all round. I just don't know if 1.5" would be too much extra ease?  (Milord will be able to get an extra fitting in, thank goodness!)

I'm planning to do one side in the gold/black colorway (as shown in the sketch, although I'll be making the shoulder tabs from the contrast/black, like this doublet. Ok, yes--on that doublet they're red, but you guys know what I mean, right?!)

The other side will be that blue brushed twill--more of a working-class look--and I'd like to use that brown suede tape as trim. I only have 6.5 yards of it, though. Any suggestions for trim designs using very little trim?

My plan is to make the alterations to my paper pattern, then baste together the blue side for Milord to take home to his dad in two weeks.

Thoughts?

Gramercy!!

[CenturiesSewing]

Gem I think the fit in the body looks good, it isn't too tight and it isn't too loose. Unlike the doublets in the pattern picture are huge on those guys. I would not add more than an inch of ease unless the shirt he is going to wear under it is very bulky or the reverse side you are making is going to be super thick. It is a bit hard to tell what is going on in the collar area but it looks like you have it well in hand.

For trim, sometimes less is more? I think the brown just along the front edge and the main seams would work well.

[skitter]

I'm getting ready to make this pattern for my husband, and I'm really appreciating all the info about fit!  I wasn't originally going to make a muslin of it, but now I think I'm going to! 

[gem]

Skitter, it really is a nice pattern (see DW's Gallery of Nine on the previous page as evidence!), and I'm really happy with the way mine turned out, although I mentioned in another thread that if I ever make it again, I will flatline it with canvas. The fabrics I chose ended up being a little lightweight, and I just prefer the more substantial feel of my own heftier bodices, I guess!

I posted this in the Finished Projects thread, but here's how it ended up!


I never got a shot of him in the reverse side, but here's that, as well:


One thing that others have noted elsewhere is the lack of a collar. I don't mind that so much IF the gent wearing it has a shirt with a nice collar... which my FIL does not.  So I'm planning to make him the one with the ruffle, in black, for this fall.

You didn't mention this, but if you are planning on making the shirt, Milord and I both found (I've made it for each of us) that the yoke seam is quite snug under the arms, making it hard to pull on and off over the head. You might want to take a narrower seam allowance through that area, or grade it slightly roomier.

Have fun!!

[skitter]

Love it, gem! 

Good tip on flatlining with canvas . . . I'm going to be using a pretty sturdy home dec fabric, so I think I'm ok.  I didn't even think about making it reversible until I did some searching here -- next time for sure.

Husb decided on the A view (the longer version), and we picked out a nice cotton for the lining (because Texas), and I read through the pattern; it seems pretty straightforward (I may have just jinxed myself).

Now I'm debating whether to do a proper muslin or to sew up the lining first and use that to determine fit.  Hm.

For now I'm not planning to make the shirt . . . he has two already which could be worn with it (both have collars, luckily).  I appreciate the tip about the yoke, though! Thanks!

[skitter]

So far I'm finding this pattern to be really straightforward . . . though I'm only about halfway done (I have the top bit done for view A) and this weekend will try and tackle the rest.

Anyway, either the directions are fairly logical or my sewing skills are improving a lot.

[skitter]

Update: I am almost done, and I think I may be doing something wrong -- it has gone together too easily!

It fits the husb pretty well; if I make it again for him I may make some minor alterations (he is wide of shoulder and narrow of waist/hip compared to the way the pattern fits), but all in all I'm well pleased so far. 

Pictures forthcoming.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

While this pattern has many pluses going for it, it is a good one to use when starting out to make Doublets.

The pattern can be altered for smaller waists to bigger guts. What makes it look better is when there is a Collar, which I am surprised this pattern omitted.

Was anyone else surprised about that?

[skitter]

Yep, I may have to alter the next one I make . . . and possibly add a collar. 

All in all, though, I thought the pattern was really straightforward, which was a nice surprise.   I have a feeling Husb is now going to want more than just the one.

[LadyShadow]

While this pattern has many pluses going for it, it is a good one to use when starting out to make Doublets.

The pattern can be altered for smaller waists to bigger guts. What makes it look better is when there is a Collar, which I am surprised this pattern omitted.

Was anyone else surprised about that?

I agree about the missing collar, I was surprised about that as well. But when I made it the first time for my husband didnt draft one in. Maybe next go round I will do that.

[gem]

I don't necessarily mind the lack of a collar--many doublets and jerkins that you buy at Fair don't have them, after all--and that's the look this pattern gives, Fairwear, not historical. I know Milord and my FIL would find a collar uncomfortable.

I do think there should be a collar in this ensemble SOMEWHERE (in the photo you can see that my FIL's shirt doesn't have one, either, and it would look much better if it did), but the 4059 shirt pattern includes two different styles of collar, which helps make up for the lack of one in the doublet.

[gypsylakat]

Just wanted to say THANK YOU for this thread, I'm about to embark on this pattern this week and this was full of great advice

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

This  pattern is excellent for starter doublets for faire. Easy enough to do in a few days, even wkth sewing on closures.

[gypsylakat]

I'm super excited- my only worry is if this pattern will still fit or if I'll essentially be drafting a new one. The Fiance has lost a TON of weight and I can't remember if we purchased this pre-weight loss or after- eek!

[isabelladangelo]

Mock ups, mock ups, mock ups!  Get some cheap fabric (the $2 stuff) and make up only the fashion fabric.  See if it fits and edit it where it doesn't.  Also, most big three patterns, you need to go down a couple of sizes from what the pattern tells you away.