MA bodice shoulder straps

[Wickedvox]

Okay, new dilemma. Has anyone had problems with the MA bodice shoulder straps slipping off the shoulders with normal arm movement? My chemise and corset (Simplicity) have always slipped, and while fitting my pattern pieces today (traced onto painter's plastic) I noticed the shoulders slip with movement. Is it the armhole? Is it too small even though it's not too tight? Will this self-correct when the side-back lacing is in place? I plan to do a mock-up, but even still it'd be nice to know ahead of time. Also (bear with me), while fitting I had a 2 & 7/8" gap from the middle of my back (only fit half the pattern, so this will be on the fold) to the edge of the back pattern piece. If I figure a one inch gap for each side-lacing (is that h/a?) then I should need to add 7/8" x 2 (1.75") to get a proper fit--yes? Ugh, I hope this makes sense...Gem is pretty good with decoding my ramblings lol!

[Kate XXXXXX]

Have you compared the width of the bodice pattern to your actual shoulder width?  The pattern may be too wide at the shoulder for you.    You may have to narrow the pattern above the bust line.  Also, the straps will slip if you have sloping shoulders.   You can deal with this later problem by altering the angle of the strap, and slightly altering the position at the back.

[Wickedvox]

That's a good point Kate, I will look into that.

Also, my math is off. If the gap is 2 7/8" for *one side* then I have to double it *then* subtract 2" for lacing. Right? I'm rotten for math.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

One also has to keep in mind the sloping of the shoulders. We are all built differently. Having over 30 years experience in doing Alterations, I have come to understand body types and shapes, which helps when doing garb and working with patterns to make the necessary adjustments for a good fit.

Some have Square shoulders that appear boxy. Some are straight as a line. Others slope at a slight decline.

I have one shoulder higher than the other by 1/2". At times my straps can fall. I made adjustments on my own garb to ensure that they do not. Experimenting with a muslin helps even if the pattern is cut correctly.

[mollymishap]

I've had the shoulder-strap slippage issue as well, even with garb that, at home, seemed to be tailored well--it's like the ladies above mentioned, slight differences in shoulder slope, etc. will have an impact once you factor in active movement. 

ALSO, though I realize this may not be your problem--heavy sleeves can pull down and distort your straps--I have a tudor gown with ridiculously heavy furred sleeves that just LOVES to drag on my shoulders.   I tried to compensate for them while drafting the bodice pattern at home, but after a few hours...Flashdance, here I come!

BUT, back to your issue...I'd suggest two things:
1- PICTURES, please, if you can take some, so that we can see what's going on. 
2- Get thee to thy closet and if there is any garb that does NOT slip, take it and place it on top of the pattern pieces that correspond to where your problem is and compare the two.  You may be able to see where you need to make adjustments.

I like to buy patterns more as a reference than as an actual base for my garb.  I always end up going back to my basic old reliable bodice pattern that fits me like a glove and make any adjustments per #2 above to get the "look" of the pattern.   HTH!

[Wickedvox]

Great suggestions abound! I especially like the idea of laying a "non-slipping" bodice over the pattern. I have pretty broad, square shoulders that don't slope, and usually patterns fit me to a "T" because apparently my shape is standard with patterns lol. I *will* measure across my back and do some more math. I had *very* little gapping at the strap/armpit area, so I'm not convinced it's my back width, but you never know. Once again, you ladies are an invaluable resource--thank you all!

[Cilean]

Not once I fit the shoulders after I get the whole Toile done AND then fit my shoulders, then they stay up! I had issues because my shoulders are broad but not very wide, and I am very short waisted, so it caused issues I can assure you, but once you fit everything on your Toile then it will not slip off again!

A Very Sleepy Cilean

[gem]

Wicked, did you see the diagram in the MA fitting section where it talks about strap placement, and moving them around until they're comfortable and stay in place? Have a look at that and see if anything helps. (I think it's more likely that the straps are *too large* than too small, but I have narrow shoulders and have never made straps that were too small on anything, so I suppose that might be possible!)

One thing I've noticed is that no matter how well-fitting the straps are, if the back is cut too low or too wide, they'll slip. I can come back later and post pix for reference, but I've found that a higher and narrower neckline in back plays a major role in helping straps stay put. You might cut your back neckline a wee bit higher and see if that helps, or move the straps closer to the center of your back.