I can't put it off any longer: aka the corset saga

[DonaCatalina]

I finally have to admit that I need to make a new (smaller) corset.

I have the down proof ticking on order and the white steel bones.
I ordered some casing with eyelets so that I don't have to worry about somehow installing steel eyelets after I make the corset.
Now if only I could remember which width of bones I ordered.
http://store.corsetmaking.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CMS&Category_Code=BC&AFFIL=CM
I forgot to order the rest of the bone casing.
Photos to follow as parts arrive. 

[mollymishap]

What style of corset will you be making?

I'm curious to know what you mean by "casing with eyelets"...do you mean eyelet tape or those steel bones that have pre-drilled holes in them that you use instead of boning on either side of the opening?  I'm curious to know how well those work.

[Wickedvox]

Smaller is good! Just think, once you get it done, you'll not want to make another one for a loooong time, hence encouraging you to stay that size lol! It's what's kept me at my current weight forthe past 2 years! If you use standard boning it was probably 1/4". I've never used "down proof ticking." what is it? Is it a cold weather corset??

[DonaCatalina]

Here is the old corset

And this is the busk for the new corset.

After breaking several conventional busks over the years; I sent my husband down to Alliance Plastics. They cut this piece to my drawing out of 1/4" clear plexiglass. I will make a muslin pocket for the busk before it is enclosed inside the corset. My old corset has a similar busk as you may be able to tell from the photo.

I will add photos of the other bits as they arrive. Down proof ticking is a tightly woven cotton fabric used in uphostelry to prevent feathers from pocking through cushions. It is also a good fabric to keep steel bones from poking through corsets. It is acrually an all weather corset for me. Most of my gown are cotton and silk fabrics suitable for warm weather. I don't done my dress bodices because I believe a sturdy corset gives you the look and support you need. The lack of boning helps make my dresses machine washable in cold water.

[Wickedvox]

Nice! I had my dad cut a 1/4" piece of wood to my specifications and I've never had a problem--plexiglass is a good alternative, STURDY! I will have to look into cotton ticking. Let us know how the new one turns out!

[DonaCatalina]

One side of the bones laid out in the eventual placement. At the far left you can see the eyelet tape with channels for bone casing.
The placement allows for a small unboned area just at the center of the breasts.


A closer look at the eyelet tape and some of the white steel bones. These bones are 1/2" wide.

[mollymishap]

That eyelet tape is really interesting.  I've never seen it like that (with pre-made casings for the bones).  Have you used it before?  There doesn't seem to be alot of extra fabric for attaching to the corset body.  Where would your stitching go?

[Wickedvox]

I'm with her ^^^!!

Also, that fabric is *beautiful!!*

[DonaCatalina]

That eyelet tape is really interesting.  I've never seen it like that (with pre-made casings for the bones).  Have you used it before?  There doesn't seem to be alot of extra fabric for attaching to the corset body.  Where would your stitching go?

After playing with the eyelet tape a little; it seems that I will have to go back and order some 1/4" boning for that when I order the bone casing for the rest of the bones. Live and learn. There is room for sticthing; but only just. The fabric in antique gold that you are seeing is just a tablecloth. The cotton ticking is white.

[Alexandra Johanna]

The fabric in antique gold that you are seeing is just a tablecloth.

How many pieces of garb have had just such a beginning... ;-)

[Wickedvox]

Table cloth, shower curtain, it all ends up as garb lol!

[DonaCatalina]

After some procrastination; the pattern.
I took some off the ends and a little just inside the busk area to accomodate my new measurements. Ideally I will have about a 2-3 inch gap in the back when it is tightened. If its a little more, that's ok as I hope to keep losing weight.

[DonaCatalina]

Comments, questions, suggestions welcome. This is a relearning experience for me since it has been 6-7 years since I last made a corset.
Busk is now in its own pocket.

[DonaCatalina]

It is a little scary seeing the boning channels all laid out.....

[gem]

You're coming along brilliantly!

I love boning channels. LOL They really make it look like you've made tons of progress. One of my favorite things about my machine is the multiple needle positions that make sewing the channels *so* precise.

I've been watching your progress; are you using your Castle Gardens corset as a prototype? I like mine, but wow--I'd be totally intimidated trying to reproduce that plexiglass busk!

[DonaCatalina]

Yes, I am using it as a prototype. It was the most comfortable corset I've ever worn until it got too big.

[Anna Iram]

This is interesting. Completly different from how I made mine. Is the advantage to boning channels in less poke through?

[DonaCatalina]

Yes, the boning channels are a densely woven material of a heavier fabric than the down proof ticking. Since I am using white steel boning I wanted to make sure I had adequate protection. Two of my earliest corsets became useless once the boning poked through the fabric.
The other advantage to boning channels is that I can sew them down directly to the inner lining so that they stay in place as subsequent layers are added.


As for the busk, that was the easiest item to obtain of any of this. My husband took the broken busk down to Allied Plastics in Dallas. They traced it out on a sheet and cut him 2 for $25.
Consequently it is very slightly larger than the old busk; but not enough to make a difference.

[DonaCatalina]

well, the corst is all assembled, awaiting grommets. I'll try to post photos soon.

[gem]

Huzzah!! Well done. (And may I say, I was actually pleased to see that this went together for you over a course of several months. I, too, sew at a 'measured pace'  and it can be disheartening to watch other costumers whip out their projects in no time!)

[DonaCatalina]

We have achiebed Corsetry!
I had to make myself finish since we'll be going to TRF Nov. 10.
I made my husband cut the holes and set the grommets.