doublet sizing question

[Ser Niall]

I'm using the Fantasy Fashions Dashing Doublets pattern, and made up my muslin mock-up.  It fits fine in the chest area, but it's a bit tight around the waist.  I made up the XL pattern, which states that it's a size 44 in the chest, and 38 in the waist.  When I measure myself, I measure 42 in chest, and 42 inches in the waist (natural waist, measuring tape is up against my skin).  I guess I'm just straight up and down, and don't fit into this 'V' shape that the doublet pattern is in.   What is the best way to adapt this pattern to my shape?  Should I add extra inches to the front opening, or side seams?  I also only want to add to the waist, and leave the chest alone.  I'm afraid that if I modify the pattern too much, nothing is going to fit together right.  Is there some sort of common method for adding inches like this?

[DonaCatalina]

My two cents

step 1: buy some plaid Christmas paper.

Step 2: lay your FF pattern on the reverse side.

Step 3: Mark your actual measurements on the wrapping paper to create your custom fitted pattern. The plaid will show through and help you keep lined up. this is especially important if you need to add length to the pattern. Adding length in the middle rather than to the ends usually works best.

Step 4: once you have the outline marked out, cut out the new pattern piece.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Here is the trick I use that I find the easiest for when makingn Doublets for my clients.

1) Take the Back Piece, cut it in two where it says Shorten or Lengthen Here. Base the Back Length on your Back Measurement, allowing for seam allowance too. If your Back Length measures 21", for example, make ssure you add an additional inch for seam aloowance. That will also determine your side seam length for your Back and Front pieces. Make sure they measure the same.

2) For waist, add an additional 1 1/4" off the cutting line to your Back and Front piece, then have your line taper into the armhole seam. That way, you allow for seam allowance and ease. Better to be a little too big, then not big enough. It is easier to take in than it is to take out. Men are known to have bellies. Be sure to adjust Peplum piece if you are using that. Make enough Tabs as well to accomodate Waist measurements.

3) A trick I learned in Sewing Class in High School when resizing patterns is to add 5/8" all around for each additonal size up from the LARGEST size on the pattern. Making a Muslin out of cheap fabric is not a bad thing to do as well as make a redraft of the actual pattern that fits you out of Christmas wrapping paper or Butcher's Freezern paper. Be sure to do that to Sleeve pieces, and otehr pieces as well.

Hope these tips help. Because I do a lot of Doublets, rarely does one fit NOT based on the measurements that I get..

[Ser Niall]

Thanks for the tips.  I'm going to adjust the pattern based on your suggestions.   I'm hoping to have something resembling a doublet to post here within the next couple of weeks!