Paned Slops

[Orphena]

So... m'lord has been asking for some new paned slops...and I have tomorrow off, which gives me a chance to get started...maybe.

I currently have Margo's pattern, and the Tudor Tailor...and several "related" patterns from the Big 3. I would prefer not to buy any other patterns.... looking for your suggestions on what to start with. I am not averse to a little bit of frankenpatterning.... but I would like them to look nice.

Your ideas?

[gem]

We've been talking a lot about paned slops this summer; you might scroll back through the last few pages of this forum to see if you can find the conversations. The thread I'm thinking about might have been started by Sir Niall, who has been making a set.

[Ser Niall]

Yes, I'm making a pair using the fantasy fashions pattern. I know you didn't want to buy another pattern, but I really like this one. I started with margo anderson, but I found it to be too complicated for me (I'm a sewing newbie).

I'm hoping to get my slops finished within the week, I'll post pictures once they're complete.

[Orphena]

I have been following Sir Niall's progress, and read a lot of the topics.... and the entire Finished Projects Thread....and a whole lot more.... trying to find the motivation to start these.....

I am wondering if anyone here has used the Tudor Tailor pattern ... or whethe it would just be easier to try something from the big 3..... but I did that last time, and was not happy with the results. I guess I am just intimidated by the seemingly small amount of directions in the Tudor Tailor, and yet the incredibly complex instructions in Margo's patterns.

I dislike sewing men's clothing.....they never seem to fit!

[Ser Niall]

I dislike sewing men's clothing.....they never seem to fit!

I hear you on this one.  I made my muslins using the pattern size the instructions told me for my measurements, and they came out too big.  I guess that's better than too small.  I found it pretty easy to make adjustments to bring the doublet and slops in where needed.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I find it helps a lot if you take a good set of measurements (NOT something you can do by yourself!), adjust the 'best fit' pattern size to those measurements, and then make a toile.

Don't forget to measure the pattern pieces and allow a certain amount for ease.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Not to sound as though boasting, I have yet to have a set of Paned Slops that did not fit the man I made them for.

The Fantasy Fashions pattern for Paned Slops are quite specific as to how many panes to make for the Appropriate Waist measurement. I measure the panes at 14" in length. Most of my guys do not like them shorter than that anyway.

[Orphena]

So.... has anyone attempted the Tudor Tailor version of these?

[Orphena]

So, I'm going to be Frankenpatterning these, I've been thinking it through a lot lately (but not started yet!), I highly doubt I will get these done in time for our Trip in Mid October, but I may as well try. Nothing like a deadline to motivate.

I am wondering if anyone has tried putting a ... fly opening... in these - I know it's not Historic, but I am tired of m'lord complaining about how long it takes him to take off the belt, etc for a quick trip to ye old port a potty.

Do you think it would be possible to have a waistband that stays attached (with the belt staying around the waist), and a placket (for lack of a better term) that unhooks / unbuttons for easier ....access? I have made him a pair of pants (different era) with a square front that unbuttons, but I cannot find them at present. They were based on this pattern I believe: http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4380   On those, the "placket" is attached to the waistband, but I am wondering if it cannot be worked to do what I want it to.

Is this even feasable? Anyone tried this?

[DonaCatalina]

Actually, the opening in the front is rather large unless you sew it up. The codpiece is what covers the gap.
*lift and pour*
And yes, I did add a deep waistband so that the belt is mainly what holds them up.

[Ser Niall]

The opening is large, as DonaCatalina said, but i just sewed hook and eyes along the entire fly opening, I think I used 4 and that held it closed pretty securely.  I'm planning on eventually making the matching codpiece, but it looks just fine without it as well.  It was fairly easy to use the privy when wearing them.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

In the past, I have also added a Modesty Flap when there is no Cod Piece. Some of the guys did not want one.

[Cilean]

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If you own the Men's Elizabethans from Margo, then you have everything you need including step by step help on pane slops. What fabrics to use, what trims, help on getting the trim on and how placement of said slops. Plus if you go to either the Yahoo Group or the FB one you can speak with others who have created these before you.

I suggest using what you have an the Margo's you can not go wrong with!

Cilean


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[Orphena]

Thanks all! Had a great chuckle at the "lift & pour" comment by DonaCatalina!

I began work on these in earnest this past weekend, and having taken everything into consideration, am still frakenpatterning these. I started with Simplicity 5574 for the basic shape of the slops - these are not paned - the image on the pattern looks it, but it is striped fabric!. They do however give the basic shape, and include a lining and the outer layer - which will in fact be an "outer lining" for me. Inner lining is 100% cotton, and after much discussion, we shortened the pattern by a good 4 inches so that the slops will sit just above m'lords high boot line. They will be short, but even after me asking him several times, he thinks he is comfortable with that! I left the front of the crotch area open for a fly opening of some kind. Inner lining is done, outer lining is pinned, and sleeves are cut as well.

M'lord has a slate blue doublet I made him several years past that he wore with a grey kilt for our medieval faires, so the paned slops are to match that. We took a trip to the fabric store and purchased some chartreuse "unknown content" fabric with a sheen, and an upholstery fabric with a small textured pattern that compliments the slate blue fabric with blues, greens, yellows in it. Yes, it will be warm, but this will be more of an "Autumn" outfit. Panes will have the base of blue with a strip of the new fabric running down the center. The outer lining (under the panes) will be the chartreuse. Sleeves for the doublet will have inner lining of chartreuse, and outer layer will be the patterned fabric. Will post pictures if people want to see them! 

[DonaCatalina]

can't wait to see pics!

[Orphena]

Ok, a few pictures!

My progress,such as it is, of the base layer. I stitched the netting directly to the inner lining, as the last pair I made required constant adjustment, which I would only notice AFTER m'lord had everything on!



Here is a gratutious shot of m'lord modeling the blue doublet. Apparently his silliness gets in the way of showing the detail. He is wearing it with a kilt I attempted, so much is covered!



And here we have the doublet with a shot of the fabric that will become trim for the panes.



A closer shot, so the colours are clearer



And one with the Chartreuse

[Orphena]

So....anyone have a "rule of thumb" to help decide how wide the panes should be? I am currently considering about 3 inches...m'lord's existing pair have panes that are 4 inches wide, and while the thought of trimming a few less panes is attractive..... The Tudor Tailor suggests 4 inches as well, but I find them wide.