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high standing leather collar ??

Started by Auryn, September 07, 2012, 11:29:32 AM

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Auryn

I need a little advice
I am working on a tall, hopefully flared and standing leather collar for a capelet
It will be lined.

Should I put some kind of boning or interfacing to it??
Normally I work with veg tanned leather and I can make it do whatever I want, this is softer tanned/colored leather- maybe3.5-4.5 oz in weight

The collar will be about 3.5" in height from the base of the neck- visualize a button down blouse with the collar popped up- about that height and flare.
Scissors cuts Paper. Paper covers Rock. Rock crushes Lizard. Lizard? poisons Spock. Spock smashes Scissors. Scissors dec

gem

Can we see the pattern pieces? Or at least an image similar to the finished look?

I'm visualizing something like this (the collar part):





I would almost always use some kind of interfacing in a collar, particularly one you want to stand up, just because you're asking the fabric/leather to do something against its nature, and because the weight of the seam around the edge will want to pull it back down and make it flop. I don't know what was done in period, but if you want to read a great argument in favor of interfacing, Kathleen Fasanella has a great one here at Fashion Incubator.

Auryn

thanks gem
that's a similar look to what I am envisioning

unfortunately its all in my head- haven't found anything online remotely similar to what I want to make.
I have the sketches and toille at home. Ill take pictures when I get there (hopefully soon, I am so over today)

The only difference from my vision and the picture you posted is that one of the lapels will cross over the other but I definitely want that sloped angle like your picture shows.

Scissors cuts Paper. Paper covers Rock. Rock crushes Lizard. Lizard? poisons Spock. Spock smashes Scissors. Scissors dec

CenturiesSewing

Fuse the leather to some interface, just do a few test bits first to get an idea of how it will change the drape.

Cilean



I have an example for a "Gollar" Which is the same partlet thingee that Gem speaks of,  if that helps at all!

http://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/01/06/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-gollar/


Cilean



Lady Cilean Stirling
"Looking Good is not an Option, It is a Necessity"
My Motto? Never Pay Retail

CenturiesSewing

You could also wire the edge ala buckram hats.

Kate XXXXXX

If you are lining it, I would be tempted to experiment with some light weight flat narrow steel boning...

Auryn

Well
after I literally wasted $30 of fabric (first time in my life I managed to cut the patterns out not once but 3 times)
I put a hold on this until saturday.

The leather side is cut out and perfect.
I was thinking of playing around with some feather boning like you mentioned Kate
but I don't have any steel boning
I just have the featherweight stuff they sell at Joanns

Centuries, I was thinking that too, to frame it like they do hat brims.
I am going to enclose all the edges with bias tape (even though I haven't decided what color yet) so I think I will be ok with nothing showing or poking trough if I go the way of the wire.


Thank you for the pattern Cilean,
I am saving that right now.
I technically finished the pattern of the collar but I like yours better so I am going to take it apart and redo it your way.
Scissors cuts Paper. Paper covers Rock. Rock crushes Lizard. Lizard? poisons Spock. Spock smashes Scissors. Scissors dec

Auryn

Just wanted to say thanks for all the good suggestions.
I ended up going with a heavy interfacing attached to the lining fabric and a curved design at the neck.
Overall I am happy with it.

now I just need to finish lining the darn thing and applying bias tape to everything
Scissors cuts Paper. Paper covers Rock. Rock crushes Lizard. Lizard? poisons Spock. Spock smashes Scissors. Scissors dec

Marietta Graziella

Terrific! I was hoping you'd post pics.  :)
Nothing clever to say here.  Not enough caffine yet.

Rani Zemirah

Can't wait to see the finished version! 
Rani - Fire Goddess

Aut disce... aut discede