Help! Garb makers I would like your input please

[Captain Dungcaster]

Here is my doublet. It is constructed of deerskin backed with Navy blue Irish linen. I am thinking of making some slashes in the leather and placing some Navy blue material behind the slashes and pulling it through the slashes just a bit. Those of you who create garb I would like to hear your ides/opinions. My character is Merchant class 16th Cent. Thank you in advance for any suggestions!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Seeing this smashing Doublet, doing slashes might not be a bad  idea on leather. Use a Fur Knife with a sharp blade if you do. Be careful.

I have seen portraits of slashes on Men's Doublets from the 16th Century be they made from Silk, Leather, or Velveteen.

[DonaCatalina]

It is a great looking doublet.

Question 1: is the linen backing adhered to the leather in some way?

Question 2: If you do do slash through both layers, have you considered a way to keep the linen from fraying as linen tends to do?

Question 3: If you don't slash through both layers, have you considered just letting the lining show through? Given time, the edges of the leather will curl open slightly.

Question 4: If you do wish to add blue fabric under the slashed leather, have you considered how you will attach it to the intact blue linen?

I think that the slashing would add pizzazz; but its not as easy as people think. I have tried the individual 'poofs' and they tend to want to come 'un-poofed' unless you hane stitch them in place.

[Captain Dungcaster]

Question 1: is the linen backing adhered to the leather in some way?  "No it is not"

Question 2: If you do do slash through both layers, have you considered a way to keep the linen from fraying as linen tends to do?  "I am only going to slash the leather."

Question 3: If you don't slash through both layers, have you considered just letting the lining show through? Given time, the edges of the leather will curl open slightly. "Ok, sounds cool"

Question 4: If you do wish to add blue fabric under the slashed leather, have you considered how you will attach it to the intact blue linen?  "I was just going to insert it carefully into one of the slashes and using a rod of some sort maneuver it behind all of the slashes that would be in a row and surface tension should keep it in place".

My idea being that I would have four vertical slashes each about 1 1/2 inches long or so set at an angle near the top of the garment and five of the same just under the four slashes but offset from the previous slashes.

[isabelladangelo]

Using a rod to input additional fabric won't work and it will look odd.  The leather will stretch a bit but the linen lining won't, causing the seams to become funky.   Not to mention that, even if you managed to adhere the insert fabric to the top somehow, the "fluffiness" will deflate.

Slashing was typically a small thing and it was mainly the Germans that did the "pull the shirt on through".  Even then, the slashing and pulling through started because they'd take the clothing from other people even if it didn't fit.   If your doublet fits you, I'd shy away from changing it like this. 

If you really want to go through with it, rip out the lining.   Use the lining as a base pattern in case you want to make a doublet in the future or want to re-line it.

Get some leather binding that is close to the color of your doublet.  A lot of 18th C specialty stores have leather binding for stays.

Get some sort of pinking tool.  You can use the modern shaped hole punch but test them on a similar thickened fabric before using it on your doublet.

You want the slashes and pinking to be even, like this: http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museumoflondon/images/microsites/med_gall/derivatives//medweb/full/36_237.jpg

All that being said, I think if you want to just embellish it, I'd either add trim or try my hand at embroidering it, or embossing it. 

[CenturiesSewing]

Wood chisels or even a sharpened screwdriver can work for pinking and slashing. Have you run across Scott's pinked leather jerkin diary?
http://garb4guys.blogspot.com/search/label/Leather%20Jerkin

[gem]

Wood chisels or even a sharpened screwdriver can work for pinking and slashing. Have you run across Scott's pinked leather jerkin diary?
http://garb4guys.blogspot.com/search/label/Leather%20Jerkin

I was thinking of just that link!

My thoughts are that your doublet is absolutely gorgeous, and I wouldn't mess with it!! But if you were so inclined, have a good look at that blog Centuries posted. Lots of info and experience.

[Ser Niall]

I agree, I wouldn't mess with that doublet.  It's perfect the way it is; sometimes less is more.

If you wanted to do a pinked and slashed leather doublet, I'd make a new one.  That way, you can add the pinks and slashes while the leather pieces are still separate.

[Maithu Ruadh]

I'd like to know where you got a doublet like that! I've been looking for ages for a light leather/suede jerkin/doublet.

[Captain Dungcaster]

Maithu,
I had it made here locally in Richmond, Va. by a lady who does costumes for theater productions and some historical pieces. She has two large pattern books for Elizabethan patterns as well as other books. The leather is deerskin and not hard to find at all.