Poofy back neckline

[gem]

My otherwise beloved high-necked partlet (the MA freebie) tends to poof up in back. Part of that is solved if I tie it nice and snug below the bust--but part of it seems to be in the construction, the way the neckline is gathered into the collar. Here's a good view of extreme poofage:



I'm now making a high-necked smock, and want to make sure this doesn't happen again.

Anyone have suggestions for avoiding neck/back poof?

Gramercy!!

[TiaLD77]

Gem the only thing i can think of is to make it so that it isnt gathered. I cut a rectangle of cloth the width of my shoulders, basically make it like a key hole neck opening and attach the collar.

Does that help or even make sense?

[PollyPoPo]

I'm not much of a seamstress, but I remember seeing an episode of Sewing with Nancy that addressed the poorly fitting back.  They made adjustments in the back-to-arm hole region to take up excess or adding easing to adjust the back problem.  They did kind of a darting on a muslin to get the fit across the back, adjusted the length, then cut the final fabric in that shape instead of the back piece that came with the pattern.

It made sense when I watched the video, but I do not know how to describe it.  Perhaps some of the real dress designers/makers here can explain.

[isabelladangelo]

I'd cut the neck lower in the back.   Before you put on the collar, baste the pleats or gathers.   Try on the chemise with a bodice without the collar.  Mark where the neckline needs to be recut and then let out the basting stitches.  This way, you can see where you actually need to cut for future chemises as well. 

[gem]

Thank you all! Isabella, that made perfect sense--and, more importantly, I will be able to explain the steps to my fitting assistant!

[Goody]

Seems to me if it is a smock you could just pull on your sleeves and the neck area would be taut?

[captmarga]

I tend to find that happens when the shoulders are WIDER than me.  You get the extra fabric there, which is why so often things are heavily gathered in that time period.  They made shirts of rectangles, they weren't shaped and fitted, and so you got pouf and bunch.

For personal fit I make the shirt less bulky and narrower.

Marga