Newbie Help with Highland Garb

[Raelyn Fey]

Hello, I'm very new to the Renaissance Fair scene. I attended my first one last year in Ohio and fell in love with it. I threw together a costume that I enjoyed wearing, but I would like to get some advice on making a relatively cheap Irish/Celtic/Highland garb for the fair this year. I'm not going 100% accurate, but I'd love any information you guys can give me.

This was my costume last year:


Edit: I plan on keeping the skirt so far, but changing the top to a white chemise (originally i wanted a green one, but  the white was suggested to be better). I also plan on buying this over dress.


I have brown "Robin Hood" boots I'd probably use from last year.


I'd like other opinions and ideas from you more seasoned fair folk. I have 8-9 months to plan this, but I'm getting a head start so I'm not running around last minute. One of my big questions is about hairstyles. I have long hair (mid back), but it's really fine, prone to humidity, and a little flyaway. What suggestions do you have for a Celtic style that may have been worn during the Renaissance? I've tried to look things up, but I usually get Hollywood/Fashion's idea instead of anything remotely authentic. I would prefer it down, but I'm not sure how to keep it tame outside.

[isabelladangelo]

In the Renaissance, you would have worn you hair in braids, pinned or sewn up, and a cap over your hair to prevent dirt and grease.   However, since you are looking at the fantasy look and not the accurate, (I would HIGHLY suggest looking at http://www.wga.hu and using the search engine to look at a wide variety of Renaissance styles in portraits as well as http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Various_Nobles.htm), I would suggest using a hair gel or brocato freeflex (what I use when I need my hair to stay in curls).

Also, if you want thicker, stronger hair I would suggest eating more protein.   Red meat if you are a omnivore; peanut butter and nuts if you are a veggie person.  You also need to take fish oil or eat more fish to help with your hair growth and thickness.  Plus don't wash your hair every day - wash it every other day.  Your hair needs the natural oils your body produces to protect itself.  Go ahead and take a bath everyday or a shower but wear a shower cap.  You have months to prepare your hair and doing all of this should help.

In period, the shirt (called a chemise for women or shift) was almost always white.  Rarely, but particularly in Ireland, they were yellow. Rather than the "Irish Dress" (which isn't Irish, btw), I'd go with a bodice and skirt - you can change out the skirts and a good bodice should last you a long while.   

[Raelyn Fey]

I'll look into trying to get more protein in my diet. I'm definitely not a red meat person, so I'll look at other sources. Luckily, I already don't shampoo every day. I also use more natural hair products as well which helps. Thanks for the advice.

After looking at the colors, I agree white would look better. I'll be pricing chemises soon and deciding what sleeve style I like. I still kinda prefer the 'Irish dress', but I'd totally be open to any websites that has examples of bodices.

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

You could always put your hair up in a snood.  Either crochet one yourself, or you can get them pretty inexpensively from Ebay.  I can't remember the site, but I think Pillaged Villager has snoods, too.  Also, some kind of flat cap or muffin cap would look nice with your garb.

If you're not going for historical accuracy, wear whatever color chemise you want.  I have white, red, black, wine, yellow, cream, gold, lime green, orange, and beige.  Whatever I like to go along with my skirts and bodices.   

[isabelladangelo]

For a bodice, I'd go with etsy if you don't want to make one yourself.  The bodice will be $$$ but it will also last you for a few years if it's good.   You need to look up "Elizabethan Stays" or "Pair of Bodies" on etsy to see all the various bodices available.   If you just look up "bodice" you'll get some not so nice piece - however people who know the proper terms (stays and pair of bodies) for the garments tend to be better at making the garments.     If you do make one yourself, there are a TON of awesome patterns out there and you can make your own for under $30 if you use duct ties for the boning.  (The reason most of us start sewing is because we don't want to pay $1000 for that lovely noble outfit when we can make the same thing for $50)  We'd be happy to help out over on the sewing board.   

Skirts are ridiculously easy to make but they are also cheap for that reason.   Go with linen or wool for your skirts - both as a comfort issue and an accuracy one.   It's what was used in period but linen can be wonderfully light and helps to keep moisture away from the body (most chemises are made from it) and wool absorbs moisture but can still feel "dry" even if it's 25% filled with water.  so, both are awesome on those rainy muggy days of fair.   

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Depending on what you are willing to spend, Moresca and Pendragon make wonderful bodices.  They are expensive but worth it.  They are very well made and hold up for years.  One of my Pendragon bodices is 7 years old, gets lots of wear because I love it, and it still looks new.

If you want to go for something less expensive, Odd Bodkin has great bodices.  They sometimes sell on Ebay and also have their own website.  I would say they are a good standard bodice, wear well, and hold up.  I owned one for a long time, then it didn't fit anymore, so I sold it.

And for the least expensive option, on Ebay there is a store called FaireLadyDesigns.  Her bodices are in the $30 - $50 range and are reversible.  They are lightweight with no boning, so there's no support at all.  But I bought 2 of them to wear at the 100+ degree days at faire when the humidity is also approaching 100%, and they are comfortable.  I like the fact that I can throw them in the washer when I get home from faire, and don't have to worry about them.

Caveat:  Here are 2 Ebay sellers that I would stay away from:  Royal Coffers (also known as Majestic Velvets) and Von Lancelot.  The first I have personal experience with, and the quality is not what I wanted.  The second, a lot of people here have had bad experiences.  I think this seller changes his name a lot.  I tried to look for him on Ebay now and didn't see his name.  However, he uses Oriental models, and there is another seller called quill and ink that might be him.

There is also a thread somewhere in garbing about merchants to avoid, filled with horror stories!  If you see something online that you like, read the thread to see if the vendor is listed in there!

One other thing that might be helpful.  Unless you have someone who can lace you up, a front lacing bodice is easier to get into.  Also, bodices that have 2 side laces are not too bad if you have do lace yourself, but bodices that lace up the back definitely need someone else to do the lacing.  Of course, you could always find a cute guy in the parking lot........   

[isabelladangelo]

And for the least expensive option, on Ebay there is a store called FaireLadyDesigns.  Her bodices are in the $30 - $50 range and are reversible.

...There is no such thing as a reversible bodice.  I know a lot of people claim they make reversible bodices but those are the exact sellers you want to stay clear from.  If the bodice has any boning in it - which it should- the boning itself will conform to your figure, making it more comfortable overtime.  (You'll notice on some much beloved bodices that the bodice itself "curves" out at the hips or bustline even though it had been perfectly straight when it was brand new)

Also, you can lace up the back if you know what you are doing.  Yes, front lacing is easier but back lacing is not impossible - I do it all the time by myself.   The easiest way to do back lacing also turns out to be the period way (surprise!  )  Spiral lacing is the way the vast majority of lacing was done in the 16th C.   It requires one lace and you can very loosely keep the upper back part of your bodice laced.  When you get the bodice on, use a mirror to yank the lace tight and then finishing the lacing at the bottom. 

A lot of the good sellers have left eBay (although not all) due to the latest changes to the site.  Etsy is where a lot of people ended up but I've also heard good things about artfire. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Having looked over the vendors on esty, there a few who stand out becuase of the care taken in what they make. I do not recall the names of the vendors, but there are a few good ones.

It all depends on what one is looking for in price range, fabrics used, attention to detail, etc.

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

And for the least expensive option, on Ebay there is a store called FaireLadyDesigns.  Her bodices are in the $30 - $50 range and are reversible.

...There is no such thing as a reversible bodice.  I know a lot of people claim they make reversible bodices but those are the exact sellers you want to stay clear from.  If the bodice has any boning in it - which it should- the boning itself will conform to your figure, making it more comfortable overtime.  (You'll notice on some much beloved bodices that the bodice itself "curves" out at the hips or bustline even though it had been perfectly straight when it was brand new)

Sorry isabella, I agree to disagree with you.  The bodices I bought are not historically accurate, nor do I claim they are.  But they are an inexpensive way to have a decent look without spending a lot of money on a bodice, especially if you're a newbie and want something to wear and can't afford a $275 Moresca bodice or a $100 Odd Bodkin bodice, or you can't sew.   Would I wear them in a costume contest?  No.  Do they fit perfectly?  No, there are some gaps.  But for $30, I don't expect to compare it to my other bodices.

And, they are comfortable and help keep me from spending part of the day in first aid due to overheating from my health issues.  And they don't look too bad, I think.  Just my opinion.  Whether others agree or disagree, they are free to do so.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

"There is no such thing as a reversible bodice.  I know a lot of people claim they make reversible bodices but those are the exact sellers you want to stay clear from.  If the bodice has any boning in it - which it should- the boning itself will conform to your figure, making it more comfortable overtime.  (You'll notice on some much beloved bodices that the bodice itself "curves" out at the hips or bustline even though it had been perfectly straight when it was brand new)"




A forum member that would disagree with you, isabella, is the Wee Wench. Her bodices are well made, boned, and reversible as she is the Faire FInery by The Candle Queen on eBay. Her bodices  are reasonable in price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Renaissance-WENCH-DRESS-Pirate-Bodice-Corset-Skirt-Halloween-Clothing-Costume-/221147632973?pt=US_Reenactment_Theater&hash=item337d6d154d

[isabelladangelo]

People are free to disagree - it doesn't make them right.   

Boning -even steel- will bend to your figure.  If you are constantly wearing the bodice one way and then the other not only will the boning "pinch" you (because you are forcing it to bend one way and then the other) but it will also break down and not be as strong as it should be.  Think about what happens when you bend anything - be it paper or metal- one way and then the other - it causes it to "stress" at the bending point and, eventually, break.  The same goes for any type of boning.  If you want to have long lasting bodice, stays, and corsets, never, ever wear them one way then the other. 

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I hope that by this point, Irish Maiden Faire has read enough to make up her own mind.  If she wants to be 100% historically accurate (which she said she didn't) or whether she wants to pick things she likes and feels good wearing, based on her budget, I'm sure she will look fantastic in whatever she decides to do.

There is only 1 rule:  To have fun.  The rest are just guidelines.     

[Raelyn Fey]

Wow! Thank you so much for some extra help. I'm not looking to be 100% accurate for budget reasons, but I did want to know what was out there. You guys are great

I know I won't be able to afford everything, so this will be for the future, but what footwear do you guys like to use? What is the most comfortable for all day walking around? I'm from Ohio about an hour from Columbus, so if you know any stores locally or online I would appreciate it.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

AS for Shoes, there are many here on this wonderful community who know the better Shoe Vendors. But I do know that going on the cheap as far as shoes go will have consequences in the long run.

I have a  pair of flats called Mary Janes that I bought several years ago from a Shoe Vendor at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival, my home Faire, that cost $75. THey are made of leather, have Memory foam padding, and I can be on my feet all day and feel terrific. I wear them with my regular garb and with regular clothing.. They have a thick sole to absorb the tension of various terrains.

When wearing Noble garb, I have a pair of Brazilian Leather Boots with a  wide 2 1/2" heel. Again, thick soles, plenty of cushioning and support. That helps my skirts from dragging on the ground and helps with posture. My feet feel terrific at the end of a long day at Faire.

THe shoes one wears at Faire I think, are the most important piece of one's Garb. If your feet do not feel good after a few  hours at Faire, you begin to feel it it your knees, then eventually your back.  Your body aches all over by the end of the day.

Many Faires have terrains that are flat to much climbing, even rocky. Seeing what the performers wear and asking queastions about all day comfort is a good place to start. For a pair of Shoes for Faire is not going to be cheap, but a good investmenmt and can mean fun or pain by the end of the day.

And if your skirts are long, a good pair of Walking shoes with Arch , Heel, Ankle support will suffice just as well for a start. Nothing flimsy. New Balance, Nike, Avia, Sketchers, all make good Walking Shoes. They range in price from $50 to $100 in price. The better you take care of your feet at Faire, the better fun you will have as a result.

[isabelladangelo]

Shoes, luckily, don't have to be $$$.   I normally wear something similar to these:
http://pillagedvillage.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=51_64&products_id=671

Mary Janes were very popular and common in the 15th and 16th C. 

http://www.garbtheworld.com//instock/catalog.php?page=1&category=Shoes

I haven't bought from the vender above but they are having a sale on some rather lovely shoes.   

Many shoes don't come with arches in them (they are flat inside) so you might want to buy some Doctor Scholls to slip in them.   Remember, you will be on your feet most of the day when you wear them, so you'll want to walk around in your new shoes a bit before wearing them to fair. 

[LadyFae]

The shoes I wear depend on which character I'm being each day.  For Fairy I have cheap, colorful flats with a nice cushy insole.  For Pirate (or muddy days) I wear boots.  Sometimes I wear black MaryJanes with a cushy sole.  Comfort is DEFINATELY key!  Also, no matter how many times you've worn your shoes before make sure that you have band-aids with just in case you develop blisters walking on a totally different terrain. 

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

A lof of performers (and others) wear ghillies.  Steve and I both are wearing them in the Buchanan tartan picture (I have them on in the other picture, too, but you can't see them).  Renboots, Native Earth, son of sander (I think?), Medieval Moccasins, and probably a dozen more shoe companies make them.  Very comfortable to wear all day.  I guess that's why so many cast members wear them.

Something to take into consideration is the terrain at your faire.  At Bristol, it is very pebbly.  There are ghillies that have open toes like sandals.  They are really cute, but I know I'd go crazy all day trying to get the pebbles out.  You already have great boots.  If you haven't already, you might want to spray waterproofing on them for rainy or muddy days at faire.

I agree with Lady Kathleen.  Uncomfortable shoes will definitely ruin a great day at faire.

[Raelyn Fey]

My fair is grassy with dirt pathways. I didn't notice a lot of rocks. My boots help up pretty well for being 'fashion' boots. I put some insoles in them, so that helped a lot. I will probably use them again, but I wanted some other options if I'm able to become more serious about costumes. I'd seen the Ghillies before, but my feet are harder to fit, so I'd have to try them on to know what size I'd need. How much do Ghillies usually run?

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I would say around $70 to $80, maybe some cost a little less, some a little more.  It is a given that at any large faire, there is a vendor selling shoes/boots, so I would check with them.  Definitely try them on.  I have custom orthotics for my regular shoes, but my ghillies are so comfortable, and so well-cushioned inside, that I am able to wear them the whole day at faire with no inserts.  Be sure, if there are more than 1 vendor, to go to all of them and try them all on.  Some are more cushioned inside, some aren't.  Mine feel like marshmallows, but still give great support.

My husband's ghillies are around 5 years old.  Mine are 3 years old.  My former pair lasted for over 10 years, before my foot changed (due to my foot problems), and I needed a bigger size, so 3 years ago, I gave them to a friend, and she still wears them.  So a good pair will last a really long time.

[Raelyn Fey]

Are all Ghillies basically the same in design? I was just doing some research on them and found the dance ones with whole sole and split sole. I would assume whole sole would be best for fair walking. They looked so much like a normal dance shoe, I wasn't sure if I was looking at the right thing.

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

You don't want the dancing kind.  You want the kind for faire.  If you go on the Medieval Moccasin's website (I don't have that kind.  They aren't at any faires around us.) , you can see a wide variety of ghillies.  Queen Bonnie wears these, I believe, and they look very nice.

[Raelyn Fey]

Thank you! I could only find the dancing kind which made me very confused because I doubted they'd be good for walking. I'll take a peek at the website.

[Claddaghdesigns]

Check the alley off sawmill and 161 for shoes and corsets.  If your looking for Irish dresses my wife sews them and could probably give you some pointers if your handy with a machine.  Also there are quite a few local leatherworkers too that may be willing to make you ghillies. 

[Raelyn Fey]

The Alley apparently is less than an hour from me, so I'll definitely be giving them a visit soon =)