My first Tudor Tailor piece

[Wickedvox]

So I may have mentioned (on multiple posts recently lol) that I finally got The Tudor Tailor--say it with me--squeeeeee! It's my first time *ever* sizing up patterns so I'm starting small with a bongrace. One of my summer stash finds was two rolls of dot and cross pattern paper, only it's from about 1975--but it was still shrink wrapped. It's vellum and it is *trapped* in a curve shape, even after weighing it down with weights for a few days. Any suggestions? And it tears really easily, but I don't think there's a solution for that other than being careful.

So I read on the tudor tailor website how to scale up, and I get it, but is there a bit of guestimation involved? I ended up marking out the borders and a few key strategic spots then used my curved rulers to line everything up. The edges of the top and bottom of the bag aren't exactly the same. This probably isn't the best time to try to figure this out as I'm very fatigued and easily confused, but I need to take study breaks or I'll go mad. Any advice for me?

[gem]

I find the graphs in Janet Arnold MUCH less fiddly and "guess-y," and in general far more precise. So, in short, yes. It took me three very careful evenings to enlarge the Elizabethan waistcoat from TT, and I still have deep misgivings about the armscye and sleeve cap curves.

As for the vellum--can you iron it? Dry cooler iron, like you would pattern paper (it works a treat on getting the curve out of wrapping paper). I iron everything, though, so take that for whatever it's worth!

Lastly, it's been my experience with TT hats that they run small. I have a smallish head and thin hair, and most hats are too large on me, and the Tudor bonnet I made (? My avatar hat) is actually snug.

[Wickedvox]

Okay good. Joann's finally started selling something called unicorn buckram (at least the one by me), anyone ever hear of it? Just wondering what the difference is between that and the other kinds. So I have questions (of course) to make sure I'm putting the mock-up together right.

Here's the brim after basting the buckram and "domette"--which is really just a thin polyester batting (it's what I had on hand)--together at the CB:


This is after sewing wire to the edge:


This is how I'm pinning the batting over the wired edge--is it right?


And this is the constructed bag:

It's supposed to be "baggy" on top, right?
Everything look kosher?

[Wickedvox]

Does anyone have a picture of a finished bongrace?? Particularly where the top fabric is attached to the bag? The way they describe butting the edge in the back top fabric and the bag is irritating me. I attached the bag to the buckram and domette *only* THEN am sewing the top fabric to the back. That's the way it says (unless I'm stupid, which is a distinct possibility) to attach them. Why can't I attach the top fabric *then* the bag? Wouldn't it hide it better? What am I missing?? It said to sew the edges of the bag to the underside of the brim, which I did, then butt the edges together in the back. I don't think 3-D so I just don't get it. Anyone?

[CenturiesSewing]

Wicked, I have my copy of TT in my lap. I haven't made the bongrace but I have made the french and gabled hoods.

First off unicorn buckram is very very thin, I usually double it when I'm working with it. Second did you wire all of the pattern? It looks like you only have the front wired in the photos, this make a difference in giving the buckram more structure.

I use quilt batting all the time in place of domette, it hasn't given me a problem yet.

So how I'm reading the instructions, Sew the bag to the underside of the brim, then the top fabric, the seam allowances being pressed under, then the lining is hand sewn in place. So you are sandwiching the bag between all the layers. If you want to sew down the top fabric first and then sew in the bag, go for it I doubt will make a difference.

[Wickedvox]

Oooooooh! So *that's* the difference! Okay, I'll see how the finished mock-up sits and maybe I'll double it.
Ooooooh...again...*headdesk* I'm an idiot. I read "wire the brim" and just thought FRONT. Cause I've never made a hat. That's why I'm wondering where the instructions are for the sides...there are none lol. So it should be wired through the *back* too??
Okay, I may do that for the real one. The issue I'm having is how to butt the seams, but I think I'm starting to visualize it.
Cool! Once again I'm in your debt...and gem...and isabella...and lol...seriously, thank god for you guys/ladies.
Sewing the bag into the back of the brim was...how do I put this delicately...an ache of the highest rank in the posterior region. Is it always like that? It was so hard to position it to be held, work around the pins, and get the stitching just so. Ugh.

[CenturiesSewing]

Yup, wire it all the way around, over lap the wire ends where they meet and whip stitch them together.

Curved needles help a lot with sewing hats, I'm not too sure where to find ones that are not for quilts or upholstery sewing however.

[Wickedvox]

Ooooo curved needles...good idea! I'll keep an eye out. This may constitute a run to Habermann's  Thanks again my friend!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

A good Buckram source on the web is Judith M Millinery. Same goes with Millinery wire.

[bookwench]

I have a friend who uses curved surgical needles for awkward sewing angles.  I made my own by heating up a millinery needle and *gently* bending it with pliers.  Not nearly as nice as the surgical ones, but with 2am sewing you do what you can. 

I second the Judith M recommendation for buckram, as well as Hats by Leko.  Both are great resources.  Good luck! 

[Margaret]

Oh Ms. Wickedvox!  How close are you to Royal Oak?  Haberman Fabrics has buckram, the wire and all the cool stuff.  They also sell steel boning, spring steel and other types.  They have coutil for corsets as well.

Also, if you show up on a Sunday, you may be able to talk to my friend Trish who creates lovely Ren/French-Indian/Steampunk/Vic clothing.  She could help you with any question.

[Wickedvox]

Oooo I just love you ladies! Thank you so much! Wish I had a clinical rotation on the surgical unit Does she buy them bookwench, or "stumble" on them in a hospital atmosphere?

Margaret--I *love* Haberman, but I didn't think of them for hat supplies! Makes sense--they carry everything Joann's doesn't. If I go on a Sunday I'll keep an eye out for her. Every time I go there I want to make my own bras lol. I've never seen their coutil collection though, I'll have to check that out. That nursing salary can't come soon enough.

[bookwench]

Her mother was somehow connected to the medical industry (I don't remember exactly how, its been a while), but she got them through her mom. I wish I had that connection!