Help a newbie with her bodice

[tigrlily64]

So, I finally got the bodice I wanted, and my mom and I are just staring at it, wondering exactly how it's supposed to be laced.  From top to bottom?  The reverse?  It probably ends  up like a shoe, right?  Then how do you tie it?  In a bow?

Thanks for helping me out.

[robert of armstrong]

The way it was explained to my wife and I is that a proper, chaist lady is laced from the top down, tying at the bottom.  Required more time and effort for the, um, err, well, you know, to be exposed.

Faster women would be laced from the bottom up, making exposure, should it be warranted, quicker and easier.

[isabelladangelo]

The historical way to lace

Anything else is Renn Faire myths and person choice.

[Master James]

The historical way to lace

Anything else is Renn Faire myths and person choice.

Not only is this historically acurate, its WAY easier than modern methods and it holds far better too!

[Margaret]

Spiral lacing is difficult if not impossible if the holes are not off set.  The ladder lacing works great though.

I lace my front closing 'wench' bodices starting at the bottom and ending at the top - tied in a bow.

[Master James]

quote author=Margaret link=topic=1926.msg28619#msg28619 date=1215126904]
Spiral lacing is difficult if not impossible if the holes are not off set.  The ladder lacing works great though.

I lace my front closing 'wench' bodices starting at the bottom and ending at the top - tied in a bow.
[/quote]

Not true at all.  My wife has several bodices with grommets that are not offset and it spiral laces very nicely.  You just go across, and then up one and then across and then up one, etc....  Works perfectly.[

[isabelladangelo]

As Master James said, it's fine if the lacing holes/rings aren't off set.  I always spiral lace and never have had a problem.  Ladder lacing is actually harder for me.  Just try both and see which one you prefer.

[gypsylakat]

I had seen a few examples where the holes weren't offset and it caused the bottom or top to not match up (with spiral lacing)

[Master James]

I had seen a few examples where the holes weren't offset and it caused the bottom or top to not match up (with spiral lacing)

I have seen that happen too but that is usually when the top is not finished off properly.  You must start you bow around not only your last lace but the one before it as well and pull them both together with a half hitch (first part of the bow for you knotically challenged people  ).  Then you finish it off with a half bow and it is just fine.

[Once Debauched]

I had seen a few examples where the holes weren't offset and it caused the bottom or top to not match up (with spiral lacing)

I have seen that happen too but that is usually when the top is not finished off properly.  You must start you bow around not only your last lace but the one before it as well and pull them both together with a half hitch (first part of the bow for you knotically challenged people  ).  Then you finish it off with a half bow and it is just fine.

Is this how everyone is tying off their spiral lacing?  I've often wondered HOW these single strand lacings were tied.

[Baroness Doune]

Depends how the lacing ends up.

I have a corset where the lacing ends up on the outside of the bottom.  I go back through the same hole, round the boned edge, and stick the end through the little loop created.

I could also go back through the hole on the opposite side and bring the ends in between the boned edges and tie off at the last crossing point with a half hitch or double half hitch.

Or use the end to do a half hitch around the last crossing point. Double half hitch also works.

I have a bodice laced with a long doubled shoestring.  I lace from bottom to top and the lacings end up on the outside.  I go back through the hole on the opposite side and tie off with a little bow, which is then tucked in the top of the bodice.

[renren]

I never knew their was so much to learn about lacing!

I have a question, is it hard to find grommets/eyelets large enough when using 2 laces/strands?

[isabelladangelo]

Is this how everyone is tying off their spiral lacing?  I've often wondered HOW these single strand lacings were tied.

I just do a single tie at the top of the lacing, lace down, and do another tie around at the bottom.   Basically, you make a loop and stick one end of the lacing through the loop.  Everyone does it different and the paintings show a couple of different methods...

[isabelladangelo]

I never knew their was so much to learn about lacing!

I have a question, is it hard to find grommets/eyelets large enough when using 2 laces/strands?

Grommets come in all sizes (go to your local boat store to see some really big ones).  However, I would stay away from them if possible.  Grommets tend to wear at the fabric and cause damage later on.   I'd use lacing rings (typically the home decorating area of a fabric store but you can get them online) or just hand sewn eyelets instead.

Out of curiosity, why would you use two laces?

[renren]

to quote Baroness.. unless I misunderstood.
"have a bodice laced with a long doubled shoestring.  I lace from bottom to top and the lacings end up on the outside.  I go back through the hole on the opposite side and tie off with a little bow, which is then tucked in the top of the bodice."

[Baroness Doune]

I use 00 size grommets.  The 00 size is as small as grommets come.

For lacings where I am concerned about authenticity, I use sewn eyelets which are quite a bit smaller than the 00 size grommets.  A bodkin is usually needed to lace up.

The reason for the double lacing of the bodice was because the shoestring was very long and I was reluctant to cut because it would have frayed badly.  Those plastic ends on shoelaces allow for easy lacing.  The doubled shoestring does cover up a bit more of the non period grommets.

[renren]

Thanks

[Master James]

Lacing rings are also an option as they are period as well depending on the type of garb you are making.  Lacing rings were pretty expensive so they would go well with upper middle class and noble garb, probably not so well with the lower classes, if you are looking for authenticity that is.

[Merry]

Just to give another option....hand sewn lacing holes.  It you don't have access to a gromet tool, this works well.  It also is good for when you have to place a hole thru multiple layers of thick fabric!  I use a nice pointy knitting needle or awl to pierce the fabric...stretch the hole to the desired diameter and embroider a buttonhole/satin stitch along it's rim.   Restretch as needed and remember, the floss takes up space so make the hole a bit bigger to accomodate.   I prefer stretching the fabric to punching a hole because it makes the hole more stable, no broken threads to fray.  It makes a very strong lacing hole that holds up to even the tightest lacings.  Hand sewn lacing holes are also nice because you can choose the color of floss. 

Hand sewing the holes is also good for repairs.  It's almost impossible to re-attach a grommet, but you can repair the existing hole by hand sewing the satin stitch.  On the rest of the gromets that are still good...just sew over them:)  A little reinforcement never hurts. 

[Randal]

I just skimmed this topic, so please forgive me if I repeat something. Don't use satin ribbon for lacing. It will slip, and you'll spend all day worrying with it. If you must use ribbon, use grosgrain. It's much less likely to slip. Shoe laces are actually a good, practical lacing material. Rat-tail cord, in natural fibers, also works well, but may be difficult to untie at times, especially after it gets wet. Whatever you use, always carry an extra piece or two.

Randal