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Help with collars... Of many kinds!

Started by Oswyn Fenecote, April 15, 2013, 11:17:30 AM

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Oswyn Fenecote

I'm having a bit of trouble with my neck in general. :)

I wear mostly later 1500's ensembles. (mostly). I am however having a spot of trouble making the standing collar of the doublet (i assume it should be rigid and close-ish fitting). i have one on there now, i added it once the doublet was finished. it does not allow the doublet to lay correctly tho, so it kind of pops open.
i will try to draw with keys.... hehe
                           
                                \_____/        <--(shirt collar fluff poking out the top)
it should lay            _l         l_     this way, with a crisp definition between the doublet and the collar.

mine lays like this however...     l       l
                                                 /         \

I know my problem lies in the construction and attachment.... I used heavy interfacing (perhaps my first mistake) because i wanted it to be very sturdy... i hate wrinkled standing collars. When i connected it, i sewed the decorative parts to the interfacing, and attached it around the edge of the doublets collar. i cut v's so it couild bend around the curve, but with the interfacing going an inch below where I sewed it on, it doesn't want to bend enough. I hpoe this is making sense. :) shouild i perhaps create the collar and leave it open like a pocket, and just slide the interfacing in? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!


I was also wanting to make a seperate collar/cuffs set that will go with said standing collar. i love ruffles, and i love the box pleated version i seem to remember seeing on some folks. I can make something up if I need to, but if anyone has a link to something I would be in your debt.
Oswyn Fenecote

Kate XXXXXX

Can you post a photo? 

Was your collar piece curved to fit the neck curve, or a straight piece?

Is it too small?

And...  Is it too tall?

And finally...  How did you grade the seams and clip the curves?

When I do a doublet collar, the collar pieces are cut in a curve to fit the neckline.  The collar is constructed with a fashion fabric mounted on the interfacing (weight according to fabric type, and cut on the bias.  I should say that we always use woven interfacings), and lining (linen or cotton).  The collar is usually sewn, the seam allowances trimmed down to about quarter of an inch, and turned and pressed.  This is then sewn through all layers to the neckline, usually with a basting stitch.  When the lining is sewn in, the neckline seam allowances are graded and then clipped,  Lining, fashion fabric, and interfacings are clipped offset from each other to avoid that 'threepenny bit' effect you sometimes get.  We don't tend to get problems with creasing in the collar unless it is being pulled out of shape by the neckline or shoulders of the garment not fitting the wearer.  These fitting issues get worked out in the toile stages.

DonaCatalina

The pattern iI use is similar to this one from the ladies treasury.

As you can it is not perfectly straight but once it is assembled it will stand up. I use two laters of fashion fabric with one layer of heavy cotton twill as the interfacing. As Kate said, if the collar is too tall, the neckline will force it over and make it lay incorrectly.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Oswyn Fenecote

QuoteIs it too small?

And...  Is it too tall?

I giggled at this- it reminded me of Dr. Seuss. :)

Now that I see that picture, it makes sense why mine does not work. i mde it a straight piece (first mistake), and also i believe now too tall.

I'm making the collar for a different doublet this week, I will use this pattern and see how it goes. :D
I am self taught, so almost everything I do is trial and error. This was an error, but it still looks otay until I get something else worked up


Also, Dona Catalina, thanks for the cod piece patten! I've used it twice now. :)

AS always, thank you for the input! Greatly appreciated.
Oswyn Fenecote

Kate XXXXXX

Just remember on that collar (which is pretty much the same shape that we draft), the longer curved edge is the neck seam edge.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

  Collars for Doulebts are not overly a problem as  long as the neck opening does not exceed the length of the collar. I use the Fantrasy Fashion Pattern for most of the Doublets I make.

If the fabric I am using has plenty of body, I need not underline or interface the collar. If the fabric is of a lighter weight, I usually underline witha  piece of Cotton Canvas, then line the collar.



"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

DonaCatalina

LOL
I can't find a picture of the Don with his collar actually buttoned.

This is the collar style before the big ruffs became fashionable; but you can see the ruffled collar on the shirt.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess