Inspired newbie hoping to be more H/A

[Lady Heidi of Cordova]

Hi

  I am the proud new owner of these two patterns (one for me, one for my husband)

Simplicity 2589 (tudor gown  and  period patterns # 58 (various mens options I'm looking at view II, but want advice on that also)


I have done some reading and I feel that these two at least get me close, but I would love help tweaking to make them even more H/A.


I have some of my fabric already gold/copper muted thick satin in a natural fiber (cotton? rayon?) (can't be fully h/a on materials due to cost) and a dark blue fabric from the bargain bin..... that after burn tests.... turns out to be wool! it has a beautiful drape and sheen and is very masculine. 


I am considering  blue or spring green (light upholstery maybe?) and the copper for myself, and the  blue wool and copper for him.


I am pretty much a novice at sewing, but I am capable of following the directions and drafting as needed.


I plan to start by making shirt and shift (Looking for patterns) and the headwear. I am making a flat cap (bonnet) for him from a internet tutorial.



I look forward to any specific feedback you can give me as I start on this epic project. What parts should I follow closely? Which should I change?


I apologize, I have not yet figured out how to post photos


     Thank you in advance, Heidi

                                                                                   
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[isabelladangelo]

http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php/topic,19090.msg400632.html#msg400632

The above is a link to a list of links we all put together a while ago.  The list of links are of patterns available online.  A lot of them are shifts/smocks/chemises that you can easily do without a formal pattern.  Make sure you make them out of linen or a linen cotton blend - it will help you a lot later on.  (Joanns has a lovely hanky weight linen cotton blend that, if you use one of the 50% off coupons they send out every other week, is only $5 a yard)

For the dress/gown, stay away from upholstery fabrics.   They are often backed with something and will be way too hot.   Drapery fabrics can be alright on occasion but I'd stick to plain silks or cotton velvets for now.  Again, coupons are glorious.  However, I recently found 100% silk curtains at my thrift store so check around. 

Check outhttp://www.elizabethancostume.net/ for a lot of information.   

[gem]

Hail and well met, Heidi! Welcome to the forum!

For your undergarments, I recommend the companion pattern, Simplicity 2621. It's nicely drafted and gives the proper silhouette. (I'm wearing the corset in my avatar photo.)

I worked with my first Period Patterns pattern this year, myself, after shying away from them for years, because of complaints about their "bad instructions." Although I departed from the pattern about halfway through (LOL!), my experience was that it was *excellently* drafted (parts fit together beautifully, even after being traced multiple times--traced pattern, muslin, etc). And I actually thought the instructions were excellent, although it took a little practice to figure out the easiest way to navigate the instruction sheets (if you've pulled yours out yet, you'll know what I mean). I didn't find the illustrations that accompany the historical notes useful at all, especially compared to what you can find online these days--but when these patterns debuted, the information and images weren't as easy to find.

One of the best ways to become more H/A with your garb is to train your eye, so you can spot where things are "off" with patterns or fabric, and then adjust accordingly. Study period images, read dress diaries of costumers you admire, learn about period construction techniques (so you can decide for yourself where and when to deploy them for the best results)... rinse, repeat. Understand WHY a particular technique or material is recommended, so you can make the best decisions for yourself. For example, the practicality of white linen undergarments hasn't changed in 600 years, but you might prefer to finish your seams with your serger instead of hand-sewing French seams--or you may decide to go all out and do everything by hand, with only the "most accurate" materials you can find. YMMV, but it's helpful to build up a solid knowledge base of historical *and* modern techniques for your repetoire! You'll often see fine historical garments described as having "no visible machine sewing," which means that the costumer might have used modern techniques, materials, or construction on the interior of the garment, but the finishing details (hems, etc) have been done by hand. How much of that you personally want in your own costuming is up to you, and as you learn you'll find that these decisions come more naturally. (I just hand-sewed a gazillion yards of velvet guards onto a dress because it honestly was faster than figuring out how to do it by machine! But I've also slapped a machine-embroidered applique onto the thing, instead of doing it by hand. It's a balance. )

I also think one of the most important aspects of historical costuming is to make sure that your fit is exceptional. The proper fit will make any garment look more accurate. Learn where the waistline of a garment should be, how closely fitted it should be to the body, where the straps should sit on the shoulders, what the bustline looks like, where curves are suppressed or enhanced.  ...And then go and learn those things about your own body (and those that you sew for).

Most of all: HAVE FUN. This is a hobby, which means you do it for your own enjoyment and don't have to please anybody else. Don't be afraid to ask questions, and DEFINITELY don't be afraid to make mistakes. Learn a little something new on each project, and you'll be a happy historical costumer!

[Kate XXXXXX]

I can't recommend any particular patterns as we tend to draft our own.  One way to get more historically accurate is to look at portraits of the era you want to display, and to read as much as you can about the original cut and construction of the clothing you want to make.  Also think about how you will wear it.  There are lots of excellent books to read, but in particular look out for anything by Janet Arnold and Norah Waugh, the books from the team at The Tudor Tailor, and the ones on seventeenth century dress from the V&A.

Patterns I have used in the past and found good, or that I have heard good things about are those from The Tudor Tailor team, and Margot Anderson.  As I say, we tend to draft our own at Jolly Dicey, because that way we get the exact look and fit that we and the customer want.  It takes a bit of skill, but you'll get there!

[DonaCatalina]

Lady Heidi,
Have you seen a portrait or a dress that you like? Sometimes it does help to have a specific dress or look in mind before you start.
Simplicity 2589

The Melton Constable Hall Portrait (Formerly identified as Lady Jane Grey)

[Orphena]

Welcome, Lady Heidi!

How exciting to be planning new garb! I've not used either of those patterns myself, but in general, I've used several different Simplicity patterns. I think that it is important not to get TOO bogged down for your first effort - plan to start well in advance of your deadline (Advice that I never follow, myself!), and worry about one piece at a time!

Remember to start with the layers nearest the skin first - and keep those layers 100% cotton (or linen if you want to splurge). Faire - especially faire in costume is HOT and sweaty! - you want fabric that is easy to clean. I suggest making extra shirts - those weekends at faire you will love having a fresh new shirt for day 2! (Besides - it's historical to wash the innermost layer more often than the gown!)

Once you have the shirt done, be sure to do the underpinnings next (If you are going down that road!) Take very careful measurements IN your corset before you make the gown! A squishable dress dummy is great - use padding to make it the right size, and a pair of tights with dry beans inside put around the neck of the dummy and tied to the correct height will help you with the squishable bust area! 

And - one other thing - if you are adventurous, don't be afraid to mix and match different sleeves, or bodice shape to make your gown look a little different from the pattern! You don't really want people to be able to identify which pattern you used! - that said - I DO like that gown pattern! 

[Rowan MacD]

 Welcome Heidi!
    As has been said-always remember you are sewing for fun, not to make money or to impress anyone else.
    In the very unlikely event that someone actually does try to pick at your effort (this is considered bad form, in addition to being downright rude), point out that you had great fun making it, and you are happy with it.  Just by making it yourself, you have put more effort into both your outfits than the majority of patrons do, and it fits better ^_^.

   I have all three of the simplicity patterns above and have made all save the underpinnings.   These are good patterns for advanced beginner to intermediate sewers. 
  If you have never sewn anything this complicated before from a pattern, please ask anyone here to help with the instructions if you get stuck.   
  Many of the advanced seamstresses here have instructional
websites, pictures and videos.  They will happily share the links.
Once you have cut your teeth on Simplicity, you may decide to move on to the much more HA versions.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

  Welcome Heidi!

So much great information has been given you in the search for historically Accurate garb. There's not much more I can add but that UNDERGARMENTS are key to achieving the proper profile.

SIMPLICITY and Margo Anderson have excellent patterns for Elizabethan undergarments. For most of the patterns we use or draft, are designed to be worn over Undergarments of the time and not for modern bodies.

Enjoy the knowledge you will absorb in the coming weeks, perhaps years.

[Lady Heidi of Cordova]

[img]Thank you all for the feedback- I have been looking at many portraits and would love to post pictures, but haven't figured out how to yet on this site. (Could someone point me in the right direction please?)

Gem, Thank you for your suggestion of the undergarments pattern, I had been debating, but finally purchased it with a coupon. I like the bedsheet hoopskirt idea that another person has posted, but it will help a lot with the chemise etc.

Thank you for the portrait DonnaCatalina I was wondering about those  under sleeves (lol thought they looked weird) I just noticed her necklace/partlet/belt all seems to be one connected piece- interesting. I plan to make my gown as distinct as possible for my skill level, while following portraits etc along with the pattern.

I have completed the sewing on my husbands hat - and the hatband is in progress. it will be modeled after some period portraits I have seen.

I will be starting the shirt and chemise next along with the  farthingale. I have some cotton with a very nice look and feel to it but only enough to do one (either shirt or chemise), so still looking at fabric stores hoping for some linen on sale.

Is linen actually cooler than cotton as an under layer? (in the right weight of course) My husband tends to get hot easily, so I want to figure out the coolest way to make the garments.


Thank you all again and I'm sure I will have plenty more questions forthcoming,

                                                                                           Heidi
                                                                                                   

[Kate XXXXXX]

Linen has natural wicking properties, which cotton doesn't.  In absolute thermal qualities, no, it isn't 'cooler': but because the sweat is wicked away from the skin, you are cooler than you would be in the same weight of cotton.  This also has the effect that in cold weather, you have a DRY layer next to your skin, so stay warmer than with cotton undergarments.  Magic, innit!

[isabelladangelo]

To post pictures, highlight the address of where the picture resides on the internet, and then press the icon with the Mona Lisa in the second row to the left above the type space. 

As for the neckline/necklace/girdle (belt) being one piece - it isn't. (A partlet is a physical piece that goes on the shoulders and fills in the neckline) They often used the same "trim" for multiple pieces.  In this case, the pearls around the neckline were used to create the necklace and the girdle as well.  Another similar picture to illustrate this is the one of Princess Elizabeth:



The trim on her French hood (hat) is the same as around her neckline and her girdle.  However, it's clear the trim on the French hood ends as it does on the portrait above as well.

Sleeves of Henrican (Tudor) gowns aren't terribly difficult.  Depending on the year, they tend to either be a typical top fitted sleeve with the lower sleeve either being a big rectangle that it folded over or a big triangle that is folded over at the hem. 

Right now, linen is 40% off at my Joanns (Labor Day weekend sale).  Also check out ebay to see if anyone is selling white or off white linen.  Etsy is another good source to look for cheap linen.  I've gotten linen off of ebay before for as little a $5 for four yards. 

[gem]

Is linen actually cooler than cotton as an under layer? (in the right weight of course) My husband tends to get hot easily, so I want to figure out the coolest way to make the garments.

I am a huge fan and advocate of linen, and wear as much as possible of it whenever it's hot at Fair. That said, Milord (my husband) really prefers a sturdy cotton shirt in hot weather, so technical textile facts aside, it can often come down to personal preference (he also prefers heavier-weight T-shirts in mundane life). For a nice balance, Fabrics-store.com (a *fabulous* source for linen!) carries a linen-cotton blend that has some of the benefits of both--the softness & wicking of linen, the heftier hand of cotton--for the pretty reasonable price of $6/yard. It's a nice weight for men's shirts, but I would find it a little heavy for a chemise *for me.* YMMV!