Free Saxon/Landsknecht hat pattern (and a question)

[gem]

Genoveva von Lubeck has posted the .pdf instructions for the tellerbarret ("platter hat") class she taught at Pennsic on her blog. Click here & scroll down for the link.

Here's the blogger in her hat:


I read the instructions and they seem pretty straightforward, but I am puzzling over one particular step.

She instructs you to cut a binding strip the circumference of the hat (for example, 7x57"). Ok, I got that.

She then says:

5. Sew a casing with a narrow braid or ribbon along one edge of your wool strip. You will later use this ribbon to pull in the strip to the circumference of your head in step 9.

6. Sew the raw edge of the wool strip to the edge of the wool circle, right
sides together. Sew the narrow ends of the wool strip where they meet....

(unrelated steps 7-8 omitted)

...9. Turn your hat right side out, pull your braid/ribbon in the casing tight
until it fits your head, and try it on

Ok. This is what stumps me. If the binding strip is on the outside edge of the hat (which it sounds like, and which the length would suggest), how will using it as a casing allow you to pull it tighter to fit your head?

I'm asking because I'm using another set of instructions (also very good!) for making a similar hat, and the "head hole" (the inside circumference where my head goes) of my version is currently too large--an issue I have with many hats. I like the idea of using a drawstring casing to snug it up a little, but my brain comprehendeth this not.

Can anyone decipher it?

Gramercy!!

[mollymishap]

Gem, my notes are in red.  Does this help?  I'm only guessing, never having made this type of hat before.

5. Sew a casing with for a narrow braid or ribbon along one edge of your wool strip, then thread the narrow ribbon through the casing you just made.  You will later use this ribbon to pull in the strip to the circumference of your head in step 9.

6. Sew the raw edge of the wool strip to the edge of the wool circle, right sides together. Sew the narrow ends of the wool strip where they meet being careful to leave a space unstitched to pull the ends of the ribbon to snug to your size later....

(unrelated steps 7-8 omitted)

...9. Turn your hat right side out, pull your braid/ribbon in the casing tight until it fits your head, and try it on

Thanks for the freebie pattern, btw!

[gem]

Thanks, Molly! I understand that she's using the strip to make a drawstring casing. I got that.  It's an idea that really appeals to me, actually.

What I'm struggling with is the *location* of the drawstring and its subsequent functionality. I would think if the drawstring is meant to tighten the fit of the hat, it would need to be around your head (inside the hat). But it sounds like she's having you place the drawstring around the outside of the brim... and if that's the case, how does it work?

So I think I must be missing something.

***

Thanks for the freebie pattern, btw!

Isn't her blog great? She also has nice entries for the goldhaube (beaded gold caul) and the artificial braids that fill it out.

[mollymishap]

Gem, get the word "casing" out of your head for a moment; substitute it for "wide strip of fabric". 

In attaching the raw end of the wide strip of fabric all along the outside edge, then sewing the ends shut where they meet (being careful to leave a slight opening for your drawstring), then pulling said drawstring tight, you're creating a donut shape where the hole of the donut is what rests on top of your head.  The underside of the hat will be gathered at the edge next to your head but not gathered at the brim edge.

Look at the picture of her on pg 4 & you'll see what I mean.  The drawstring is what makes the hole for your head.

I hope I'm making sense...

ETA: It's like what you're making is a giant beret.  The raw edge of the wide strip of fabric attaches to the "top" of the beret's edge.  The other edge of the wide strip of fabric is what you've turned into a "casing" for the drawstring which will create the hole for your head.

[gem]

So the "strip" makes THE ENTIRE UNDERSIDE of the hat? (That would explain why they get so wide as they get longer! I think I was confused by the word strip, which sounds narrow and binding-y to me.) Ha-ha! Makes sense. Thanks for bearing with me, Molly!

This hat looks like it's made from the same method (since I can't link to the photo from the .pdf):


I actually prefer the smooth-bottom look produced by the other instructions linked in my first post, but it's nice to know of alternatives. I've also seen the gathered look produced by pleating down a large circle, or by wrapping the brim (which seems like it would take a huge amount of fabric).

[mollymishap]

LOL!  You're welcome.  If it's any consolation, the first time I read the instructions, I assumed "narrow" also.  It wasn't until I re-read the size of the strip that the lightbulb went on.  Glad to be of help.   

[Genoveva von Lubeck]

Sorry I confused you! I will update my instructions now to make this more clear for others. You two figured it out correctly, though. The drawstring creates the donut shape on the underside of the tellerbarret, which allows it to rest on your head comfortably. You can adjust that drawstring to make it larger or smaller based on your head size. The Tellerberret should sit on top of your head (or at angle) like a crown -- it does not come down very onto your head. You secure it in place with a hat pin (stuck through the hat, into your haube (hat), and, if possible, through your hairbraid on top of your head, or with a ribbon under your chin.

I really need to make that photo tutorial. I will try to do that this week! I've also made several other versions, including the smooth underside brim version, and I'm happy to answer any questions.

Genoveva

[gem]

Hail and well met, Genoveva! Thank you for stopping by!! Did I mention I think your website is wonderful? 

[Genoveva von Lubeck]

Thank you! I'm happy you enjoy it. I really love sharing what I know with others.

[mollymishap]

Hi, Genoveva & welcome to the forum!