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Full sleeve, narrow armscye?

Started by Sev, September 16, 2013, 10:29:45 PM

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Sev

So... I need a new shirt. But I need to change the fit of my pattern, and I don't have the resources to simply experiment until I figure it out, so I'm hoping you fine folk can help me get a better idea of what I need to do before I start cutting into what fabric I have!

My old one was getting very worn anyway. Then I wore it to a really hot event and decided to tear the sleeves off... so then I REALLY needed a new shirt. And then I got a new, strapless bodice that's just high enough for me to feel supported... but with no straps to keep the loose fabric of my shirt in check, things get kinda baggy... so now I REALLY REALLY need a new shirt!

My goal is basically to have something that fits a bit smaller, so there's less fabric to bag out, but without sacrificing range of motion. (This one's very important -- I do a lot of stage combat!) I think the main thing I need to do is form a much more snug armscye, of course keeping the gusseted construction... right? I suspect that'd be the biggest help, much more than reducing the bulk in the body of the shirt (though I have a feeling that would help, too).

I want to keep the sleeves somewhat full, though, probably only a little narrower than on my old shirt. But since I'd be pleating them to the body piece at the top of the shoulder, that shouldn't affect the fit of the armscye area, right? I think?

For reference, here's me on the left in my original shirt from last year, when it was still pretty new...



...and here's how things are now, with the new bodice and the torn-off sleeves:



I think you can see what I mean, about all that bagginess? I think it's from the fact that I'd made the shirt VERY roomy, and so in order to have full range of movement in my arms, I ended up pulling more of the gusset -- and, consequently, a great deal of the connecting fabric -- up and out of my bodice, which didn't matter when I wore the blue bodice since it had straps... but now, well... you can see it, haha.

Fortunately, my character's such a terrifying b****, nobody has the guts to comment on it =D


Sev

Will I still be able to work the full sleeves into it, though, without affecting the fit of the armscye? That was my concern, even if I pleat the fullness of the sleeve, I just have kind of a bad feeling about it haha...

isabelladangelo

Sorry, I was confused as to why you wanted a narrow armscye.  Yes, if you reduce the body bulk, it will help a lot with the other issues.   You can gather a sleeve (I know there is an extant shirt somewhere of a plain body but with heavily pleated sleeves, I just can't find it right now). 

You might want to go with this cut though:

http://simbelmyne.us/sca/court/norse-tunic-pattern.htm

The sleeve is inset into the body itself but you can easily make the sleeve wider (gather at the top, not all the way around). 

DonaCatalina

I wouldn't make the armscye any smaller. Eventually it will feel like it irritating your underarm.
I think Randwulf's pirate shirt pattern will give you the shape you are looking for.
But beware though; if you cut directly from the pattern it might be a little small with short arms. I would suggest having someone measure your chest circumference and sleeve length before you start cutting.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

LadyStitch

I have been working with some fight choreographers on how best to do period shirts that look cool, but won't kill my actors.  What I have done is find the snuggest fit bodice/torso section shirt a i can, but go up one size to allow for more movement in the chest and back.  This keep the shirt close to the body but allows for movement.  The sleeves you don't want too full. You do NOT want a parry or blocking dagger accidentally catching a sleeve. I have a shirt in my costume cave that's blood stains are not from stage blood for that very reason.   I have been going with about 3-4" of ease in the sleeve.  This allow for a little poof, for the look and to allow air flow, but not so much that it will get in the way.  The cuffs I use to do were two inch bands with buttons.  The poof of my shirts would go over the band, and was getting in the way of some wrist movements.  I increased the size of the cuff from 2"  to 4-5".  It looks more gauntlet like but the poof stays near the elbow where it is needed, and the wrist is free from poof getting in the way.
That is my two pence from my experience.
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.