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Author Topic: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!  (Read 4525 times)

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Offline gem

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(Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« on: September 24, 2013, 07:27:17 PM »
I've decided that I need one of these for my Valkyrie. I have some nice faux fur, but I'm confused by the array of shrug tutorials I'm finding online... none of which really looks like this (they have sleeves, or they're for knits, or are otherwise just kind of off in some way). It seems like it should be crazy easy, but I'm having trouble picturing what the pattern piece/s should look like and where the seams are.





Can anyone mentally "unfold" this and make a guess as to what the general shapes would be? I've now read enough shrug tutorials to make all of them in my sleep, but none of them is quite like this enough for me to make a 100% confident guess at which one I should go with. (D@mn dyscalculia!  ;))

I think this image (from a less floofy fur) might be easier to make out the construction:


It looks like the only seams are at the underarms? So maybe it's something like this one?

Gramercy!!
« Last Edit: October 03, 2013, 08:03:37 PM by gem »

Offline isabelladangelo

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2013, 08:00:46 PM »
With the last picture, you'll see a seam line just across the top of the shoulder.   I think it's more like this pattern:

http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/the-perfect-shrug

Offline CenturiesSewing

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2013, 08:50:48 PM »
Ignore how the shoulder seams are falling in the photo, the fabric is a bit crushed still from when it arrived in the mail. They should sit on the top of the shoulder, unless you make one without shoulder seams.




Offline Rani Zemirah

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2013, 10:26:02 PM »
The... nap, I guess, (for want of a better term) of the fur in the first two photos is all running from the top to the bottom, on both the front and the back... so it would HAVE to have shoulder seams.  That means it has 3 pattern pieces.  I don't think the arm openings would be curved, as in the example that Centuries posted, because yours has a sort of cap sleeve, so it would extend past the end of the shoulder.  It doesn't look as thought it has a lot of shaping to make it look that way... it just looks to me like the seam under the arm is causing the shape. 
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Offline DonaCatalina

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2013, 04:59:01 AM »
I think Rani is correct. The basic flat shape is a circle with something like a pie wedge missing. The seam under the arms appears to be a single point of connection rather than a long seam.
So your pattern is two pieces.
You might get a small round table cloth at a thrift store and experiment with the shape.
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Offline LadyStitch

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2013, 08:22:03 AM »
My first thought was that it was based off of a raglan block. You get the drop shoulder look but keep the neck line look.  You would have shoulder and side seams to keep the nap running from top to bottom. 
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Offline gypsylakat

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2013, 10:28:17 AM »
"A kiss can be a comma, a question mark or an exclamation point.
That's basic spelling that every woman ought to know."

Offline gem

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2013, 12:34:34 PM »
Wow, thanks, everyone! I feel a lot better about not immediately visualizing this, after reading everyone's different ideas!  :)

The... fur in the first two photos is all running from the top to the bottom, on both the front and the back... so it would HAVE to have shoulder seams.  I don't think the arm openings would be curved, as in the example that Centuries posted, because yours has a sort of cap sleeve, so it would extend past the end of the shoulder.

Well, duh! Of course you're right. And I actually thought about the nap, but I think I just looked at too many things & got confused. I can totally see what you mean about the straight armscye, especially when looking at shrugs with set-in sleeves--easy to envision the armscye not scooped inward, giving a bit of cap sleeve. That's actually what's happening in this pattern.

I can also now see that the back neckline is also straight across (not curved like a typical bodice), which is what gives it that awesome poof up over the shoulders/neck.




Ok--and my first instinct was actually to take my basic bodice block (or maybe even the Saxon bodice) and just cut the pieces out of that. But, of course, there were so many "whip this up in ten minutes!!" shrug tutorials, I thought I could get away with something quicker. (Of course, if I had just sat down & done it, I'd have a fur shrug by now!)

I think it's more like this pattern:
http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/the-perfect-shrug

I saw that, and it's all over the Internet, but it's designed for knits, and it looks like getting it on is rather dependent on the stretch of the shrug fabric--which my fur has decidedly NOT.  ;)

My first thought was that it was based off of a raglan block. You get the drop shoulder look but keep the neck line look.  You would have shoulder and side seams to keep the nap running from top to bottom. 

Oooh, so like just 3 of the 4 raglan sections (leaving out the bodice front)? That's intriguing; unfortunately, I don't have a raglan block to play with! (I think I'm the only human being on Earth who finds raglan sleeves uncomfortable.)

I think Rani is correct. The basic flat shape is a circle with something like a pie wedge missing. The seam under the arms appears to be a single point of connection rather than a long seam.

Ok, Dona C, I *almost* understand that. So the half circle section would be the back, and you'd flip down the other two "flaps" of the circle, with the "pie wedge" being the front opening? So the side seams/arm holes would be the long circular curve? And the smaller the circle, the less "sleeve" you'd get? Interesting.... I think that kind of takes us back here again, but that version has a little scoop taken out of the sleevey bit.

***
Well, you guys have got my brains a'tickin', and I think I have enough to go on now. Thanks!!

Offline LadyStitch

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #8 on: September 25, 2013, 01:45:16 PM »
Making a raglan block isn't hard, sometimes they call it a kimono block.  Every time I need to do some "major" pattern drafting I reference this: http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Pattern-Cutting-Womens-Wear/dp/1405175672 book.  I can not tell you how many times that between my basic dress blocks I get from Butterick  and this book I have made things on the fly.

Some where I found an old from the mid 80's-90's pattern on different shrugs and jackets.  I can try looking for it if you want.

Another searchable term might be for vintage stole pattern.  Many times people confuse the two.  Worth a shot.

Edit: also try "fur wrap" I found several that way.  http://www.etsy.com/listing/110041441/vintage-1956-simplicity-pattern-1755-fur?ref=cat2_gallery_6
« Last Edit: September 25, 2013, 01:46:54 PM by LadyStitch »
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Offline Rani Zemirah

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Re: Help with (faux) fur shrug
« Reply #9 on: September 25, 2013, 09:48:38 PM »
Well, it sounds like you've got several good leads now, so I'm expecting to see an awesome Valkyrie fur shrug soon!  :D
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Offline gem

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update
« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2013, 03:54:13 PM »
So... I've tweaked the pattern and am *this* close (if not already to) a mockup that will work. Yay!

The only issue I'm having now is a pretty significant crease down the front of the shoulder, where the armscye would be. I know this is b/c of the cut-on cap sleevelet-thingy, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to alleviate it. I'm thinking it might be really pronounced in the fur.

Looking at the inspiration piece, you can see there's a bit of a fold where the sleeve forms from the body, but mine is way worse than that--a big ol' vertical crease all the way up the front shoulder from the bust.



***
Also, I'm wondering about seam allowances. I've drafted for 1/2", but with the fur, will that be too bulky? Not wide enough? Should I trim the fur away before or after sewing??

(How on Earth did I make this so complicated?!)

Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2013, 04:24:19 PM »
Can you treat is like a dart, and shift it to the side seam, where it'll be less noticeable?

And you'll probably need to shave the furr off the seam allowances!  Nasty job...  We bought a veterinary pet shaver for that!

Offline Rani Zemirah

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2013, 06:05:28 PM »
Maybe add a sort of... extra wedge of fur to the front and back pieces of the side seam (before cutting), with the wider end being at the top of the seam (if that makes any sense at all?) so that the "sleeve" fold is less pronounced? 

Is it possible that the fur might actually make it LESS pronounced, though, since the material is likely thicker than whatever you're using to make your mock-up, and may not fold as easily?
Rani - Fire Goddess

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Offline Elennare

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2013, 11:21:02 AM »
I know it's probably too late, but I was at the fabric store yesterday and while looking through the pattern books for something completely different, I saw Simplicity 3943.  It's a little girls pattern, but it has a shrug that looks like it's the exact shape you want.  Maybe it could be scaled up to fit an adult?
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Offline LadyStitch

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2013, 12:54:57 PM »
I just finished a bolerro and even something that doesn't cover that much of the chest required a dart. If you can move the dart to a side seam, go for it. When I have done fur I have done 1/2 seams.  And YES shave those seams to reduce bulk.  Keep in mind you will have fur EVERYWHERE For the next 3-6 months by doing so.  Lint brushes will be your friend.
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Offline Rani Zemirah

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2013, 01:08:53 PM »
Sounds like the shaving should take place out of doors, maybe?  lol
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2013, 02:12:39 PM »
Forget brushes!  Hoover the fur as you go!   ;)  And wear a dust mask!  (We face more fur-shaving escapades this coming month...   :'(   But the money will be good!)

Offline gem

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2013, 02:22:52 PM »
Thanks, all! Sounds like rotating a dart to the side seam is the way to go. :)

And, honestly, I have three big, long-haired dogs. I don't think we'll notice a little extra shedding in the sewing (aka living) room! LOL

Offline gem

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #18 on: October 03, 2013, 08:03:17 PM »
And... we have SHRUG!!



And a back view, a little wonky b/c I haven't trimmed or combed the seams yet.



I did realize, after sewing this up, as well as a microsuede lining... that I don't actually know how to line it. I'll probably leave it as is for the weekend (I think it's shedded its last, for now), but I would like it to be fully finished eventually.

Erm... help? I would normally bag line it, but beyond the little fiddly bit of closing the opening for turning it... along the fur (!), I'm not even sure how to handle the armholes (normally I turn through shoulder seams). I could just do it all by hand, turning the edges under & blind stitching... but neither fabric seems amenable to that method.

Anyone have advice before I irrevocably trim all my seams?!

Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #19 on: October 04, 2013, 04:12:43 AM »
Cut your lining with a small turning, and turn it in and whipstitch it to the raw edge of the fur.  It'll be hard work, but effective!

Offline DonaCatalina

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #20 on: October 04, 2013, 04:48:09 AM »
Cut your lining with a small turning, and turn it in and whipstitch it to the raw edge of the fur.  It'll be hard work, but effective!

Its looking good. But I think what Kate suggested is the way to go. That is the method you see with quite a few real fur pieces.
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Offline gem

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #21 on: October 04, 2013, 07:23:51 AM »
So I leave the edge of the fur unturned then? The whipstitching is the only thing finishing the fur edge?

Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #22 on: October 04, 2013, 07:44:34 AM »
No, but it's probably one of the easiest!  It won't fray or ravel, and the whipstitching is easier through the single layer of fur fabric!  You could shave the seam allowances and turn it under, but it'll leave you with a thicker lumpier edge that is much harder to sew through.

Offline Rani Zemirah

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #23 on: October 05, 2013, 01:11:49 AM »
Ooooh...pretty!  I'm afraid my "useful" suggestions are at an end, since I haven't a clue as to how to line something like that.  I AM looking forward to seeing it worn, though!  Can we get a pic if you modeling it for us, or do we have to wait for the garb shot?  :P  lol
« Last Edit: October 16, 2013, 09:06:18 AM by Rani Zemirah »
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Offline Marietta Graziella

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #24 on: October 16, 2013, 08:40:42 AM »
I got to see this piece in action on Sunday. It looks fantastic!
Nothing clever to say here.  Not enough caffine yet.

Offline Dinobabe

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--updated with PHOTOS!!
« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2013, 01:17:53 PM »
I know you already sewed... but... since it only has one seam I would line it before stitching.  Then turn the seam and stitch as you normally would.  You will have an edge on the inside but this seems like the easiest way.
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Offline DonaCatalina

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Re: (Faux) fur shrug--update with new questions
« Reply #26 on: November 08, 2013, 05:28:31 AM »
Forget brushes!  Hoover the fur as you go!   ;)  And wear a dust mask!  (We face more fur-shaving escapades this coming month...   :'(   But the money will be good!)

I still chuckle every time I read this post since I can picture the scene exactly, having been there.

Gem- you looked exotically beautiful in the completed outfit.
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