Interfacing....... HELP ME!

[Orphena]

So, I'm in the process of making some breeches for m'lord for the upcoming Pirate Fest, and since we like to pretend we are rich, they are out of SILK. Perhaps they are a poly-silk if such a thing exists, but they are scrumptious in colour. Of course, silk (yes, I'm going to be referring to it that way) has a number of challenges associated with it - for one, the pattern likes to slide right off while cutting... but secondly, it seems to be a very thin fabric for something so esseential as breeches, so I've decided to use my mockup (made out of sheeting fabric) to line these breeches. I'm using a pattern - Simplicity 4923 - (the "captain Jack" pattern), and it suggests I use interfacing on a few of the pieces.

My question is this: Should I apply the interfacing (it's one sided, and already cut) to the silk, or to the sturdier cotton that I am lining it with? Any help you can offer would be MOST appreciated so that I can understand WHY as well.

~Thanks~

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

If you are using a silk for Breeches, may I sugest underlining in a broadcloth of the same color.  Be sure to surge all seams. Silk ravels like a son of a gun.

Interfacing, such as a non-fusible type that is of a loose weave, would be best used for the waistband, legs bands, and fly front.

Any  fusible interfacing may result in buckling when the heat hits it.

[Orphena]

So..... I should apply the fusable interfacing to the cotton rather than the silk?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Use non fusible Interfacing. Even to the cotton Broadcloth. The results will be cleaner, Orphena.

[isabelladangelo]

Depending on the weight of the cotton you are lining the silk with, I really wouldn't even bother with a "middle layer" at all.   If it's a light weight cotton though, I'd take something like muslin or just get the same cotton you are using as the lining and basically double it. 

[gem]

I don't know if this is the "right" way of doing things, but I always apply interfacing to the lining fabric, rather than the fashion fabric.

But you should really only need the interfacing, like Lady K said, for things like the waistband.  (Says G, who has not interfaced her last three skirt waistbands and seems to be surviving just fine....)

[Orphena]

*G* @ Gem - you and me both, girl! I usually skip the interfacing completly.

The pants are 75% finished - I interfaced the front flaps, and the waistband. I'm glad I decided to fully line the pants - I think the cotton will take up any "strain" that I wouldn't want the silk to endure.

I cant wait to show you guys the pics - the fabric is absolutley beautiful!

[nliedel]

I've given up on interfacing too. It jujst bunches up after a while, even the sewn in kind and is a pain in the hiney.

[Orphena]

Voila:

the promised picture:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v18/ShariO/Pirate%20Fest%202008/?action=view&current=aIMG_2234.jpg

[LadyStitch]

On certain items I give up on interfacing. Honestly I prefer the sew in vs the iron in.  My rogue however has a 'thing' of sharp cuffs, center fronts, and waistbands.

He had me buy heavy weight interfacing for his new pants because he wanted to make sure they were extra sharp.  ::pinches bridge of nose::  The middle weight would be fine, but he is persistant.  He will be left with the rubbing marks, not I. Granted I get to listen to him whine about it.