Pattern for an underbust corset (Victorian/fashion)?

[gem]

I've had a piece of fabric in my stash for ages, and last night it announced--much to my surprise--that it wants to be something like this:


(This is from Venefica Corsetry, a fantastic etsy vendor, if anyone is interested!)

This is not a particular style of anything I've ever been remotely interested in before, so my pattern radar is totally off. Any suggestions? I can go either fashion/modern or historically accurate (if there even was a similar thing at any point). I have this fashion corset (lightly boned) that I wear under my Valkyrie armor, and it's actually more of a mid-bust on me (despite the photos, there is some bust shaping), so although in my mind I'm thinking underbust, something like that would work, too (and might be more flattering).

Ideas? I am pretty comfortable with any skill level of pattern.

Gramercy!!

[isabelladangelo]

Don't.  Please don't.  The underbusts never, ever look right. The only time there was anything remotely like that was as underwear in the 1910s - worn with a bra.     

Instead, why not show us the fabric and maybe there is something else it can be?

[mollymishap]

It's hard to pull off one of those underbust styles, but if you've got your heart set on one, there are a number of reproduction patterns available at https://www.agelesspatterns.com/corsets__3.htm.  Scroll down to the middle of the page, I'm thinking the "1868 Corset without Gores" looks a lot like your example.  I've bought a few of their patterns, and though they're not for the faint at heart, I think you'll rise to the challenge without a problem.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

There is the SIMPLICITY Steampunk ensemble pattern with the Bolero top that has a  nice underbust corset pattern. I made that for my eldest Granddaughter and worn with great success. I have a commission to make such a corset for a client who has back issues.

[LadyStitch]

I agree with Lady Kathleen.  I have also had good luck with that pattern. 

[Sev]

I've successfully drafted one for a friend using this tutorial, just to throw it out there as an option.

[gem]

Sev, thanks for that link! I love Katafalk's tutorials; this one is so far outside her normal range (high medieval) that I never would have thought to look there.

Is it Simplicity 1819 you guys mean? I actually have that pattern; I used it for the bolero jacket and the bustle. But there's something weird about the line of the corset--that sharp point in the top center looks really odd to me.

I'm seeing a lot of good reviews for Laughing Moon #113, and it has just the silhouette I'm looking for, and I trust them for corset patterns. They may be the winner--although I'm very intrigued by Katafalk's tutorial!

[Butch]

Sev, thank-you for the link!  I am currently designing an under bust for my daughter (but she wants a full back with straps continuing to the front).   I have made a pattern, but I'm not happy with it, and have not done the mock-up yet (MUCH to my daughter's chagrin!!).  I'm gonna use this pattern, and then mod it as necessary.

Cool!  Many thanks!

...and good luck Gem!  What fabric will you use?  I'm using a black taffeta with gold (bronze?) grosgrain ribbon accents.

[gem]

Butch, it's actually denim, with gold embroidered fleurs-de-lis. Milord bought it, and I've always assumed it would end up as a home dec project (it's been auditioned for table runners, pillows, footstools, and serger covers!), but it finally spoke up a few days ago. I've learned NOT to argue with the fabric! LOL I only have a yard, so it has to be something smallish.

[Butch]

Nice!  Are you gonna alternate it/accent it with other panels (as in your photo above)?

[gem]

That would take work!  I will probably make it (pauses for Isabella to gasp in horror and frustration) reversible, though. I found a small-scale blue/green plaid cotton in my stash last night that would make nice binding.

...Come to think of it now, I also have some denim frosted with a metallic gold finish. The blues aren't the same, though, so I'm not sure how they'd look together.

[isabelladangelo]

That would take work!  I will probably make it (pauses for Isabella to gasp in horror and frustration) reversible, though. I found a small-scale blue/green plaid cotton in my stash last night that would make nice binding.

...Come to think of it now, I also have some denim frosted with a metallic gold finish. The blues aren't the same, though, so I'm not sure how they'd look together.

It's not in horror but there is a lot of frustration.  To me, the only thing worse in the "Renn Faire" garb than an underbust corset is wearing a tank top with a tutu and declaring yourself a fairy.  (Or wearing a bikini with a coin belt as that seems to be this year's fashion faux paus)  It looks horrid on.  I have never seen an underbust corset that looked good on anyone over the age of 10.   Ever.   

At least if you make it reversible it won't last long and will end up out of your closet that much more quickly.   

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I  wore my underbust corset on Sumday at the Ren Faire and had a lot of compliments. My gzrb had more of a relaxed Pirate look with a flowy skirt, chemise with lace, sash, pouches, etc. I am 62. I was not going for an accurate look as like when I wear my Noble garb.

[Butch]

Isabella, I prefer to see the HA stuff too, but I enjoy seeing people who make some sort of effort to step out of their everyday lives and have fun!

My dau wants some steam-punky/piratey looking garb.  I offer suggestions on how to change it to make it more accurate, but she wants it as she pictures it.  That's fine!  If it makes her happy in the lanes, more power to her!  I'll make it the way she wants it.  (Even if I AM rolling my eyes!)

I can't wait to see the bikini with the coin belt!  And I'll giggle and think "Oh.  So THAT'S what Isabella was talking about.".  I remember the first time I saw a Storm Trooper in the lanes after reading about them in R/F.  I probably saw them previously, but never paid them any mind.

Tank top and tutu?  We have a GUY that wears that every year here at the KCRF!  EVERY year!

I try to be minimalist and H/A in my own garb, but this weekend is KCRF's "Shamrocks and Shenanigans" theme, and I'll be wearing my Irish Leine, a Scottish kilt (Marine Corps pattern tartan) a pair of primative Scottish brogues (home made) with a modern "wave" sole, and a flat cap (not a bonnet).  I've found kilts to be quite comfortable!  But I'll be a walking anachronism.

I can't wait to see everyone's garb in the lanes at the KCRF this year!  I think they're doing a sub-theme of pirates this year; that's only 200 years off!

I hope to meet you in person, someday, Isabella!  The photos of your work on this thread is so lovely!  I would love to see it up close just to drool over it!  And Lady Kathleen, I look forward to seeing you again; so sorry I didn't see you opening day in Shakopee.  Your garb has always looked so beautiful on you!  And you are such a fun person to talk to (a real hoot)!

Sorry to hijack this thread!

[isabelladangelo]

It's honestly not about the H/A - I have several fairy or elven gowns myself - it's about making what looks good.  There are times when I seriously consider doing a People of Walmart Renn Faire edition because of the slop people tend to wear.  And it is slop.   However, ain't nobody want to see how many spare tires anyone else has and it doesn't help that someone isn't wearing a shirt and their gut doth spilith over the top of that "kilt". 

The problem is that because it's "different" people will do anything and everything and think they look good when they don't.   This goes for muggle clothing as well.  When you just wear whatever, you look like a whatever.   If you actually attempt to wear something that fits your body and hides those faults we all have, you will look good.  However, underbusts are very rarely worn correctly and therefore accentuate the faults due to improper undergarments or other issues.   (They should be worn under the clothing, with a bra in the case of women, to give the desired silhouette of the early 20th C. )

[Butch]

"There are times when I seriously consider doing a People of Walmart Renn Faire edition..."
That would be hilarious!

I do see what you mean, and I prefer to construct and wear historical clothing as was the style at the time.  And if I see another person in the lanes that seems to be of that mind as well, I very well might strike up a conversation with them regarding their garb.

The garb I make for others, I also try to make as H/A as possible.  But sometimes the customer DOESN'T WANT spiral lacing; or they WANT big brass grommets.  Whatever.  I do what they want, because I want them to be comfortable wearing the garb.

But, on another thread, there was a discussion that came up talking about who spends the most money at these things (the Ren Faires).  The consensus was that it's more the people who come out once or twice a year, and may not stay the whole day.  People like us (here on the R/F site) go AS MUCH AS WE CAN!  And sure, like most of us, I'm quite generous with my tips, and I'll buy from vendors; but I prefer to make my own garb and accoutrements.  So, in my opinion, if someone gets some article of clothing and incorporates it into an outfit that they think is fitting (er, appropriate?), more power to them!  It sure makes the vendors happy!

Would I wear a kilt and no shirt?  HECK no!  But I've seen guys who weigh 100 or more lbs than me do just that!

And as you say, women wearing the under-bust corsets without any support?  Sometimes you wonder if they looked in the mirror before going out in public.

But, if they're comfortable, and still not showing any skin that would change a PG movie to R, I'm of the school that says "Welcome to Canterbury!".

I'm truly motivated to get the under bust done for my daughter!  I can't wait to see Gem and her family in the lanes!  She always has such marvelous pieces to show!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Here is the Underbust Corset I have that I ordered from the internet that I have worn a couple of times now. It doubles for both a Steampunk and Pirate look, depending on the added accessories...

The SIMPLICITY Underbust corset I made for my eldest Grand daughter. The center point can be altered a bit to be more rounded.


I hear you Butch and Isabella about the People of Walmart Ren Faire edition. I tend to keep my snickers to myself. At least people are making an effort to dress up, even though it's more appropriate for when there is a Day of Wrong.

[isabelladangelo]

"I hear you Butch and Isabella about the People of Walmart Ren Faire edition. I tend to keep my snickers to myself. At least people are making an effort to dress up, even though it's more appropriate for when there is a Day of Wrong."

Honestly, some of the things I saw last weekend wouldn't even work for Day of Wrong.  There really isn't enough brain bleach in the world for all the beach attire I saw.  Even some of the guys were wearing what I called Polynesian beach coverup skirts...and nothing else. 

Also, ladies, please, double check before you leave the house that your skirt/pants/blouse isn't see through.  It might not be indoors but in the sun it very well can be.  I noticed quite a few ladies showing off what color underwear they had - and what style- without realizing it.  (And there really is no good way to go up to someone and say "So I see you went with the French cut briefs in blue today!")  I remember the story of a lady who was camping at a Renn Faire and would come out every morning in her chemise, start the fire, and make a privy run.  One day, she got up a bit later, and noticed when she was reaching for something that, the way the sun was shining, you could see right through her chemise.  Horrified, she asked one of her friends why he didn't say anything.  His response?  "Oh! We thought you knew." 

[gypsylakat]

"
(And there really is no good way to go up to someone and say "So I see you went with the French cut briefs in blue today!")

I am NOT afraid to say this to someone who I think doesn't know- I did it on campus once because someone was rocking the "tights as pants" look with a t-shirt and polka dotted panties. I'd want someone to tell me- the way I figure it the conversation can only go a few ways.
1. The girl says OMG thank you and is able to correct a wardrobe malfunction (bonus: may have made a new friend)
2. The girl says Yeah, I know and goes on about her day (different strokes for different folks)
3. She says "ugh why are you looking at my butt" (bonus: I know she and I will not be good friends ever)
4. She says nothing because she's embarrassed, but has the option to go fix the wardrobe malfunction

[Rowan MacD]

"I hear you Butch and Isabella about the People of Walmart Ren Faire edition. I tend to keep my snickers to myself. At least people are making an effort to dress up, even though it's more appropriate for when there is a Day of Wrong."
Also, ladies, please, double check before you leave the house that your skirt/pants/blouse isn't see through.  It might not be indoors but in the sun it very well can be.  I noticed quite a few ladies showing off what color underwear they had - and what style- without realizing it.

Seen too frequently at faire-A short sleeved wench blouse worn too tightly-in an almost transparent bubble fabric, paired with an under bust corset/waist cincher.... and nothing else.
  Please wear a bra.  Underbust anything does not  provide any support for the bust. The saggy, spillover look is NOT provocative; particularly if the assets on display are not small and firm, or large and artificially enhanced- Even then-wear a bra.