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Organza Ruff

Started by Rowan MacD, December 29, 2014, 09:06:34 AM

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Rowan MacD

  First time making this from Organza.  I'm using a set of instructions found online-they call for horsehair stiffener (now made of nylon) but, no fabric shore here has it. 
  The closest I have found is Stitch Witchery fusible interfacing-will this work for a 2" suit of ruffs? 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
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gem

I've used both horsehair braid and StitchWitchery in different applications (not ruffs), and they're not all that similar.

Horsehair braid is like a very fine plastic needlework canvas, and StitchWitchery is like the glue-part-only of fusible interfacing. What is the application it's being called for? I'd be concerned that the horsehair braid wouldn't be comfortable near your face/neck, and that the fusible web wouldn't hold up long-term.

Hancock carries various widths of a drapery header tape that's identical to horsehair braid, but lacks the easing loops (for easing curved hems).

isabelladangelo

Normally when doing one out of of organza, it out of organza trim like I did here.   That way, it's already stiff at the edges and also won't fray everywhere.   

If you want to use the fraying kind, use buckram as the inner layer.  Buckram is period and you can get the 100% cotton kind from Joanns. http://www.joann.com/jo-ann-stores-unicorn-buckram-fabric/1491273.html 

Rowan MacD

#3
  I was at Hancock's on Sunday.  They didn't have it, or anything other than regular and fusible interfacing for stiffening lightweight fabrics like organza.   Both will show through the sheer fabric.
   Stitch Wichery also makes a fusible interfacing as well as the glue stuff-that is what I described.

   The plastic web 'horsehair' would be ideal, and that's what I was looking for; but neither of our Hancock's has a bridal section anymore-which is where it's supposed to be located.   None of the employees had a clue what I needed either.
   I did find something similar to the picture in the drapery department- but all have shirring strings.

Isabella- I like the idea of the organza trim (I think I saw some int he ribbon section).  I've made ruffs from grosgrain ribbon before-uncrushable AND washable.
  The silk organza I have is from stash; and it's a PITA to work with. Can't even cut it without pinning everything down.
  I try to avoid buckram for clothing items-It crushes and is not waterproof.

The instructions I have,  call for a number of strips of organza-cut across the fabric, selvage to selvage.  the strips are sewn together end to end.   
  60lb fishing line is used along the lengthwise fold to hold the figure 8's. The horsehair is placed just behind the pocket for the fishing line, and secured to one layer of the ruff.   The whole is then pleated and sewn to the inner collar.
  They use the 'stacked pleat' technique for gathering instead of the cartridge pleat.  Never tried that.
 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

isabelladangelo

Sounds too painful.  I'd give up and get the organza trim.  :-)

I think this is the stuff you are looking for.  You *might* be able to get the stiffness you are looking for using tulle as an inner layer but I really wouldn't recommend that.  Seriously, sometimes it's best not to use the stash just for your own sanity.  ....or you could just give up on the organza part and use linen instead.  Starch the heck out of it and you'll end up with a very nice period correct ruff. 

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

The Organza ruffs I made for the Pelican Portrait remake, I used narrow Horsehair Braid with no problems. The lace covered much of the stitching.

Most ruffs take a 3 yard strip for a 16" neck.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Rowan MacD

 Yeah, Isabella-that's the stuff. Can't seem to find it anywhere in Omaha.
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

The neck ruff on the Chemise you have from me is a few inches over 3 yards using tne stacked box pleat method to keep the figure 8s in place.

H/A ruffs involve tight cartridge pleating, heavy starching,  then using a period curling iron to get even figure 8s. High maintainence to get that correct look.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Rowan MacD

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on December 30, 2014, 09:55:33 AM
The neck ruff on the Chemise you have from me is a few inches over 3 yards using tne stacked box pleat method to keep the figure 8s in place.

H/A ruffs involve tight cartridge pleating, heavy starching,  then using a period curling iron to get even figure 8s. High maintainence to get that correct look.

I have about 15' of organza strips to work with.    Stacked pleats may be easier, and most of the vendors use that method probably because it is easier, but I really like the look of cartridge pleats.

   Having looked at the Renaissance tailor sit- what technique are they using? The well shaped figure 8's are what I'm aiming for.
   
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

isabelladangelo

It looks like they are doing the cartridge.  If you wanted to cheat a slight bit - put some millinery or floral wire at the very outer edge to shape the pleats the way you want.  You can cover those with bobbin lace. 

Rowan MacD

#10
Quote from: isabelladangelo on December 30, 2014, 12:48:46 PM
It looks like they are doing the cartridge.  If you wanted to cheat a slight bit - put some millinery or floral wire at the very outer edge to shape the pleats the way you want.  You can cover those with bobbin lace.

  I'm thinking you're right.  I would expect them to do that for those prices!

  I was wondering how they got those nicely shaped loops when it looks like they originally stacked them, then turned them carefully on end to sew them down-in effect-a pinched-flat -horizontally-at the neckline-end cartridge pleat.
   The result is a cartridge pleated look, but the ruffles are only sewn to the top edge of the edge of the collar, rather than both top and bottom. 
  I must assume the edges of the ruffles are supported with wire or something like fishing line to hold their shape.
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Rowan MacD

  Wish me luck.  I found some horsehair braid in 1" width at Joanne's, and scored some 20lb Trilene fishing line at Dick's for 75% off ($4.00 for 270 yards).  The lace I liked was $10.99 yd so I will use what I have in stash. 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#12
Over at the Elizabethan Costuming Page site, there are excellent articles on making and starching period ruffs.

On tne Elizabethan Costume Facebook page, Noel Gieleghem, is the Elizabethan  Ruff Expert. There is much about ruffs I have learned. The method I use is low maintainence that works for all the times I wear mine.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Rowan MacD

#13
 OK.  Followed all the instructions from The Renaissance Tailor demo.  So far so good.
  Organza cut, stitched end to end, fishing line sewn into a pocket channel along the lengthwise crease, and lace sewn on.  looks good.
    I bought the horsehair braid they recommended for stiffening, but when I got to the step where I was going to use it, I pinned it in place and considered that I was now going to have to sew 15 feet of mesh down to the ruff. 
  You cannot risk a sewing machine, since you have to be careful not to break any of the mesh threads by sewing over them.  This mesh is very fine. You pretty much have to hand baste it in place.
   
   I dug out a scrap of Organza and my package of Stitch Witchery adhesive bonding web.
One of it's uses is to stiffen hems, and it also glues two layers of fabric together into a moderately stiff, smooth unit.

    I sandwiched a piece of webbing between a folded bit of scrap organza and ironed it..it works like a charm. 
The fabric was smooth, stiff, and , as a bonus, the heat bonded webbing is 100% invisible through the sheer fabric.
   
     The ruffle strip was finished with stitch witchery inside of 15 minutes.  I finished the open edge and it's ready to be pleated into the collar. 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

iain robb

Rowan, is this what you used:

http://www.joann.com/stich-witchery-super-weight-2in/8579633.html#q=stitch+witchery&start=8

2 inches wide for the entire width of the ruffle, or did you just use something like this along the edge:

http://www.joann.com/dritz-stitch-witchery-fusible-web-1-4in-x-20yds/1939511.html#q=stitch+witchery&start=4

And I am assuming that would have been the outside edge, if that's what you did ...

Thanks!